It depends on what you like. If you are wanting a brand new gas saver, go with the cruze. If you liked the lesabre find a newer one. They were made until 2005 and i'm sure you can find one with low miles on it for under 10k.
Finally time to get a new car...
- Thread starter sciphi
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I'm thinking with financing being so cheap on new cars with a warranty, new is the way to go right now. My credit union's new car rates are literally less than half of their used-car rates.
With the economy crumping rapidly, waiting a few months to buy might not be such a bad option after all.
With the economy crumping rapidly, waiting a few months to buy might not be such a bad option after all.
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
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03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
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03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
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03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Just the opposite. C4C, the low amount of cars sold over the last couple of years and the tightening of the belt has caused used car prices to skyrocket. I found that buying a 2-3 year old car costs more than a new one.
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
______________________________________________
03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Just the opposite. C4C, the low amount of cars sold over the last couple of years and the tightening of the belt has caused used car prices to skyrocket. I found that buying a 2-3 year old car costs more than a new one.
Originally Posted By: nepadriver
Just an FYI, when the economy tanks, and its going to get much worse , at least every single indicator says so, gas prices will plummet and stay there for a long time. No more stimulus to fake prop up the economy. In 2008 oil went from $145 to $60, only the stimulus and Wall St rigging propped it above $70 for now, at $91. It will go back down to $60 by next summer.
In fact, the only thing people are buying in the US this summer, so far, new and used cars. Walmart foot traffic down 2.6% this year so far (Feb-June), compared to 2010 that is 82 million less shoppers in the first 5 months, and its gunna get worse!
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-08-03...-memo-says.html
Agree with the ecomony, but highly doubt oil will go down. Still way too easy to fool people now a days...
Just an FYI, when the economy tanks, and its going to get much worse , at least every single indicator says so, gas prices will plummet and stay there for a long time. No more stimulus to fake prop up the economy. In 2008 oil went from $145 to $60, only the stimulus and Wall St rigging propped it above $70 for now, at $91. It will go back down to $60 by next summer.
In fact, the only thing people are buying in the US this summer, so far, new and used cars. Walmart foot traffic down 2.6% this year so far (Feb-June), compared to 2010 that is 82 million less shoppers in the first 5 months, and its gunna get worse!
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-08-03...-memo-says.html
Agree with the ecomony, but highly doubt oil will go down. Still way too easy to fool people now a days...
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
______________________________________________
03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
At least around me, a 2-3 year old used car has 40-50k miles on it. Folks drive a lot around me for work and to get anywhere. 60-80 mile commutes are common, as is driving a long way to any substantial retail. Add in the salt and that 2-3 year old car isn't that great a deal anymore.
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
______________________________________________
03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
At least around me, a 2-3 year old used car has 40-50k miles on it. Folks drive a lot around me for work and to get anywhere. 60-80 mile commutes are common, as is driving a long way to any substantial retail. Add in the salt and that 2-3 year old car isn't that great a deal anymore.
Seems like you've taken the Buick to your max out point. Being a member here, I'm sure you'll make a wise choice.
Certainly if fuel economy is a prime consideration a Cruze makes more sense than a Regal Turbo with DI and premium fuel requirement. The normally aspirated Regal wouldn't be as bad.
Salt and sand can really do job on vehicles in your area. Engines can easily last longer than the bodies.
Certainly if fuel economy is a prime consideration a Cruze makes more sense than a Regal Turbo with DI and premium fuel requirement. The normally aspirated Regal wouldn't be as bad.
Salt and sand can really do job on vehicles in your area. Engines can easily last longer than the bodies.
I'm also thinking keep the vehicle price with TTL at or under $20k so the payments are affordable without a second thought. Unless I get a screaming deal on a Regal, something a little more down-market would be better on the wallet every month.
Buy what you want, get something you can live with for another 10 years.
A hybrid would be corssed off my list since price of oil is collapsing as we speak because of the weak economy. You will never get your money back and who wants a [censored] Prius other then those trying to make a statement LOL
I would wait until Xmas time when car sales drop and dealers are desperate to move Units off the lot. Rebates could be much higher.
A hybrid would be corssed off my list since price of oil is collapsing as we speak because of the weak economy. You will never get your money back and who wants a [censored] Prius other then those trying to make a statement LOL
I would wait until Xmas time when car sales drop and dealers are desperate to move Units off the lot. Rebates could be much higher.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
BTW....we are fortunate in this area....we don't have to deal with salted roads in the winter.
______________________________________________
03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Just the opposite. C4C, the low amount of cars sold over the last couple of years and the tightening of the belt has caused used car prices to skyrocket. I found that buying a 2-3 year old car costs more than a new one.
Maybe from a dealer (in Las Vegas)....but not from private parties in many areas.
When I purchased my Focus...it was 4 yrs old and had 57k on the OD. I paid about 60% off the new car sticker. It took me a few weeks to find the vehicle I wanted...but is well worth it.
