Experience with, and opinions on Amsoil??
- Thread starter Ponch
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My experience:
I have been using Amsoil SSO 0w30 since November 2008, corresponding to 58K mi on the OD (today at 84K). I used the EaO filter and SSO. In spring 2009 (+8K mi roughly) I changed to M1 5w30 and Fleetguard LF3554. I was not happy with the additional startup noise, slight loss of smoothness, and slight loss of plain old peppiness, but was very pleased with the improved oil pressure on startup and generally less fluctuation in oil pressure (I attribute this to the filter). Also the 3800 was weeping more M1 past the valve stem seals even though the M1 was 5W(as opposed to 0W). So, at 74K mi (early last fall) I changed again, back to Amsoil SSO, but using the Fleetguard filter. I am very, very happy with the quick starts, the smoothness, the good (visual) condition of the oil at 10K (now), and the reasonable cold weather MPG and driveability benefits (of course starting is a cinch, even below 0F).
My COMMENTS & OPINIONS:
The SSO is very pricey, but is a humdinger of an oil. I don't know how to do any better in my application, other than some minor tweaks I mention below. For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
I have used the Amsoil P.I. with results that are consistent with advertised performance, though I lean toward Techron to maintain the results. I will point out that while the P.I. got performance results, 4oz of MMO per 10 gal. fuel has made the engine smoother running without compromising the P.I. results.
IMO the EaO filters are not the value that the oils are. The Fleetguards available on Ryder.com are a way better value, and a better filter IMO. I have found the LF3554 and SSO to be a GREAT combo for me.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Hope this helps!
I have been using Amsoil SSO 0w30 since November 2008, corresponding to 58K mi on the OD (today at 84K). I used the EaO filter and SSO. In spring 2009 (+8K mi roughly) I changed to M1 5w30 and Fleetguard LF3554. I was not happy with the additional startup noise, slight loss of smoothness, and slight loss of plain old peppiness, but was very pleased with the improved oil pressure on startup and generally less fluctuation in oil pressure (I attribute this to the filter). Also the 3800 was weeping more M1 past the valve stem seals even though the M1 was 5W(as opposed to 0W). So, at 74K mi (early last fall) I changed again, back to Amsoil SSO, but using the Fleetguard filter. I am very, very happy with the quick starts, the smoothness, the good (visual) condition of the oil at 10K (now), and the reasonable cold weather MPG and driveability benefits (of course starting is a cinch, even below 0F).
My COMMENTS & OPINIONS:
The SSO is very pricey, but is a humdinger of an oil. I don't know how to do any better in my application, other than some minor tweaks I mention below. For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
I have used the Amsoil P.I. with results that are consistent with advertised performance, though I lean toward Techron to maintain the results. I will point out that while the P.I. got performance results, 4oz of MMO per 10 gal. fuel has made the engine smoother running without compromising the P.I. results.
IMO the EaO filters are not the value that the oils are. The Fleetguards available on Ryder.com are a way better value, and a better filter IMO. I have found the LF3554 and SSO to be a GREAT combo for me.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Hope this helps!
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Here's where Amsoil really shines....if it is used in
any "high use" vehicle.....like a cab, delivery truck,
OTR rig. In that situation it can't be beat in a
simple cost analysis. If used in typical "John Doe"
car, truck or motorcycle that is driven less than
20K year, or your vehicle warranty requires OCIs
at least every 6 months or say 7-8K, then it becomes very
expensive to use compared to many products that will give you
just as good wear numbers. Here's an example...I used to
use it in my Harleys because I would leave it in for a year
regardless of miles. That cost me around $60 for oil per
bike/per year. I switched to Rotella T-Syn, same once
a year interval, costing me less than $15 per bike/per year
....Note that I buy Rotella in 5 gallon pails at farm
and fleet or local truck lube shop for around $3/quart
and I can get it in twenty minutes or less 7 days a week.
That being said, in all fairness Amsoil is good oil,
it's just not cost effective for many applications.
any "high use" vehicle.....like a cab, delivery truck,
OTR rig. In that situation it can't be beat in a
simple cost analysis. If used in typical "John Doe"
car, truck or motorcycle that is driven less than
20K year, or your vehicle warranty requires OCIs
at least every 6 months or say 7-8K, then it becomes very
expensive to use compared to many products that will give you
just as good wear numbers. Here's an example...I used to
use it in my Harleys because I would leave it in for a year
regardless of miles. That cost me around $60 for oil per
bike/per year. I switched to Rotella T-Syn, same once
a year interval, costing me less than $15 per bike/per year
....Note that I buy Rotella in 5 gallon pails at farm
and fleet or local truck lube shop for around $3/quart
and I can get it in twenty minutes or less 7 days a week.
That being said, in all fairness Amsoil is good oil,
it's just not cost effective for many applications.
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Blurry - engine bottom ends always look clean.
Purely my experience, nothing scientific. But I have seen it in fleet use for many years and the vehicles rack up 100s and 100s of thousands of miles (Im talking 3,400K+). The vehicles wear out before the motors. I am convinced its the read deal. However... its not really cost effective unless you do 10k+ OCIs. But it will do those with ease.
