Experience with Redline Oil???

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Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Whether you care about your car warranty or not does not negate the fact that API/ACEA/ect. specs were desinged to maintain an engine warranty. It is not necessary the best oil there is for your engine. Redline street oil is their race oil (confirmed by Redline) with detergent so their performance are practically the same, i.e. better than any oem "street" oil that you can think off. Royal Purple XPR oil are also race/street capable. Also, you do not need to change RedLine street oil or RP XPR after each event. You can leave it in for the normal OCI.

Valvoline advertised publicly that their Synpower is VW-505 equivalent way before it was certified by VW. Valvoline does it by qualification via similarity. Many drivers, myself included, bought this oil because we believe in Valvoline's performance. People buy Redline/Amsoil/etc. also believe in those companies. The boutique oil companies do not cater to the general public like you, they are geared toward severe duty users like racers and off-roaders and high end automobiles.

If you look at oil as something upon which you need but not want to spend money then Synpower and PP on sale are all you need. Don't waste your time trying to understand the boutique oils, UOA, extended OCI, etc. Heck, I'm not even sure why you want to be on this forum since all you need to do is to follow the owner manual of your vehicles.

That was an interesting demonstration of rhetoric mixed with logical fallacies, to wit:

* the straw man argument -
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
API/ACEA/ect. specs were desinged to maintain an engine warranty. It is not necessary the best oil there is for your engine
I never claimed that API/ACEA/etc. made an oil the best, only that they provided specific and useful information about an oils properties. But are you actually trying to imply meeting API/ACEA/etc. specs is a "bad" thing? Likewise, is having an oil be designed to maintain an engines warranty an undesirable trait?

* the bold unsupported statement -
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Redline street oil is their race oil (confirmed by Redline) with detergent so their performance are practically the same, i.e. better than any oem "street" oil that you can think off. Royal Purple XPR oil are also race/street capable. Also, you do not need to change RedLine street oil or RP XPR after each event. You can leave it in for the normal OCI.
Was there any specific definition of "better" that you had in mind? How much UOA data do you have on post-race engines, and for that matter which engine, which race, or even which OCI?

* the false analogy -
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Valvoline advertised publicly that their Synpower is VW-505 equivalent way before it was certified by VW
The critical difference is that unlike some of the "boutique" brands, basically every Valvoline oil is API certified, many if not most are ACEA certified, and Valvoline is a big participant in the various auto manufacturer's approval system. Synpower MST 5w30, for example, has formal approvals from VW, MB, and BMW. So when (as of 8/2007) they list those approvals for the Synpower 5W-40 as "pending" one can have a fair amount of conifidence that it will be recieved. All in all, Valvoline claims regarding API/ACEA/etc. carry a lot more weight than those of a company that has had no oils approved by API, ACEA, or any engine manufacturer.

* the "you got to have faith"/"you are not worthy" argument -
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
People buy Redline/Amsoil/etc. also believe in those companies. The boutique oil companies do not cater to the general public like you, they are geared toward severe duty users like racers and off-roaders and high end automobiles.
So what exactly is it you "believe in" about these companies? Is faith rather than science and data really the best way to evaluate an oil? Are you implying that the boutique oils have no value for non-severe users? Likewise, how "high end" does an automobile have to be in order to be admitted to the "boutique" oil fraternity? Do "high end" automobile engines operate under different laws of chemistry and physics that make regular non-boutique oils unacceptable?

* and finally, my favorite, the ad hominem -
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
If you look at oil as something upon which you need but not want to spend money then Synpower and PP on sale are all you need. Don't waste your time trying to understand the boutique oils, UOA, extended OCI, etc. Heck, I'm not even sure why you want to be on this forum since all you need to do is to follow the owner manual of your vehicles.
Has it really come to this - If you don't agree with me you don't belong here, why don't you go away? Is that really your strongest closing argument about the virtues of your favorite oil? No data, no new information, no discussion of chemical properties, just that unbelievers should be shunned?

Here's the big point you seem to be avoiding:

The lack of information about the properties of the "boutique" oils raises uncertainties about them.

Which brings us back to my first post in this thread:
Originally Posted By: jpr
I believe there is plenty of room for well meaning people to disagree about the value of API, ACEA, and/or manufacturer approvals.

