This is my first post on BITOG so, HI! Like everyone else on here that claims to be an expert, I like to think I know a good bit about oil and filters and whatnot and am curious about something...
I know this may be vehicle specific so I'll be specific. I have a 1987 Nissan D21 with the 3.0l V6 and had the motor rebuilt recently. I've got just over 1500 miles on the rebuilt motor, I changed it first at 500 miles and then ran with some good 'ole GTX 10W30 dino oil that I'm fixing to change to synthetic soon. I just ran with it just to make sure the piston rings would seat properly. Guy said I could've went with synthetic off the gate and I'm a huge believer in synthetic oil, however I've seen many conflicting things about how to properly break in a motor so I said screw it and just ran with dino that I'll change after 1500 miles and switch to Supertech 5w30 full syn for my warrantied 4000 mile changes (will probably change every 3000 anyway)
What does this have to do with oil filters? OH RIGHT!
SO, the stock oil filter for this truck apparently does not have a bypass valve in it for cold starts. I'm thinking to myself, "Doesn't that make it hard to lubricate the top-end on start-up? Couldn't that bulge or tear the filter media?"
Apparently on these trucks, it relies on the oil pumps bypass built in. "Makes sense....wait, wouldn't that just dump oil back into the pan?"
After that, I started looking into other filters that would fit the truck that have a bypass valve in it like ones. I work in an oil change shop so checking to see if the gasket and filter threads match is easy.
After a bunch of digging and a final decision on the oil filter I was going to put on it, I had a question pop into my head "What if the oil pump bypass has an oil gallery that runs into the bearings and top-end anyway? That would defeat the purpose of all this"
Sooooo, that's why I'm posting here. From what I know, oil pump bypass valves will dump oil into the oil pan but, what if on this truck and other vehicles that call for a bypass-less oil filter, they thought about that and made a bypass gallery for that reason.
Might some a bit convoluted to think about all this to begin with but yet again, I suppose that's why this forum exists. I love thin oil because of pumpability and thick oil for film strength and high temp protection. I want to make sure that whatever oil I use, it's getting to everything effectively and quickly at start-up since that's where most engine wear occurs and ultimately why multi-grade oils exist to begin with.
Now with all that out of the way, I am aware of different bypass pressures and all that and already have an educated idea of what filter I will use depending on y'alls input.
On my truck in particular, if that matters, would the oil pump bypass have an additional oil gallery to bypass the filter because of the lack of one in the filter, OR, does it dump into the oil pan like my original thought and getting a filter with a bypass valve be beneficial?
I know this may be vehicle specific so I'll be specific. I have a 1987 Nissan D21 with the 3.0l V6 and had the motor rebuilt recently. I've got just over 1500 miles on the rebuilt motor, I changed it first at 500 miles and then ran with some good 'ole GTX 10W30 dino oil that I'm fixing to change to synthetic soon. I just ran with it just to make sure the piston rings would seat properly. Guy said I could've went with synthetic off the gate and I'm a huge believer in synthetic oil, however I've seen many conflicting things about how to properly break in a motor so I said screw it and just ran with dino that I'll change after 1500 miles and switch to Supertech 5w30 full syn for my warrantied 4000 mile changes (will probably change every 3000 anyway)
What does this have to do with oil filters? OH RIGHT!
SO, the stock oil filter for this truck apparently does not have a bypass valve in it for cold starts. I'm thinking to myself, "Doesn't that make it hard to lubricate the top-end on start-up? Couldn't that bulge or tear the filter media?"
Apparently on these trucks, it relies on the oil pumps bypass built in. "Makes sense....wait, wouldn't that just dump oil back into the pan?"
After that, I started looking into other filters that would fit the truck that have a bypass valve in it like ones. I work in an oil change shop so checking to see if the gasket and filter threads match is easy.
After a bunch of digging and a final decision on the oil filter I was going to put on it, I had a question pop into my head "What if the oil pump bypass has an oil gallery that runs into the bearings and top-end anyway? That would defeat the purpose of all this"
Sooooo, that's why I'm posting here. From what I know, oil pump bypass valves will dump oil into the oil pan but, what if on this truck and other vehicles that call for a bypass-less oil filter, they thought about that and made a bypass gallery for that reason.
Might some a bit convoluted to think about all this to begin with but yet again, I suppose that's why this forum exists. I love thin oil because of pumpability and thick oil for film strength and high temp protection. I want to make sure that whatever oil I use, it's getting to everything effectively and quickly at start-up since that's where most engine wear occurs and ultimately why multi-grade oils exist to begin with.
Now with all that out of the way, I am aware of different bypass pressures and all that and already have an educated idea of what filter I will use depending on y'alls input.
On my truck in particular, if that matters, would the oil pump bypass have an additional oil gallery to bypass the filter because of the lack of one in the filter, OR, does it dump into the oil pan like my original thought and getting a filter with a bypass valve be beneficial?