Filter with bypass when OEM has built-in bypass

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Is there any danger in using a filter with a built-in bypass valve, if the engine already has a bypass valve ? For instance, my boat has a 7.4 / 454 with a built-in bypass valve in the oiling system, but some filters like the M1 that seem to be direct replacements also have a bypass valve.
 
No. Many many many GM Marine BBC engines were outfitted from the Marinizer OEM with remote oil filter systems that used 1 or 2 (in the case of Pleasurecraft) PH8 oil filters (bypass in filter) and absolutely none of them suffered by it.

We just finished up a Trojan that has such, and it's going about 3000 hours on original engines. You will be fine.

What filter is spec'd for your engines?
 
The filter specced is the standard Mercruiser / Quicksilver 35-866340Q03 . But I usually use a Amsoil or Mobil 1 filter, and last year used an oversized M1-302 that has twice the internal volume. The equiv stock-size AC Delco filter would be PF454, or a M1-111, or a Fram PH30. I found some Fram Ultra XG5 which is the M1-302 equivalent for $4 each. Many installations with the older-style remote filter would require you to unbolt the filter mount if using an oversize filter, and the size was limited. I have the newer style which has the filter inverted, so it has no size restriction and the oversize filters go on just fine.

DoubleWasp- 3000 hours on a marine BBC is very good. My previous boat went 1600 hours on the original engine, but most owners are lucky to get 800-1000 hours and usually some overlooked maintenance item like exhaust manifolds ruins an engine.
 
The XG5 for sure has no internal bypass anyway. We install a ton of those on boats. Big fan of them.

The engines are 1988 Crusader 454 engines. Closed cooled including manifolds. Oversized 6" diameter heat exchangers from the factory, oil cooler, and probably lived in fresh water most of it's life. If not, it was always flushed well. Crusader has always been one of the better marinizers.
 
Every now and then I see a salt water boat for sale in FL that has a raw water cooled engine. Either they never post pics of the engine room, or the pics look horrible. Salt water and closed cooling are a must !!
 
It isn't the method of cooling that makes them look awful. It's maintenance practices. I always tell people that if they trailer, they need to rinse out the bilge with Salt-Away as well as flushing the engine. Then they need to get the bow high enough to dry the boat out.

For docked and moored boats, there is always salt water and they need to make sure the engine bay has adequate ventilation. Heat down here makes a bay a salt water sauna. We soak all new unpainted parts with Corrosion X because any bare metal will look crusty in no time at all. Try and make sure anything is painted if possible.

Got a few customers who are complete sociopaths about maintenance and their 10 year old RWC engines look like new. My challenge is that I'm ultimately telling someone, "When you get back at 1AM after drinking in the sun all day, here's a bunch of work you have to remember to do!"
 
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