failed CA emissions test :(

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1988 88 Dodge Colt 1.5L 4cyl (Sedan, Hatchback, & S.W.) Exhaust Manifold
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Teambeech - still on CA emission extensions?
Update when you're in a CA smog station again.

I always figured if I got 4-6 months extensions
on beater my cost was maybe $200 a month even if I failed smog and junked it. Mine passed.
 
update

Im taking the car in to a Gold Shield Station this Monday. The guy over the phone told me theyd run a normal smog check on it and then go from there since I have already replaced a lot of parts myself.

In the last 3000 miles I've put on this car, I've replaced or done:

-PCV Valve
-Cat
-Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor
-All Filters (Oil, Air, Fuel, Crankcase)
-o2 Sensor
-Two Oil changes (currently has Trop Artic 10w30 Semi Synth. Thinking of putting in Delo 400. Would the Delo 400 hurt my emissions? I figure since its thicker, it may have a harder time passing through worn rings)
-Seafoamed it for carbon buildup and ran a can through the fuel tank
-Found a good exhaust sealant from Napa and sealed up crack in exhaust manifold

I read that a faulty thermostat can also raise HCs a bit. Might change that out too just in case since its only $30.

thanks folks
 
I'd use delo if you have consumption of oil
in the 1 gt per 500 mi range otherwise I thought you have raw gas to be so high since the oil consumption ought to hurt idle and speed tests but you're failing just idle. For the same reason I'd probably quess it's a good thermostat as that also cause HC in both tests.

Good luck. And get an extension if you fail to either fix it or run it some more months to make it pay even if your done fixing. If you fail this one you choice probably a junkyard carb or rebuilt yours.
 
well it passed with flying colors! ran into one prob though. the tech workin on the car said the timing was off. Told me it was at 22 degrees when it shoulda been at 5. Gave him the go ahead to adjust it.

Near the end of my 70 mile drive home, the engine starts misfiring. I pull over to find that the distributor cap isnt even on right. I unplug the negative cable from the battery and pull off the cap. The rotor is all black and beat up and two of the wires are practically melted into the cap. Thank goodness I kept the stock parts in the trunk. Put them on and the car started up just fine and the drive home was problem free. I dunno what that tech did when he was adjusting my timing, but apparently he wasnt paying much attention to putting my cap back on. Im just happy it passed smog!

thank you again to everyone who took their time to help me with my smog problem! i truly appreciate it!!!
 
so by how much did it pass, given all of your efforts??? This was a very interesting thread to read!!!!

Congrats!

JMH
 
quote:

Originally posted by JHZR2:
so by how much did it pass, given all of your efforts??? This was a very interesting thread to read!!!!

Congrats!

JMH


thanks! the o2, co2, and co numbers were almost the same as the first results, but the HCs at idle went from 282 to 54. at 2500 RPM, the HCs went from 94 to 43.
 
Apply for the California program to assist you in getting your car past the smog test. Once you are accepted, I think it's a couple of hundred dollars you pay and the State pays the rest. You have to go to a shop that is registered for the program and what ever amont over is paid to the shop by the State.
 
Hey teambeechstreet! Congratulations on a job well done. You really kept plugging away, and it payed off. I'm glad too see another good car saved from the scrap heap.

That exhaust manifold leak sealant must be pretty good stuff. Do you happen to recall the name of the product? It really saved the day. Keep an eye on the crack, though. If you ever develop drivability problems or reduced fuel economy, that crack would be one place to recheck.

You got that baby running just in the nick of time, with gas topping three bucks a gallon!
smile.gif
 
thanks vizvo. the exhaust sealant is by VersaChem and its called "Exhaust system joint and crack sealer". I purchased it at Napa. Its a 5oz tube. Part No. is 00160. It was only $2.49. Stuff works great. Also sealed up a big leak just before the cat on my dad's old truck. only takes about 2 hours to set hard.

unfortunately i was under the colt this morning and noticed the driver side outter CV boot is completely torn in half and all of the grease is gone. Another headache to deal with.
 
1)Run two bottles of Redline Si-1 through the gas.

2)Remove plugs and soak pistons with B-12 Chemtool or like solvent over night.

3)Use a really thicker oil like Delo 15W40 or Kendell SAE 50 or 60. I would change the oil after about 3-4 of driveing on what is currently in it.

You might try useing Golden Eagle or Amsoil engine flush for 15 minutes at fast idle right before you change it next time before the test!

Since we have no idea how MMO effects emission testing I would leave it alone as far as the fuel tank is concerned.
 
Hello!!!

MMO is a Mineral oil/solvent you just failed your test due to using this crap.

It is a light OIL it WILL raise HC duh!

It is a mineral oil it is crap do not use, run through a tank of gas DO not ADD anything and you MAY pass.
Do not use MMO it is junk.
Seafoam see above oil and solvent same deal.

If you want to add anything add 4-6 ounces of ACETONE to a CLEAN tank of gas or nothing.

bruce
 
Bruce381 writes:

quote:

It is a mineral oil it is crap do not use . . . Do not use MMO it is junk. Seafoam see above oil and solvent same deal."

Hey, that is a an overly broad and sweeping statement which could be misleading. If you are saying that MMO and SeaFoam are not miracle instant cures for emissions problems, that dumping a bottle in your tank while waiting in the emissions inspection line won't win you a pass -- then I agree.

However, you are flat out wrong if you think MMO, SeaFoam and GM T.E.C. don't have a role in solving emissions problems.

Clean combustion chambers and valve train are critical to keeping a vehicle within its design specs so that it can meet its emissions target. This is especially important on late model vehicles.

