Favorite Oil For 4-Cycle Spash-Oil System Engine ?
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Originally Posted By: mark pruett
The part I don't quite get is why there's no synthetic 10w30 recommendation. Seems to me that a synthetic 10w30 would have all the high-temp advantages of a synthetic 5w30, and although thicker at starting temps than the 5w30, would still be a lot thinner than 30HD. Plus, the 10w30 could potentially have less in the way of VI improvers.
I agree 10W30 synthetic is a fine choice. This is what I use currently, because I got a case of it for free and none of my cars can use it. Valvoline 10W30 VR1 Synthetic.
The part I don't quite get is why there's no synthetic 10w30 recommendation. Seems to me that a synthetic 10w30 would have all the high-temp advantages of a synthetic 5w30, and although thicker at starting temps than the 5w30, would still be a lot thinner than 30HD. Plus, the 10w30 could potentially have less in the way of VI improvers.
I agree 10W30 synthetic is a fine choice. This is what I use currently, because I got a case of it for free and none of my cars can use it. Valvoline 10W30 VR1 Synthetic.
I run whatever i have laying around. I i have Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0w-20 in the honda em400, has 75hrs on fill no oil used. Most of my.stuff sees regular 5w20.
Ken
Ken
Even though its BITOG i still can't believe we spend so much time talking about what kind of oil to use in our B&G mower. These engines haven't changed in decades and they've always reccomended a straight 30 wt oil, and how many actual oil related failures have we seen? Seriously use what ever you want. You can spend your extra dough on synthetic if you really want but the end result will be the same.
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Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
ChrisD46,
Most of the manufacturers warn (or they at least used to) that if a multi-viscosity oil is used, consumption may increase and the oil level should be checked frequently.
That only applies to conventional oil. Synthetic multi-viscosity oils tend not to consume and is actually Briggs number one oil recommendation.
You know that makes no sense right? How is a synthetic oil less prone to consumption than a dino of the same weight?
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
ChrisD46,
Most of the manufacturers warn (or they at least used to) that if a multi-viscosity oil is used, consumption may increase and the oil level should be checked frequently.
That only applies to conventional oil. Synthetic multi-viscosity oils tend not to consume and is actually Briggs number one oil recommendation.
You know that makes no sense right? How is a synthetic oil less prone to consumption than a dino of the same weight?
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
JR : Don't you think 5W20 would not have the higher end temp protection you need for air cooled OPE ?
I wouldn't think so, though I've poured some type F transmission fluid in the old curb find B&S when it was low... Yeah it eventually blew up but due to a broken rod cap, not something I'd blame on the oil... Except for the nicks and dings from flying parts, all the bearing surfaces looked fine...
I've measured temps of over 280F at the small valve cover on the side of more than one B&S flathead... Head temp is often around 325F but of course there is no oil circulating in this area...
JR : Don't you think 5W20 would not have the higher end temp protection you need for air cooled OPE ?
I wouldn't think so, though I've poured some type F transmission fluid in the old curb find B&S when it was low... Yeah it eventually blew up but due to a broken rod cap, not something I'd blame on the oil... Except for the nicks and dings from flying parts, all the bearing surfaces looked fine...
I've measured temps of over 280F at the small valve cover on the side of more than one B&S flathead... Head temp is often around 325F but of course there is no oil circulating in this area...
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