Originally Posted By: Ponch
I want to hear your personal experience, or opinion on this product. I will make it perfectly clear to everyone that I am NOT trying to bash this product, or start some kind of heated debate. I know that there are some very religous users/dealers of this product on this forum, and to each their own!...so let me know, did you think the price was reasonable? what about a UOA? how did it turn out? what about their filters? (oil and air). Did you quit using this product? Why?
-Pomch
I'm currently using the Amsoil 10W30(ATM)motor oil in both my 91 MX5 and my 2004 Mazdaspeed MX5 (factory turbocharged.)
My first UOA on the Mazdaspeed can be found in this thread:
BITOG thread.
So far, pretty good results.
Looking forward to having the second UOA done in another 6K miles with the new air filter in place and running the Amsoil EA013 oil filter instead of the two WIX units.
I want to hear your personal experience, or opinion on this product. I will make it perfectly clear to everyone that I am NOT trying to bash this product, or start some kind of heated debate. I know that there are some very religous users/dealers of this product on this forum, and to each their own!...so let me know, did you think the price was reasonable? what about a UOA? how did it turn out? what about their filters? (oil and air). Did you quit using this product? Why?
-Pomch
I'm currently using the Amsoil 10W30(ATM)motor oil in both my 91 MX5 and my 2004 Mazdaspeed MX5 (factory turbocharged.)
My first UOA on the Mazdaspeed can be found in this thread:
BITOG thread.
So far, pretty good results.
Looking forward to having the second UOA done in another 6K miles with the new air filter in place and running the Amsoil EA013 oil filter instead of the two WIX units.
The SSO is very pricey, but is a humdinger of an oil. I don't know how to do any better in my application, other than some minor tweaks I mention below. For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Note to self: [censored] with faint praise is alive and well.
Purchase an expensive boutique oil and then hopefully try to improve it with more additives.
Big smile.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Note to self: [censored] with faint praise is alive and well.
Purchase an expensive boutique oil and then hopefully try to improve it with more additives.
Big smile.
Originally Posted By: levi
For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
PLEASE tell me that you bought it from a site sponsor!
Over $250 worth of SSO I sure HOPE so...
For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
PLEASE tell me that you bought it from a site sponsor!
Over $250 worth of SSO I sure HOPE so...
I have used it for 4 years in my GMC diesel. The oil makes starting much easier. I am sure it's the oil. The same experience with my Kubota tractor. I went 46k mi. with the Amsoil series 3000 5w30. I caught a lot of [censored] for it on the diesel UOA thread. You can look it up for yourself. It's labeled "46k on my Amsoil" You are free to tell me how dumb I am and so forth. The OP asked about personal experiences so here it is. I am not real impressed with the hydraulic tractor fluid in my Kubota but is a little quieter than the Kubota brand and just a little more money.
My opinion is that there engine oil is over priced.
My experience is that their Severe Gear 75W-90 is one of the best gear lubes available and I highly recommend it. I also tried their 100 to 1, and regular, 2 stroke oils and wasn't impressed.
I have not tried any of their other products.
My experience is that their Severe Gear 75W-90 is one of the best gear lubes available and I highly recommend it. I also tried their 100 to 1, and regular, 2 stroke oils and wasn't impressed.
I have not tried any of their other products.
Amsoil rules !! M-1 can pound sand compared to Amsoil. I wouldn't say $6.50 a quart is too much for PAO oil.
You get what you pay for. M-1? MAYBE some PAO....or maybe not?
You get what you pay for. M-1? MAYBE some PAO....or maybe not?
[quote
Also, still changing the SSO every 3k miles? [/quote]
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
Also, still changing the SSO every 3k miles? [/quote]
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
Originally Posted By: levi
The SSO is very pricey, but is a humdinger of an oil. I don't know how to do any better in my application, other than some minor tweaks I mention below. For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Note to self: [censored] with faint praise is alive and well.
Purchase an expensive boutique oil and then hopefully try to improve it with more additives.
Big smile.
Oops, I didn't mention that the reason I might use MMO or ARX or powdered MoS2 is to try to tweak away the little startup clatter in warm weather. The the idea is to experiment a little near the end of my 15-20K pure SSO OCI. Just because I have to know.
At this point I'm toying with the fine points of coddling my 1994 Buick 3800 with weepy valve stem seals and 85K purely for sport.
The SSO is very pricey, but is a humdinger of an oil. I don't know how to do any better in my application, other than some minor tweaks I mention below. For me, I paid for the PC trial (6 mo.), and bought 8 gallons of SSO. I feel I got good value.
FUTURE PLANS & TWEAKS to my method:
IN the future I plan to add some AMS XL (?) 10w30 for summer as makeup oil to cut startup clatter in warm weather. The SSO gives some startup clatter in warm weather (60F up).
I may also add super fine grade MoS2 (powder) to make life easier on the compression rings and make up for the rinsing from reformulated gas.
I will try some MMO or ARX in the oil (probably MMO) with 2-3K left on my OCI to see if anything improves.
Note to self: [censored] with faint praise is alive and well.
Purchase an expensive boutique oil and then hopefully try to improve it with more additives.
