Failed transmission removal. What did I miss?

[chorty]

agreed.

When i converted my 3500 silverado from a 454 big block/700R4 to a 383 stroker with a NV4500, i used a flywheel i found in a junk yard laying in the dirt. Knocked off the sand with a wire brush, and used it as is.

Guess it was warped a bit. Teasing granny gear with 25,000#'s behind me i feel quite a tight spot in the clutch/flywheel. Makes the truck frame tweak and twist as i get rolling. I built the nv4500 with 7.71 granny, and i'm rolling on 4.12' finals on 235/85 16's. It's not a grocery getter. I can make Michigan U-turns in overdrive

Oh well, that was 15 years ago, and 250,000 brutal miles ago. Just hauled in some iron yesterday with it.

OP just needs to put in new OEM stuff and mentally relax.

 

[D60]

I live in Italy, where most cars have a manual transmission. Usually, the flywheel isn’t resurfaced; it practically never fails if it is not dual mass. Rear main seal replace it if you want peace of mind.
The bearing is included in the kit, so obviously you replace it.

It's always nice to hear how things are done in other parts of the world (well, except for Canada, because, well, Canada ). Similarly, we tend to always replace or turn brake rotors but others here have said in the EU and UK pad slaps are common.

I don't know what parts are like in Italy but here it's not difficult to find kits that just include a new flywheel for really not that much more cost. That almost makes the choice harder because it's quite easy to just have a flywheel included and bolt it on (vs finding a place to surface it and waiting, and potentially two trips to drop it and pick it up). And then, once you've unbolted the flywheel the RMS is staring you in the face, so do you disturb it if it's not leaking......

Decisions decisions

I'm doing a 5.9 Cummins right now so not only do I get to do the RMS but also the oddball "freeze plug" that seals the cam

 

[Bailes1992]

I live in Italy, where most cars have a manual transmission. Usually, the flywheel isn’t resurfaced; it practically never fails if it is not dual mass. Rear main seal replace it if you want peace of mind.
The bearing is included in the kit, so obviously you replace it.

I was just about to say this myself.

I did recently replace the flywheel on my mothers MG3 because it had visible scoring marks, but generally we just throw a new clutch plate in there and carry on.

We pad-slap A LOT too!

 

[chorty]

Most of my pad slaps require grinding off the edge of the rotor so I can even get the caliper off.

Does that count as turning the rotor?

 

[Bailes1992]

Most of my pad slaps require grinding off the edge of the rotor so I can even get the caliper off.

Does that count as turning the rotor?

Really? Just shove a big screwdriver in the inspection hole in the side of the calliper and push the piston in a bit.

 

[chorty]

Yeah. Its a huge ridge. I just knock the edge off.

Makes reassembly easier too

 

[Bailes1992]

Yeah. Its a huge ridge. I just knock the edge off.

Makes reassembly easier too

If you're lip is that big then it stands to reason that the discs are below their minimum thickness.

I'm all for pad slapping, as long as the disc remains above it's minimum thickness and is still true.

 

[chorty]

Never measured them.

Knock off the ridge and new pads.

If it makes it to another set of pads, new rotor. If the pads last, I promise they're warped by then, and still a new rotor. The thinner they are, the quicker they warp!!

Win/win. Send it!!!!

Yes, I've done used pads on new rotors. Don't care. They'll buff out.

 

[Chris142]

The bearing is included in the kit, so obviously you replace it.

That's what failed on both of my cars. The actual clutches were still good.

 

[chorty]

I'm 42 and have owned and registered probably 50-60 vehicles.

I have a different....'taste'.....for vehicle maintenance.

And the scrap yard never complains or low balls me. They always pay, every time. No questions or conversation.

And the best part, they never ever ask me if its been maintained.

 

[Kurtatron]

That's what failed on both of my cars. The actual clutches were still good.

This car does not have a pilot bearing.

I know it will be hard to believe, but I checked Toyota parts diagram over and over again.

Aisin kit didn’t include one, and the car didn’t have one when I opened it up.

Crazy, but I guess if it works, it works. I’ve seen a YouTube video of this transmission with 400k miles, so it doesn’t seem to be a limiting factor.

 

[chorty]

This car does not have a pilot bearing.

I know it will be hard to believe, but I checked Toyota parts diagram over and over again.

Aisin kit didn’t include one, and the car didn’t have one when I opened it up.

Crazy, but I guess if it works, it works. I’ve seen a YouTube video of this transmission with 400k miles, so it doesn’t seem to be a limiting factor.

Most shorties don't.

But more reason to check that input shaft play.

No flywheel pilot means more faith on the input bearing. Helpfully its a tapered cone and not a throw away roller

Edit.

Check that gearbox. If you need to split it and replace the input bearing do it. Probably just some roll pins and a 6pk of beer. You'll feel better if it needs it when your throwing that shifter and loading that throw out bearing to release that pressure plate.

 

[Fabulous50s]

Many FWD transaxles don't use a pilot bearing/bushing.

 

[Kurtatron]

Took me ALL DAY. I finally got the Transmission to connect to the engine block. I am no pro that’s for sure. Getting the alignment right and the splines to connect handled me for four hours.

Once I bolted the transmission, I immediately attached the slave cylinder to see the pedal difference. Pedal effort is substantially reduced.

45lbs to 25lbs.

I’m not done but I am exhausted for the day. the rest of the steps are easy from here.

 

[supton]

I know pedal effort went way down when I did a DMF to SMF swap on my Jetta. I could not believe how much easier was. But I don't think anything was worn? I mean, the disc was in great shape, and my mechanic said he'd reuse it without thinking about it, it had that much left on it (only 250k), only got replaced because the SMF had a different disc. Didn't measure the effort though, and I wouldn't have done it if VW hadn't elected to use a problematic DMF in the first place.

 

[supton]

If you're lip is that big then it stands to reason that the discs are below their minimum thickness.

I'm all for pad slapping, as long as the disc remains above it's minimum thickness and is still true.

Might not be from wear. I've seen rotors grow thicker due to rust jacking. And I recall one time knocking the rust off so that we could it all back together on one car, back when we lived in Maine (very salty roads).

But I have never measured... I should have, just tossed a pair that was kaput. I'm fine with pad slapping but these had huge splotches of rust pitting, and were wearing pads really funny, and acted like the front brakes were inactive. Might have had enough meat to turn, but I'm not sure who does that anymore, and I needed it back on the road sooner than later.

 

[Kurtatron]

Here’s the old vs new thickness.

 

[brages]

I've only done one FWD clutch (probably won't do another, lol!) and to get the transmission in place, my brother-in-law muscled it into position while I put a couple bolts in... pretty quick and (for me) easy!

 

[Kurtatron]

Clutch job is finished! Clutch is much lighter, no chatter, smooth as baby’s butt. But unfortunately I destroyed an ABS sensor in the process. I undid hard mounts on the ABS, but I guess that wasn’t enough to protect them during the Axle install.

But abs replacement is a cake walk compared to clutch.

The Scion is back in business.