_____________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99k
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Let someone else take the 'depreciation hit'....and look for a previously owned three year old vehicle....from a private party....with low mileage....and save about 40 to 50% (off the new car price).
With a 2nd recession hitting us....there should be a good supply of quality used vehicles out there.
BTW....we are fortunate in this area....we don't have to deal with salted roads in the winter.
______________________________________________
03'Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Just the opposite. C4C, the low amount of cars sold over the last couple of years and the tightening of the belt has caused used car prices to skyrocket. I found that buying a 2-3 year old car costs more than a new one.
Maybe from a dealer (in Las Vegas)....but not from private parties in many areas.
When I purchased my Focus...it was 4 yrs old and had 57k on the OD. I paid about 60% off the new car sticker. It took me a few weeks to find the vehicle I wanted...but is well worth it.
_____________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99k
PP 5w20 / Puro PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
Originally Posted By: VNTS
Buy what you want, get something you can live with for another 10 years.
A hybrid would be corssed off my list since price of oil is collapsing as we speak because of the weak economy. You will never get your money back and who wants a [censored] Prius other then those trying to make a statement LOL
I would wait until Xmas time when car sales drop and dealers are desperate to move Units off the lot. Rebates could be much higher.
That's the plan, wait until the last possible second before pulling the trigger. No hybrids for me, just efficient ICE powered cars. I test-drove a Prius, and couldn't stand driving it.
I've got a few months yet before my Buick will be attacked by the salt again, so it's a waiting game. Meanwhile, I'll line up the financing, start re-arranging the budget to accommodate the payment, talk with my accountant as the car will be used for both my business and my personal use, and then finally solicit offers when I'm ready to buy.
Also, it's time to bone up on negotiating so I walk out with a halfway fair deal.
Buy what you want, get something you can live with for another 10 years.
A hybrid would be corssed off my list since price of oil is collapsing as we speak because of the weak economy. You will never get your money back and who wants a [censored] Prius other then those trying to make a statement LOL
I would wait until Xmas time when car sales drop and dealers are desperate to move Units off the lot. Rebates could be much higher.
That's the plan, wait until the last possible second before pulling the trigger. No hybrids for me, just efficient ICE powered cars. I test-drove a Prius, and couldn't stand driving it.
I've got a few months yet before my Buick will be attacked by the salt again, so it's a waiting game. Meanwhile, I'll line up the financing, start re-arranging the budget to accommodate the payment, talk with my accountant as the car will be used for both my business and my personal use, and then finally solicit offers when I'm ready to buy.
Also, it's time to bone up on negotiating so I walk out with a halfway fair deal.
More reason to wait: http://www.autoblog.com/2011/08/02/analysts-predicting-big-year-end-incentives-blitz-to-salvage-yea/
If that report is true, then holding out for a couple of months could mean a far better deal. If there's cash on the hoods of Toyotas, Hondas and Nissans, then maybe the others will follow suit. I'm not in a rush, so we'll see what this holds.
If that report is true, then holding out for a couple of months could mean a far better deal. If there's cash on the hoods of Toyotas, Hondas and Nissans, then maybe the others will follow suit. I'm not in a rush, so we'll see what this holds.
good afternoon Sciphi!
i am a car dummy and a newcomer here, so you probably should not listen to me! Ha!
i am not smart enough to know what a rear pinch seam is. i do know, however, we just got rid of my son's 1998 Lesabre. first we fixed the leaking fuel line. later, all brake lines rusted and failing. two different mechanics said it was time to quit. we junked the car.
as a car dummy, i found it frustrating to get rid of a car with 75,000 original miles. i was original owner. engine ran GREAT. without prejudice, i may say my daughter's 1999 camry and wife's 2002 lexus es 300 have no rust. i did always use undercarriage wash on the lexus for winter salt. my friend was prolonging the life of his son's jeep. body actually folded in half and his son drove out into a field, unhurt. that does not sound good to me.
perhaps you would buy a certified used car?
best of luck!!
Bob
i am a car dummy and a newcomer here, so you probably should not listen to me! Ha!
i am not smart enough to know what a rear pinch seam is. i do know, however, we just got rid of my son's 1998 Lesabre. first we fixed the leaking fuel line. later, all brake lines rusted and failing. two different mechanics said it was time to quit. we junked the car.
as a car dummy, i found it frustrating to get rid of a car with 75,000 original miles. i was original owner. engine ran GREAT. without prejudice, i may say my daughter's 1999 camry and wife's 2002 lexus es 300 have no rust. i did always use undercarriage wash on the lexus for winter salt. my friend was prolonging the life of his son's jeep. body actually folded in half and his son drove out into a field, unhurt. that does not sound good to me.
perhaps you would buy a certified used car?
best of luck!!
Bob
They junked the car over failed brake lines? Sheesh, the ones on my car are pristine since they got replaced 2 years ago. If yours was in better shape aside from those lines, I might have just bought it off of you, swapped the pristine lines from mine, and called it a day.
Good to know that the Toyotas didn't rust anywhere near as badly. I'm going to test-drive a 5-speed Corolla shortly to make sure I really don't want to get one.
