Factory Fill 8,900 miles(14,300 km) 2010 Honda Fit

[garthg]

This is the UOA for the first oil change on this car.

Oil: Factory fill over 6 months (winter to late spring), no top up oil (oil level didn't drop at all during break in)
Oil Filter: Factory filter, with magnet on filter
Air Filter: Factory filter
Vehicle: 2010 Honda Fit, 8,900 miles (14,300 km) on car and oil -- first oil change
Maintenance Minder: indicated 15% oil life remaining. This the farthest I've ever driven a car on break in oil, and I think farther than I've ever driven a car without changing the oil. I did this because the Honda manual's recommendation for break in specifically indicates not to change the oil until the maintenance minder indicates the need.

I bought the car new in the dead of winter (January). I'd say about an 80/20 split of highway / city driving. Prior to the oil change, lots of stop and go driving.

Analysis was done by Toromont Caterpillar ($CDN 20 including tax and shipping).

Iron 22
Chrome 0
Moly 611
Aluminum 13
Copper 7
Lead 0
Tin 3
Titanium 0
Nickel 0
Silver 0
Silicon 58
Sodium 12
Potassium 4
Zinc 673
Magnesium 8
Phosphorus 657
Barium 4

Soot UFM # 0
Sulfur UFM # 34
Oxidation UFM # 31
Nitrates UFM # 15

Viscosity cSt at 100C 6.63
TBN 4.0
TAN 1.4

Antifreeze negligible
Fuel Dilution positive
Water negligible

Toromont indicated "caution" levels on the Aluminum and Silicon numbers. I'm not surprised at the Aluminum given this was break in, and as I understand it Silicon might show high on break in due to the sand casting of some of the parts.

I phoned Toromont regarding the positive indication for Fuel Dilution. They indicated they should have put "not applicable", as the flash point test they conduct is for > 4% diesel fuel dilution. Diesel has a much higher flash point than gasoline, so the test can indicate false positives for a gas engine.

I'm now running Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and a Bosch 3323 filter, and will likely do a UOA on my next oil change.


Comments?

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted By: garthg
Oil: Factory fill over 6 months (winter to late spring),

Vehicle: 2010 Honda Fit, 8,900 miles (14,300 km) on car and oil -- first oil change

Toromont indicated "caution" levels on the Aluminum and Silicon numbers. I'm not surprised at the Aluminum given this was break in, and as I understand it Silicon might show high on break in due to the sand casting of some of the parts.


The #s look more than just fine for a FF (or almost any fill...except for the silicon) given that the OCI was almost 9k miles and through a winter.

But I just wonder why you aren't using Honda's 0W20?

 

[SuperDave456]

Holy Moly Batman!
Looking good with that Moly.

I've been interested in Honda Fit's since my Brother and his wife drove one and had nothing but good reviews.

I'm interested in how long your next interval is and how the UOA looks. This UOA looks good, you had lots of TBN left, but your wear metals were getting up there, a good break in UOA.

Thanks for posting this. I am finding tiny cars more interesting every day.

 

[garthg]

Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: garthg
Oil: Factory fill over 6 months (winter to late spring),

Vehicle: 2010 Honda Fit, 8,900 miles (14,300 km) on car and oil -- first oil change

Toromont indicated "caution" levels on the Aluminum and Silicon numbers. I'm not surprised at the Aluminum given this was break in, and as I understand it Silicon might show high on break in due to the sand casting of some of the parts.


The #s look more than just fine for a FF (or almost any fill...except for the silicon) given that the OCI was almost 9k miles and through a winter.

But I just wonder why you aren't using Honda's 0W20?


I considered Honda 0w20, but as far as I understand it, Honda has yet to retroactively recommend it for the Fit. The factory recommendation is still 5w20. Also, I was interested in giving PP a try, and it is easily available at Walmart in Canada

 

[Finklejag]

I see no problems with this FF. Where is the calcium?

 

[Sayjac]

No calcium at all? Does lend credence to high moly count in Honda ff. Wouldn't be concerned about the Al or Silicon or fuel dilution during this break in UOA. Fuel dilution (by definition) seems to be appearing in many of the Honda UOA's.

It does make me wonder some about Honda's breakin recommendation/procedure. Their thinking, allowing ff moly to stay in sump more important than dumping breakin wear metals early. Seems a bit inconsistent to me, but I'm no Honda engineer, nor do I play one on TV. So it's JMO.

fwiw, I dumped the ff sump on my 3.0L Accord at 4500 mi/7months. This UOA does make me want to send in my latest sample to Blackstone. Thanks for posting.

