Filter Recommendation with good Anti drain back

[KCJeep]

I'd be interested in hearing how that turns out for you.

One thing I've noticed about the TG over the years is it is generally regarded as a filter with some flow resistance, probably due to the media type used combined with the very high efficiency. I wonder if the high efficiency media in combination with the silicone ADBV is holding the non-pressurized oil in the filter better when the vehicle is sitting, than say a higher flow orange can with the nitrile valve.

Just a thought I've had but I don't know how to verify it one way or the other, they do work for me though and it's the only thing I've been able to think of as far as differences, since the basic construction is so similar to the orange can.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Do like all the other Honda owners here are doing; OEM and change the filter every 52nd OCI.

MC, if they make one for your engine with a silicone ADBV. That or Bosch Distance +, NAPA Platinum, or WIX Gold.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I'd be interested in hearing how that turns out for you.

One thing I've noticed about the TG over the years is it is generally regarded as a filter with some flow resistance, probably due to the media type used combined with the very high efficiency. I wonder if the high efficiency media in combination with the silicone ADBV is holding the non-pressurized oil in the filter better when the vehicle is sitting, than say a higher flow orange can with the nitrile valve.

Just a thought I've had but I don't know how to verify it one way or the other, they do work for me though and it's the only thing I've been able to think of as far as differences, since the basic construction is so similar to the orange can.

As you/I/we know, a paper end cap has little to do with ADB. Its all about the the ADBV seating on the core. If it shrinks or becomes hard, the ADB valve will become more or less effective. Example is a video of the beloved Toyota OEM filter. The eyes don't lie, on this part number its foam media, nitrite (black) ADB valve, plastic core, and no end cap. What I like about this video is the guy pulls the foam media apart with his fingers. Look at what toyota depends on for ADB. Nitrite rubber danging on a plastic core with no end caps. it debunks the paper end caps Fram myth and the "Toyota OE is the best" myth at the same time. Compared to the $2 metal end cap, metal core Vic (orange silicone adbv) Toyota knockoff in this video your eyes will be the judge.

 

[LeakySeals]

People recommend this filter all the time. They swear by it. Why? You saw the video, how is that possible? Because they are relying on brand name, an assumption that because it says "Toyota", its the best. Don't get me wrong, I'm not an OE hater. 99% of the time Toyota parts ARE the best. But not the oil filters, you dont need me to say why, your eyes can tell you. You don't need the sludge years and deposit problems to know why now. it goes back to the original conversation, design. Cheap arse oil pump = cheap arse low efficiency foam oil filter to match.

 

[MrRPM]

KCJEEP, Its weird you mention such luck with the TG. I had the exact opposite effects using the TG8A on my 4.0L jeep.
really the only problem I had was the check gauge light would pop on and beep for a second due to low oil pressure when starting it every now and then, say maybe 40% of the time. (like when installing a new dry filter and it takes a moment to fill the filter)
since recently installing an ultra XG8A i haven't had it happen since. only other difference is I ran strait 5w30 with the TG and 5qts 5w30 + 1qt 10w-40 with the ultra. I also never had this problem running P1s or any other filter running various viscositys. I did had some starting knock with a P1 a few times but with no check gauge light. I'd like to try a TG16 and see how that works. IIRC i did a few years back on Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 in summer with no issues.
idk i have a long time to think for next time with this ultra on my jeep now...

 

[GMorg]

Isn't this a thread for the oil filter section?

 

[UNC151]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Example is a video of the beloved Toyota OEM filter. The eyes don't lie, on this part number its foam media, nitrite (black) ADB valve, plastic core, and no end cap. What I like about this video is the guy pulls the foam media apart with his fingers. Look at what toyota depends on for ADB. Nitrite rubber danging on a plastic core with no end caps. it debunks the paper end caps Fram myth and the "Toyota OE is the best" myth at the same time. Compared to the $2 metal end cap, metal core Vic (orange silicone adbv) Toyota knockoff in this video your eyes will be the judge.

This filter appears to be a twin of the one on my Kawasaki Brite Force 750i. I think it is more than adequate for that application, but could be a little "thin" for a car.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
People recommend this filter all the time. They swear by it. Why? You saw the video, how is that possible? Because they are relying on brand name, an assumption that because it says "Toyota", its the best. Don't get me wrong, I'm not an OE hater. 99% of the time Toyota parts ARE the best. But not the oil filters, you dont need me to say why, your eyes can tell you. You don't need the sludge years and deposit problems to know why now. it goes back to the original conversation, design. Cheap arse oil pump = cheap arse low efficiency foam oil filter to match.


Ugh! That thing looks terrible. What is the efficiency of foam anyway? Not that it matters much with three huge gaps that will let totally unfiltered oil into the PLASTIC cage and back into the engine.

As wretched as that thing is I bet many vehicles run many many thousands of miles using them without problem.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: MrRPM
KCJEEP, Its weird you mention such luck with the TG. I had the exact opposite effects using the TG8A on my 4.0L jeep.
really the only problem I had was the check gauge light would pop on and beep for a second due to low oil pressure when starting it every now and then, say maybe 40% of the time. (like when installing a new dry filter and it takes a moment to fill the filter)
since recently installing an ultra XG8A i haven't had it happen since. only other difference is I ran strait 5w30 with the TG and 5qts 5w30 + 1qt 10w-40 with the ultra. I also never had this problem running P1s or any other filter running various viscositys. I did had some starting knock with a P1 a few times but with no check gauge light. I'd like to try a TG16 and see how that works. IIRC i did a few years back on Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 in summer with no issues.
idk i have a long time to think for next time with this ultra on my jeep now...


That is very interesting. I am doing a little secondary experiment now. My follow up is regarding can size or shape, wondering if that has anything to do with the results. I've had start up noise in every Fram 8A series I've tried (OCOD and Extended)along with a legion of other makes of 8A equivalents, but I haven't run a TG8A yet, although I have one. Best oversize 8A equivalent I've tried was the Motorcraft FL-1A.

The filters that have hit it out of the park on my Jeep have actually been Liberty filters. The Motorcraft FL-400S and the Tough Guard I used was the TG3600, an FL-400S equivalent. So is it possible something about the physical characteristics of the Liberty FL-400S filters is part of the solution???

I was running a PH8A until tonight but could hear occasional start up tick again, so I spun on a PH3600 instead. Now I'll wait and see if the 3600 orange can Liberty filter gives me any different starts or results than the big PH8A did.

You have plenty of time like you said, but I wonder how a TG3600 would work for you?