Thanks for the tips about certified used. I totally forgot about those!
Good to know that the Toyotas didn't rust anywhere near as badly. I'm going to test-drive a 5-speed Corolla shortly to make sure I really don't want to get one.
Thanks for the tips about certified used. I totally forgot about those!
Originally Posted By: sciphi
The other day when jacking up my Buick, one of the rear pinch seams started caving in. Considering these are massively reinforced and right near significant unibody structure, that cave-in means the structure is starting to go on this old tank. There are also many other rust spots waiting to go out on this car that have gotten progressively worse over the summer. I'm thinking it's an indication to look at a replacement before the winter salt has another chance to erode more structure.
Thoughts?
I disagree. While the pinch weld is important I don't think they put much extra in the engineering. Often it's a barely bent/ribbed stamped metal thing that disappears "up" into the floorpan.
I can't see your car from here, but I know NY has inspections. I'd drive it until it flunks. Ask your mechanic; he's seen worse.
I've had rotten rockers where the pinch weld was iffy, if even there, but the floor pan curving around to the inside of the rocker was sound. (And the outside was junk.)
There should be a mount near the official rear jacking point for the rear trailing arm. I bet if you jacked on that all would be good. This last year of car ownership can be your cheapest if you've been keeping things up so far. And yes new cars will be cheaper if you can hold out a little bit.
The other day when jacking up my Buick, one of the rear pinch seams started caving in. Considering these are massively reinforced and right near significant unibody structure, that cave-in means the structure is starting to go on this old tank. There are also many other rust spots waiting to go out on this car that have gotten progressively worse over the summer. I'm thinking it's an indication to look at a replacement before the winter salt has another chance to erode more structure.
Thoughts?
I disagree. While the pinch weld is important I don't think they put much extra in the engineering. Often it's a barely bent/ribbed stamped metal thing that disappears "up" into the floorpan.
I can't see your car from here, but I know NY has inspections. I'd drive it until it flunks. Ask your mechanic; he's seen worse.
I've had rotten rockers where the pinch weld was iffy, if even there, but the floor pan curving around to the inside of the rocker was sound. (And the outside was junk.)
There should be a mount near the official rear jacking point for the rear trailing arm. I bet if you jacked on that all would be good. This last year of car ownership can be your cheapest if you've been keeping things up so far. And yes new cars will be cheaper if you can hold out a little bit.
I'm not sure if the floor pan is still good. I did a lot of body work around there last year repairing rust, and it's looking like it's returned with a vengeance. The point where it rotted away is right beside the massive rear reinforcements.
Everything has been kept up well, and the car's been averaging 29 mpg for the past few months. Pretty much I'm going to run out the current oil change, maybe do a cheap oil change just to do one, limp the current set of almost-worn-out tires and get a new car in 3-4 months.
Everything has been kept up well, and the car's been averaging 29 mpg for the past few months. Pretty much I'm going to run out the current oil change, maybe do a cheap oil change just to do one, limp the current set of almost-worn-out tires and get a new car in 3-4 months.
So an exhaust leak cropped up today. It's not OMG loud, but is getting louder. It's getting to the point where the cost to fix all the little issues is the same as a car payment for a few months. I don't have the time I used to, and my commute for work will be getting longer this next year.
Time for me to quit this car, and get a new one. It'll make a great winter/first car for somebody who was in my shoes a few years ago, with more time to fix things.
Time for me to quit this car, and get a new one. It'll make a great winter/first car for somebody who was in my shoes a few years ago, with more time to fix things.
I suggest a new Sonata GLS 6mt. Decent power, comfortable ride and great MPG for a large car under $20k. As you know, it's hard to beat that 10/100k warranty! Same goes for the Optima with sportier styling.
I've driven a few and it would be on my shortlist if I needed to replace my Elantra for some reason.
I've driven a few and it would be on my shortlist if I needed to replace my Elantra for some reason.
Originally Posted By: milehighhyundai
I suggest a new Sonata GLS 6mt. Decent power, comfortable ride and great MPG for a large car under $20k. As you know, it's hard to beat that 10/100k warranty! Same goes for the Optima with sportier styling.
I've driven a few and it would be on my shortlist if I needed to replace my Elantra for some reason.
There aren't any of those to be had within 250 miles of me. And the local Hyundai dealers are slimeballs, so I'd rather not deal with them if possible. I've visited 3 different Hyundai dealers looking for cars, and each left a bad impression.
I suggest a new Sonata GLS 6mt. Decent power, comfortable ride and great MPG for a large car under $20k. As you know, it's hard to beat that 10/100k warranty! Same goes for the Optima with sportier styling.
I've driven a few and it would be on my shortlist if I needed to replace my Elantra for some reason.
There aren't any of those to be had within 250 miles of me. And the local Hyundai dealers are slimeballs, so I'd rather not deal with them if possible. I've visited 3 different Hyundai dealers looking for cars, and each left a bad impression.
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