 

[garthg]

Originally Posted By: Finklejag
I see no problems with this FF. Where is the calcium?


I've listed all the items Toromont tests for. They don't do calcium

 

[addyguy]

Toromont doesn't yet yest for Clcium of Boron. I've e-mailed them and they confirmed this.

Still, for $20 total for a kit, I'll take what I can get - I'm not paying $30-40 for another kit for two more elements!

Plus, for $20, they DO test viscosity and TBN on request.

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Plus, for $20, they DO test viscosity and TBN on request.


I am being greedy but it would be nice if Toromont would test visc. at the 40C temp.

But for sure overall a good price for us in Canada.

 

[gathermewool]

Looks good to me. How much is the Toyota 0W-20/qt? I don't see any reason to spend extra money on oil for these motors, following the maintenance minder.

My ex has a '10 Fit S, and I'm recommending she replace the FF at 15% left on the MM. If I do the change, it'll most likely get what ever's on sale, not to exceed PP.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: garthg
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: garthg
Oil: Factory fill over 6 months (winter to late spring),

Vehicle: 2010 Honda Fit, 8,900 miles (14,300 km) on car and oil -- first oil change

Toromont indicated "caution" levels on the Aluminum and Silicon numbers. I'm not surprised at the Aluminum given this was break in, and as I understand it Silicon might show high on break in due to the sand casting of some of the parts.


The #s look more than just fine for a FF (or almost any fill...except for the silicon) given that the OCI was almost 9k miles and through a winter.

But I just wonder why you aren't using Honda's 0W20?


I considered Honda 0w20, but as far as I understand it, Honda has yet to retroactively recommend it for the Fit. The factory recommendation is still 5w20. Also, I was interested in giving PP a try, and it is easily available at Walmart in Canada


Garthg, thanks for posting this.

The FF is the Honda Brand Ultra Green 0W-10 which is what certain Japanese made Honda's come with. It's what's spec'd for the Fit in Japan.

As Rouge21 suggested the Honda Brand 0W-20 is the same high moly formulation in a heavier grade as the FF. Having said that it's start-up viscosity is much lower than the PP 5W-20 but it is a more expensive product at $7.60/L last time I checked.
A cheaper alternative is the Toyota Brand 0W-20 which is a very similar formulation to Honda's. It's $5.65/L and cheaper by the case. Honda is cheaper the case as well.
Something to consider for your next OC during the Kanata winter.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I would use the Honda or Toyota 0w-XX oils exclusively. They Put the xtra moly in there for a reason.

 

[gathermewool]

IMO, this motor will outlast the rest of the car with any decent oil, following the MM. No need to spend more money if it's not shown to be necessary. To each his/her own, and if you want to buy more expensive oil for peace of mind, then by all means go for it

 

[CATERHAM]

In Canada the Toyota 0W-20 is the best 20wt value available and it just happens to be the cheapest 0W-20 available here.
It really is a no-brainer.

 

[buster]

Quote:
Viscosity cSt at 100C 6.63


Honda will be using 0w10 oils at some point in the future. It seems Honda/Toyota are playing around with oils that have very high VI, and probably more VII's as a result.

 

[CATERHAM]

I agree with the "Honda/Toyota playing around" comment.

One of the main emphasis' with these oils is their low start-up viscosities as indicated by their k'vis spec's under 40 cSt.
IMO, the high VI's of over 200 is to just meet the virgin HTHS vis of 2.6 cP requirement for a 20wt oil.
My experience with the Toyota oil is that it shears almost immediately close to 10% and then stabilizes. I believe this is by design to acheive a lower operational viscosity which corelates to a HTHS vis' closer to 2.4 cP.

 

[badtlc]

If I ever buy a new Honda, I will definitely NOT be changing the factory fill out early. Great report. Thanks for sharing.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
In Canada the Toyota 0W-20 is the best 20wt value available and it just happens to be the cheapest 0W-20 available here.
It really is a no-brainer.


...if you extend out your intervals based on UOA, not just the MM. Just as a deal isn't a deal if you don't need it, the best (and more expensive) oil isn't the best if it works just as well as a cheaper oil for the interval and use.

 

[CATERHAM]

What part of the "best 20wt value and cheapest 0W-20" didn't you understand?

 

[Mokanic]

These engines will run plain old Shell dino oil for 10K with numbers that will make other engines green with envy. Choose whatever 20wt tickles your fancy and is priced the best and get ready for at least 300K trouble-free miles from that engine.