My own point of view is that when an oil carries one or more of those specifications it provides me with specific, independent, and reliable information about the properties of the oil. While the absence of those certifications does not automatically condemn an oil, the lack of information results in uncertainity about those properties.

Everybody has and is welcome to their own comfort level in accepting uncertainty and their own judgement as to what supplementary information is sufficient to offset that lack of information due to the lack certifications.

So far you've provided little to no actual information about the properties of any of the "boutique" oils. Absent data, all your arguments about the virtues of these oils comes down to a question of faith. Since faith is by definition a belief that persists despite contradictory or absent evidence, that doesn't leave much room to have a reasonable discussion. Until such time as you can present some actual data, we might as well be debating which is your favorite color.
 
You need to buy the cheapest API oil for your car and be done with it. You don't understand Redline/Amsoil because you just can't afford it. The property of Redlines/Amsoil/RP/etc are on their websites and by calling them. If you are too cheap to make a phone call and gain some knowledge then there is not much that I can say. If you want to play then you got to pay, go to the race track and talk to the factory reps. Otherwise, there is the old API dino for those that "look at oil as something upon which you need but not want to spend money". I don't sell oil so I don't have any free information to give to you.
 
Originally Posted By: buster


I disagree. Amsoil is the only boutique oil I would trust for meeting a particular spec. The others are so vague they are not worth even using in some instances. The differences between most oils is very marginal.

I don't think Redline is any better than Mobil 1 for street applications. I also don't think it will give you better mpg. HT/HS is related to mpg and that is why Mobil 1 for years has had a lower HT/HS IMO and why Amsoil has lowered all of their oils in the HT/HS department. (ASL/ATM/AFL/SSO). In engines that need high shear stability, RL might offer benefits.


Your mileage may vary but I do get the best mileage with Redline street oil. This is the reason I stop being an Amsoil dealer. Here in AZ you do need HT/HS and hence the Redline. I also tracked my ZR-1 and my bike at Firebird Raceway on Redline street oil. My run of the mill grocery getters and old vehicles are now on Synpower and PP due to the rebate. For those that don't abuse their cars I would still recommend conventional oil that meet their engine warranty. I still buy Amsoil for specific needs but don't run them that much any more. Amsoil is a very good oil but my experience with Redline and RP XPR are better.
 
I guess you don't have any information at all is more like it.

As for me, I've been to their websites and downloaded all the data available; I've been in email correspondence with the tech reps; I've read the comments on this forum, the Noria oil forum, and several auto forums; I've looked at 15 VOA's and used oil analysis on Amsoil, 10 on Redline, and 17 on Royal Purple. Suffice it to say, I've done my homework.

You clearly have not.

Which is perhaps why when asked to actually bring some tech to back up anything you've claimed, you can do nothing but resort to non-sequitors and ad hominem attacks.

If you actually have no information to contribute and are incapable of carrying on an adult level discussion, then perhaps you are on the wrong forum.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
az, you down for the count? Come on up for air, bro! If you wanna tap out, that's cool, too.


Nah! that kid just want to read specs because he don't have the cash to try out the real thing. That is why I recommend the API dino because he can't afford the good stuffs (his words, not mine). I was an Amsoil dealer and I really don't want to shove any more specs down his throat. There is no way to convince a bench racer that API was design for OEM warranty and nothing more. Once the warranty is over you can throw all that specs out of the window. Oh yeah! GM made an engine oil supplement for a reason.
 
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Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
az, you down for the count? Come on up for air, bro! If you wanna tap out, that's cool, too.


Nah! that kid just want to read specs because he don't have the cash to try out the real thing. That is why I recommend the API dino because he can't afford the good stuffs (his words, not mine). I was an Amsoil dealer and I really don't want to shove any more specs down his throat. There is no way to convince a bench racer that API was design for OEM warranty and nothing more. Once the warranty is over you can throw all that specs out of the window. Oh yeah! GM made an engine oil supplement for a reason.
True to form, you do not let you utter and complete ingnorance stand in the way of your making all sorts of bold claims.

You know nothing about me, my experience, my education, my profession, my age, nor my income bracket. Yet some for reason you continue to wave your random and spurious assumptions around in the vain hope it will distract people enough so that they won't notice your astounding lack of any actual technical data or knowledge that would support any opinion you've offered.

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but I really don't think you've got anybody fooled.
 
