Factory Fill 8,900 miles(14,300 km) 2010 Honda Fit

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I agree with your comment on Honda engines.

But I also think it's false economy to use a cheap dino in these engines. Use the lightest most fuel efficient oil you can get your hands on. The fuel savings alone more than makes up for the slightly higher oil cost plus you've maximizing the engines power, a benefit I particularly like. This is after all a motor oil forum.
I'd also forgo UOA's unless you're doing it for entertainment purposes.
 
Quote:
What part of the "best 20wt value and cheapest 0W-20" didn't you understand?


No need to get defensive, bud. I was expounding on your statement with my opinion, not being contadictory. To each his/her own. With the UOA that are popping up on these motors, I don't see any reason, longevity-wise, to use anything more than a cheapER dino oil, like maybe PYB for instance.

Quote:
But I also think it's false economy to use a cheap dino in these engines. Use the lightest most fuel efficient oil you can get your hands on. The fuel savings alone more than makes up for the slightly higher oil cost plus you've maximizing the engines power, a benefit I particularly like. This is after all a motor oil forum.
I'd also forgo UOA's unless you're doing it for entertainment purposes.


For me, I wouldn't see the benefit. Even in my turbo Subie I can't be talked into running the most expensive synthetics. It's just not worth it to me, at my OCI. It all comes down to what gives us peace of mind more-so than actual power or fuel economy benefits, IMO.

This is a motor oil forum, so please be aware that we'll all have differing opinions. We've also go a tool that most non-oil-nerds wouldn't even think to use, UOA. If you want validate the us a certain oil past OEM-recommnded intervals, then it's the only way. If you want to stick with an OEM interval or MM, then use what's been proven to work. If you want to use something better, then go for it, but there's no right or wrong answer, just what makes you happy as an owner.
 
I think synthetic doesn't make your engine last longer or increase mpg..

I didn't start using synthetic until 185,000 miles. My car is still drive like new. no problem with the engine or other.

regular dino oil. best mpg was 33.0 and 33.4
synthetic oil. best mpg 33.5

As long as you follow the correct weight for your car, you will be fine.. regular dino will do the job..
 
who produces TOYOTA and HONDA oils available at the dealers' parts department ? Impressive results . Thanks and happy motorin' with your FIT .
 
I should of mentioned the bottled oil labeled HONDA and TOYOTA at the parts department on display and for sale .
 
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I think synthetic doesn't make your engine last longer or increase mpg..

I didn't start using synthetic until 185,000 miles. My car is still drive like new. no problem with the engine or other.


Sure... I have the mentality that dino protect just as well due to it can create a protective layer(varish)!!
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

"You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink"


I have no idea what you're talking about. Discussion is good; no need for out-of-context, trite quotes.

Originally Posted By: Carzzz
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I think synthetic doesn't make your engine last longer or increase mpg..

I didn't start using synthetic until 185,000 miles. My car is still drive like new. no problem with the engine or other.


Sure... I have the mentality that dino protect just as well due to it can create a protective layer(varish)!!


Varnish on covers and non-bearing surfaces won't affect the oiling system's performance.
 
To bring this back into focus for the OP...

garthg: Kudos on your courage to "let-er-run" on the OLM. I can image that you had one eye nervously glued to it watching it count down. In your case at least, you proved the Honda algorithm worked with the FF. This may well be the best of the long FF tests I've seen.

Be interesting to see how the PP stacks up to the FF ( I presume to will UOA this batch and the next for calibration at least).
 
Originally Posted By: odie
who produces TOYOTA and HONDA oils available at the dealers' parts department ? Impressive results . Thanks and happy motorin' with your FIT .


The Honda Brand 0W-20 is made by Idemitsu at their plant in Indiana.

The Toyota Brand 0W-20 is provided by two suppliers; the Nippon Oil company which has a plant in Alabama for the US and Canada and Mobil for the US only.
For the US Toyota and Lexus dealers, the easiest way to tell if it's Nippon Oil or Mobil is that the Nippon oil bottle is red.
It's too early to say conclusively, but the Nippon Oil supplied product appears more shear resistant.
 
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I think synthetic doesn't make your engine last longer or increase mpg..

I didn't start using synthetic until 185,000 miles. My car is still drive like new. no problem with the engine or other.

regular dino oil. best mpg was 33.0 and 33.4
synthetic oil. best mpg 33.5

As long as you follow the correct weight for your car, you will be fine.. regular dino will do the job..


That's a sweeping statement.

If you're talking about most GP III synthetics like Castrol Syntec I would generally agree with you. It would be more accurate to say, just being synthetic does not necessarily make an oil more fuel efficient.
But I believe an advantage can be had with some more advanced formulations that may use GP IV & V base oils and some synthetics use more advanced add' pac's.
Red Line for example claim 1 to 2 percent more fuel economy and power with their POE containing oils.

One thing that is certain, all things being equal, the lower the viscosity the higher the fuel economy. At operating temps the lower the HTHS vis the higher the fuel economy.

And ultra high VI oils (which by def'n can only be synthetic) with their very low start-up temps are maximizing fuel efficiency. The Toyota and Honda 0W-20's would fall into this category.
 
Thanks for the input on the suppliers of HONDA and TOYOTA / LEXUS motor oils . May pick up some TOYOTA 5w-30 conventional oil . Hopefully made by NIPPON . They have it for $3.49 a quart . Not so bad .
 
I think we were talking about the 0W-20 oils only. The other grades (5W-30, 10W-30, etc) may be bottled by others, and aren't necessarily as robust as the 0W-20 oils. That's clearly evident by the price ($2.50/qt vs. $5-6/quart).

To your other question, about the color of the bottle, the entire bottle is red...the bottle itself. It's a red-tinted plastic bottle. The ExxonMobil bottles are a "normal" black-tinted plastic bottle.

Posted from another thread here:

IMG_5206.jpg


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1879081/
 
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