Big smile.
Oops, I didn't mention that the reason I might use MMO or ARX or powdered MoS2 is to try to tweak away the little startup clatter in warm weather. The the idea is to experiment a little near the end of my 15-20K pure SSO OCI. Just because I have to know.
At this point I'm toying with the fine points of coddling my 1994 Buick 3800 with weepy valve stem seals and 85K purely for sport.
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Oh, and MoS2 to beat the effects of the reformulated fuel used in SE WI (rinsing oil off of upper cyl walls).
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
Originally Posted By: jerre310
Most point to the 4 ball wear test. This is a actual test.
Yes it is, but it's a gear oil test. It is not recognized by the API, SAE, or any other testing organization as a test for the internal combustion engine.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Why does Castrol give you the impression that "all wear occurs at start up" to mean the first few seconds when SAE defines it as the first 20 minutes (or more accurately- anything other than steady state)? Why does PZ use a sludge bath or a shredder to depict a process that can't possibly occur?
Gary, you have been watching to much TV. Castrol has Jimmy slap you with his dipstick and it is Castrol that has dumb and dumber setting on the sofa while sludge pours all over their heads. Not PZ.
Most point to the 4 ball wear test. This is a actual test.
Yes it is, but it's a gear oil test. It is not recognized by the API, SAE, or any other testing organization as a test for the internal combustion engine.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Why does Castrol give you the impression that "all wear occurs at start up" to mean the first few seconds when SAE defines it as the first 20 minutes (or more accurately- anything other than steady state)? Why does PZ use a sludge bath or a shredder to depict a process that can't possibly occur?
Gary, you have been watching to much TV. Castrol has Jimmy slap you with his dipstick and it is Castrol that has dumb and dumber setting on the sofa while sludge pours all over their heads. Not PZ.
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
He JUST extended it to 4000 miles.
The other 50+ (yes FIFTY PLUS) OCIs he did 3,000 OCIs with SSO....
He could have made 285,000 miles on ANY oil changed every 3000 miles. (and the engine would have been just as clean, etc)
Wish I had some of that action!
Bill
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
He JUST extended it to 4000 miles.
The other 50+ (yes FIFTY PLUS) OCIs he did 3,000 OCIs with SSO....
He could have made 285,000 miles on ANY oil changed every 3000 miles. (and the engine would have been just as clean, etc)
Wish I had some of that action!
Bill
Been using products since early 90s, still use the 0W30 and a mix of 5W30 series 3000 with the 10W40. However, must run at least 7500 mile OCIs to even consider getting your value. Otherwise, too expensive. The oil filters, I don't use, overpriced and IMO oil filters in general over hyped. The ATF is the best, used in many many different manufactures' vehicles with excellent results. The gear oil, I think Redline makes a better gear oil.
I have used the M1 and Pennzoil synthetics and have a few gallons on hand, simply due to price and rebates, Amsoil is never discounted or any other promotions, always top dollar. Fortunatley I have a warehouse I can go to and not pay shipping.
I have used the M1 and Pennzoil synthetics and have a few gallons on hand, simply due to price and rebates, Amsoil is never discounted or any other promotions, always top dollar. Fortunatley I have a warehouse I can go to and not pay shipping.
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
Buster,
The TBN is down to 6 at 4,000 miles, still good of course, but I expected it would be higher.
I look at the contaminent particles more than the TBN. I was very pleased with the latest UOA, ISO 4406 read 14/14/11 the best it has ever been.
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
Buster,
The TBN is down to 6 at 4,000 miles, still good of course, but I expected it would be higher.
I look at the contaminent particles more than the TBN. I was very pleased with the latest UOA, ISO 4406 read 14/14/11 the best it has ever been.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
He JUST extended it to 4000 miles.
The other 50+ (yes FIFTY PLUS) OCIs he did 3,000 OCIs with SSO....
He could have made 285,000 miles on ANY oil changed every 3000 miles. (and the engine would have been just as clean, etc)
Wish I had some of that action!
Bill
Minor correction Bill,,,,harryj hasn't run his Civic its entire life on SSO.......I believe he has said that for a lot of years, he ran Castrol GTX 5w30.
I don't know exactly when he started using SSO, but I don't think he's done 50 OCI's with SSO......
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
Bill,
As I have remedied some of the oil contamination issues, I have extended the oil change interval to exceed 3,000 miles. I am shooting for 4,000 miles for now. I will just have to play it by oil.
That is the biggest waste of oil I have ever heard of. Dumping a 13.2 Tbn oil out at 4,000 miles? Contamination or not, save your money.
He JUST extended it to 4000 miles.
The other 50+ (yes FIFTY PLUS) OCIs he did 3,000 OCIs with SSO....
He could have made 285,000 miles on ANY oil changed every 3000 miles. (and the engine would have been just as clean, etc)
Wish I had some of that action!
Bill
Minor correction Bill,,,,harryj hasn't run his Civic its entire life on SSO.......I believe he has said that for a lot of years, he ran Castrol GTX 5w30.
I don't know exactly when he started using SSO, but I don't think he's done 50 OCI's with SSO......
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