Filter for a 2008 Toyota Highlander?

[302Xplorer]

Hello to all,

I am about to change the oil in my mil's new highlander and I cannot seem to find the part # for a filter. I would prefer to use a M1 or Napa Gold, any one know these off the top of their head?

Thanks again,

Ted

 

[ThirdeYe]

Which engine? The 3.3 uses a Napa Gold 1348, not sure about the 3.5

 

[302Xplorer]

Sorry, the engine is the 3.5 L 3456 CC V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2GR-FE
Napa Gold filter # FIL 7047

Still searching for the M1, just may stick w/ the Napa Gold though...

Thanks

 

[The Critic]

I would buy a ten pack of the Genuine Toyota oil filters. You can get them for $40, shipped to your door:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CASE-OF-1...em320247572930&

 

[Cooper]

I would recommend to stay away from the Toyota OEM filters. Yes, they are cheaper, but they are made cheaper. Had one blow out recently. I use Amsoil EaO filters now. Wix, Napa Gold or Mobil1 are good too.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Cooper
I would recommend to stay away from the Toyota OEM filters. Yes, they are cheaper, but they are made cheaper. Had one blow out recently. I use Amsoil EaO filters now. Wix, Napa Gold or Mobil1 are good too.

This is a cartridge oil filter, so the problem that you experienced would not be applicable.

 

[302Xplorer]

Is there any special way I have to change out the cartrige filter? This will be my first.

 

[Gary Allan]

Undo cap. Pull out filter. Place new O rings in respective spots. Replace filter. Replace cap.

 

[302Xplorer]

In the process...

Where in the world is the filter??!!!

I've looked it over pretty well and cannot find it.

Anyone know where it may be?

Ted

 

[chad_55]

Go with the STP S9972, better filter.

The oil filter is not your typical spin-on type. It is located to the passenger side of the oil pan. There is a small plastic door (2 screws and a pivot hold it on) which covers it from view. Take the 2 screws off and the door comes off. There is a silver (aluminum) canister under it. You have to take the bolt off (square fitting) then drain the oil. Then you unscrew the aluminum canister. The paper filter element (like the old days) is inside. You will replace and O ring, the paper element and reinstall the canister. Then you install a small O ring on the bolt and torque it to spec.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: 302Xplorer
In the process...

Where in the world is the filter??!!!

I've looked it over pretty well and cannot find it.

Anyone know where it may be?

Ted

Here's a DIY guide:

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf

Go with the Toyota OEM filter. It'd be silly to go with the STP filter considering that the OEM filter is cheaper and will eliminate any potential warranty issues concerning filter quality.

 

[302Xplorer]

I figured it out.
Pretty neat system, it'll be much easier next time.
I used the Napa gold filter and M1 0w-30 w/ the green top, I guess that means it's organic.

 

[ChiTDI]

I think the cup wrench size is 64mm. Tricky to find.

 

[Cheesehead]

A pair of channel locks in the right hands is better than any of the overpriced filter wrenches.

 

[ChiTDI]

That's an aluminum canister that is being turned and it's not a throw-away part.

 

[Brett Miller]

I bought the deal Critic mentioned....hard to beat for genuine Toyota. Advance Auto sells a 65mm wrench that works perfectly. The filter is not any harder to change than a normal filter. I did not use the housing drain plug when I changed my Sienna. I just unscrewed the whole housing and let the oil run out.

 

[PT1]

I just got the wife a new Lexus ES350 with the 3.5 L 3456 CC V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2GR-FE engine as well so I assume mine is the same regimen. FWIW the factory filter element kit at my dealer is $4.80. So I will be buying mine from them so I have warranty proof with their receipts. I like the 6.4 qt sump which is better then the 5 qt in the RX330.

 

[ajchien]

Anyone know why has Toyota uses the cartride filters? It seems a bit more cumbersome to deal with than a spin-on type.

 

[Brett Miller]

I supposed to be "green" since the filter has no metal and can be burned. I think it would more "green" to use a normal filter and allow us to run a 7,500 mile/1 year oil change interval for warranty (especially with synthetic oil).

 

[Gary Allan]

I agree. It's a "movement toward green(er)" thing. Our automotive market is so big that anything that reduces environmental impact pays off big. This is why Champion gambled on the Ecore, imo, since the quick lube market (or any lube market of substance) will, if not already, have to "de-metal" their filters before disposal. The Ecore makes this a one step process.

I'm sure cartridge/element only filters will eventually reach a "good, better, best" status like spin-ons do now ..or at least for more offerings then are currently available.