Filter with high capacity for engine break-in

[novadude]

Let's say I am breaking in a newly assembled engine, and I want to run a blocked bypass for the first 20 minutes of operation, so as to trap 100% of the initial debris. Which filter can trap the most stuff without getting plugged? This would be a PF25-style "short" filter for a classic SBC. No room to run the long one on this application.

Thanks.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Are you only going to run this filter for 20 min then? Why can't you use a longer filter for just the break-in? What's restricting the use of a longer filter?

You just going to let it idle and low RPM during break-in, or you revving it up good?

 

[oldhp]

Roller cam or flat tappet? How high are RPM's for this 20min period. What you don't want is high RPM/HIGH OIL PRESSURE with NO bypass. The oil pressure is going to sky rocket. With NO by-pass you wiil break something, oil pump shaft, oil pump or blow the oil filter with high RPM/oil pressure.
You would be much better off using a full synthetic oil filter that flows better than a paper one at start up and keep the bypass installed. I would use the Royal Purple 10-454, the short 1/2 qt one, for break-in and after.

 

[Jim Allen]

It's unlikely that 20 minutes would plug any filter, even during break in, unless a very poor and dirty job of assembly has been done (no insult intended, merely making a point).

Also, when I start an engine for the first time, I fill the cooling system with hot water, so the engine starts semi-warmed up. Also, don't run a really heavy oil, or a good flowing, high VI oil so that you won't have to worry about bypassing.

Along the lines of what oldhp said, a high efficiency, high flow synthetic filter will do everything you want and in combination with a high VI oil, bypassing is unlikely. Also, a syn filter has very high capacity (often double an equivalent sized cellulose or cellulose blend filter) so it would address all your concerns.

If you want to be really anal, run a bypass filtration system during the break-in.

I presume this 20 minutes will be the 3000 rpm cam break-in period.

Finally, if you followed good clean assembly procedures on engine assembly and have installed a cam break-in additive, in conjunction with a high efficiency filter (may I suggest a less expensive Fram Ultra vs the RP), I think a 20 minute OCI is a bit of overkill. That would be especially true if you installed a roller cam. But it's your wallet after all and I understand the need to pamper the new "baby." I'm not emotionally involved, so it's easy for me to be the voice of practicality ( : < )!

 

[HTSS_TR]

I hate to say this, I agree with almost everything Jim Allen said in this post and other posts in the last few years.

 

[Hyde244]

No filter will "get plugged" in 20 minutes.

Majority of filters on the market have at least 94% trapping efficiency. It is important to remember that oil carries its own trapping capacity for blow-by and combustion products, keeping contaminants away from critical components.

Do normal break-in, short OCI procedure as you would for any new engine, and you will be fine.

 

[novadude]

Thanks. It's a roller engine, so I a, probably worrying too much, as I am being very careful to keep the assembly very clean. I was just concerned about wear from rings seating, etc.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

When I used to build my SBC engines I would use a PF25 (PF454 now) for a 20 minute cam break in at 2K rpm, using SAE 30 wt. oil. I would then drain and run the engine 500 miles, drain, then use whatever oil I chose, or the buyer preferred, at 3K mile OCIs.

It's been awhile since I rebuilt/built an engine.

 

[Malo83]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I hate to say this, I agree with almost everything Jim Allen said in this post and other posts in the last few years.

Brown nosing will get you nowhere!