"If you actually have no information to contribute and are incapable of carrying on an adult level discussion, then perhaps you are on the wrong forum."

Practice what you preach
 
Originally Posted By: gasterus
Anyone has any experience with Redline oil? Care to share your experience, seems to be popular with BMW owners in Japan.


You may want to read some of the US bmw forums. Some have reported swollen seals and leaks when switching to redline. No redline in my BMW.
 
virginoil everything bar the engine oil. Now rework the figures. P/S, g'box. diff it's very cheap insurance. As I said we will have this Outback for decades. My new (used) BMW will have Redline within a week except the engine. A no-brainer really but if Molakule's oils were here I'd use his instead.
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
"If you actually have no information to contribute and are incapable of carrying on an adult level discussion, then perhaps you are on the wrong forum."

Practice what you preach
That's it? That's all you can come up with? No tech, no data, nothing rationale to say about oil? Just a random and completely inapplicable quotation? Nothing more than the "I'm rubber and you're glue" defense? That's truly sad and childish.

But tell you what, being the magnamimous sort that I am, I'll offer you a fresh start. A few posts ago, you stated this:
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Here in AZ you do need HT/HS and hence the Redline.
Please explain the technical reasoning behind this statement.
 
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The fact that "jpr" used "ad hominem" in the correct context - and spelled correctly - makes him the clear winner in this debate IMHO.

Seriously jpr, I have to say I admire your well-written and thoughtful posts. You write good.
 
Originally Posted By: BullyT
Seriously jpr, I have to say I admire your well-written and thoughtful posts. You write good.


+1 I wish I was articulate.
 
Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Here in AZ you do need HT/HS and hence the Redline.
Please explain the technical reasoning behind this statement.


Come to Phoenix in July/August and I will demonstrate. But, here is a hint HT/HS stands for "High Temperature/High Shear" (ASTM D-4683). Now go find that spec and read it.
 
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Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Here in AZ you do need HT/HS and hence the Redline.
Please explain the technical reasoning behind this statement.


Come to Phoenix in July/August and I will demonstrate. But, here is a hint HT/HS stands for "High Temperature/High Shear" (ASTM D-4683). Now go find that spec and read it.
Believe me, I already knew the answer before I even asked the question. This was an opportunity for you demonstrate your knowledge, specifically in regards to the influence and relationship of ambient temperature on desired HT/HS. I guess I was hoping you be able to come up with more than a mere definition.

EDIT - Tell you what, because it's Friday and I'm in such a kind mood, I'll give you a hint - how high temperature is the HT?
 
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Originally Posted By: BullyT
The fact that "jpr" used "ad hominem" in the correct context - and spelled correctly - makes him the clear winner in this debate IMHO.

Seriously jpr, I have to say I admire your well-written and thoughtful posts. You write good.
Thank you BullyT and jaredyost for the kind comments.
 
Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Here in AZ you do need HT/HS and hence the Redline.
Please explain the technical reasoning behind this statement.


Come to Phoenix in July/August and I will demonstrate. But, here is a hint HT/HS stands for "High Temperature/High Shear" (ASTM D-4683). Now go find that spec and read it.
Believe me, I already knew the answer before I even asked the question.


So you are a Troll then?????
 
jpr, great posts.

azsynthetic, living in AZ has nothing to do with needing an oil with a HT/HS. You can't base how good an oil is off of one specific variable. It's much more involved than that.
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
So you are a Troll then?????
No, just trying to give you a fresh chance to strut your technical stuff.

Want another hint? - what is the typical operating temperature range of an automobile engine and how does it change seasonally?
 
Originally Posted By: buster
azsynthetic, living in AZ has nothing to do with needing an oil with a HT/HS. You can't base how good an oil is off of one specific variable. It's much more involved than that.


I specifically stated that it is in my experiences that Redline and RP are better for AZ since it is 125 degree in the shade during the summer. My truck GCW is over 25K with the trailer and towing in desert heat in stop and go traffic or climbing hill is an oil killer. Autocrossing once a month and bracket racing every other weekends at Firebird Raceway have proven to me that most off the shelf oils just don't cut it. I have tried them all and came to my conclusion instead of just reading available specs. API/ACEA/etc. just don't cut it for extreme service conditions. That kid is just repeating what he has read, nothing more nothing less, and he is trolling for answer.
 
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