With the increasing emphasis on reducing NOX emissions, a clean combustion chamber is a must. Brute force methods of NOX reduction like EGR systems are used less and less. Extensive use of computer simulations have led to more elegant solutions such as precise control of valve overlap and exacting attention to combustion chamber geometries. Carbon buildup and valve deposits can upset the engine designer's applecart.

Combustion chamber deposits raise compression ratios and increase combustion chamber temperatures causing more NOX emissions. Sticking valves and valves which don't seal properly, can skew the valve overlap. HC emissions are affected as well by dirty exhaust valves which don't seal properly, causing fuel vapor to leak into the exhaust during the compression stroke. Carbon in the combustion chamber is a culprit in raising HC levels, as it absorbs raw fuel vapor and releases it into the
exhaust stream without burning.

The engine designers calculate combustion chamber geometries into their emissions equations. That is why the wedge shaped combustion chamber is becoming a thing of the past, with pent-roof and hemi designs coming into increasing favor. Contrary to what some may think, it is not marketing which is responsible for the deign changes. Combustion chambers with good cross-flow and clean designs which won't favor carbon buildup are the preferred way to go. Low surface to volume ratios keep raw fuel from clinging to the the walls and allow for more complete combustion. And one of the motivating factors behind interference design overhead cam engines is so that the valve cutouts on the pistons can be reduced or eliminated, which means one less place for carbon and raw HC to collect.

Short of a tear-down and rebuild, chemical tools like SeaFoam, GM T.E.C. and MMO can help maintain an engine in its original design territory. SeaFoam and GM T.E.C. fed through a vacuum hose can blast away years of combustion chamber deposits in a few minutes. MMO in the tank has been proven and demonstrated here by BITOG participants (with photographic documentation) to clean the inside of old dirty heads to sparkling condition. Techron in the tank is also known to work quite well, but at a more gentle pace.

And for the record, if SeaFoam and its cousins are described as merely "oil", one might as well refer to gasoline as "oil". SeaFoam, T.E.C., and MMO are volatile light oils with a flash point about halfway between gasoline and engine oil. It is more accurate to think of these additives as Naphtha-like solvents. Putting these in your gas tank will not raise HC emissions. Your gas tank is already full of HC, and the combustion process is under closed loop computer control which easily compensates for any slight change in chemistry. A pint of MMO or SeaFoam in a full tank of gas is no cause for concern.

Sorry to be somewhat long winded in covering these points. But the discussion of emissions on public forums is loaded with folklore and and misleading advice. Part of the problem is that much of the emissions test equipment is too expensive and impractical for the average driveway mechanic. Also there is a lack of popular literature which truly explains the working of emissions systems. So much wrong advice leads to unnecessary parts swapping in an attempt to shotgun the problem. The real key to keeping a vehicle emissions compliant is to maintain the system as close to the original design specs as possible.

In the case of teambeechstreet's 1986 Colt, he did the right thing by restoring his emissions subsystems to their original design specs as best he could. The use of chemical cleaning aids was one part of his many pronged approach. He used these products the way they were intended, and wasn't looking for some instant miracle fix. His efforts payed off nicely. Now he has an emissions clean, fuel efficient daily driver without any car payments in sight.
 
""Hey, that is a an overly broad and sweeping statement which could be misleading. If you are saying that MMO and SeaFoam are not miracle instant cures for emissions problems, that dumping a bottle in your tank while waiting in the emissions inspection line won't win you a pass -- then I agree."""


We agree here BUT
MMO and seafoam do have MINERAL oil in them as well as a solvents I do not and have any proof that they clean anything.

That said I think If you want to use anything just go buy a gallon of Acetone and use that IT will desolve gunk. and at a lower PRICE.

""However, you are flat out wrong if you think MMO, SeaFoam and GM T.E.C. don't have a role in solving emissions problems.""

Prove it how does burning 4-8 ounces of mineral oil/mineral spirts do anything other than get you a air pollution ticket when you dump this crap into the carb/air inlet??

Use it if you want its snake oil look at the MSDS sheet.

All I was saying is that burning a bottle of this stuff WILL raise the HC since it is a mineral oil.
bruce
 
so I'm kinda tripping out because these last two tanks of gas have only gotten me 25mpg! thats about 10mpg down from what I was averaging before taking it in the 2nd time for the emissions testing. I wonder if the timing being set from 22 degrees to the factory setting of 5 degrees has anything to do with it?
 
teambeechstreet writes:
quote:

". . . only gotten me 25mpg! thats about 10mpg down from what I was averaging before taking it in the 2nd time for the emissions testing. I wonder if the timing being set from 22 degrees to the factory setting of 5 degrees has anything to do with it?"

Yes, 5 degrees before TDC is absurdly retarded. I have my doubts about that emissions guy who fiddled with your timing. He claimed base timing was initially at 22 degrees. I suspect that he might not have disabled timing advance before checking it. If base timing really was set to 22 degrees, it seems to me that you would have noticed some pinging or knocking.

You are right about your fuel economy and timing. My advice would be to initially set base timing at 10 or 12 degrees before TDC. That is a reasonable starting point. See how that works out for you. If that doesn't do the trick, you can later reset it for even more advance till you hit the "sweet spot" for fuel economy (without causing other problems). It won't affect emissions much, except maybe a bit of increase in NOX and maybe slightly higher CO, but you are already have very low CO anyway. And your emissions report wasn't concerned with NOX, even at 22 degrees advance. There is a lot of margin available to you.

The only caveat is to make sure you understand the shop manual procedure for setting timing. You will have to disable any automatic spark advance mechanism. On domestic 4 cylinder carbureted Chrysler products of that era you would unplug the vacuum line leading to the spark control computer, usually located on the left fender. But because your car is an import, all bets are off. So double check for the correct procedure (and don't forget to re-enable automatic advance when you're done!). Good luck.
 
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