Euro C5/C6 same as ILSAC 0w20

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Oct 29, 2003
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618
Location
Ontario Canada
I think there is no difference between Euro C5/6 0w20 oil and ILSAC API SP. I see VOA on both and can't seem to find any difference. I know the 30 grade Euro oil has a HT/HS of 3.5 vs 3 but the 20 seems the same. Any thoughts?
 
I think there is no difference between Euro C5/6 0w20 oil and ILSAC API SP. I see VOA on both and can't seem to find any difference. I know the 30 grade Euro oil has a HT/HS of 3.5 vs 3 but the 20 seems the same. Any thoughts?
It probably has more antioxidants in the Euro C5 than your run of the mill ILSAC 0w20, however, your M1 EP/Edge EP are likely just as capable.
 
It probably has more antioxidants in the Euro C5 than your run of the mill ILSAC 0w20, however, your M1 EP/Edge EP are likely just as capable.
My interest is in the BMW LL 17 fe+ 0w20 spec. Very hard to find and to order will be around $70 cdn.
 
My interest is in the BMW LL 17 fe+ 0w20 spec. Very hard to find and to order will be around $70 cdn.
I'm not really sure what the differences are what testing goes into that spec.
 
I'm not really sure what the differences are what testing goes into that spec.
I've got Mobil 1 esp 5w30 (BMW LL 04) API SP in this past spring and summer. I want to go back to 0w20 this winter. I found Castrol Edge Euro 0w20 with BMW LL 17 approval in quarts only. 5 QTS will cost over $100 with tax.
 
I've got Mobil 1 esp 5w30 (BMW LL 04) API SP in this past spring and summer. I want to go back to 0w20 this winter. I found Castrol Edge Euro 0w20 with BMW LL 17 approval in quarts only. 5 QTS will cost over $100 with tax.
Why? Just to get a 0W winter rating? Do you need it?
 
I think there is no difference between Euro C5/6 0w20 oil and ILSAC API SP. I see VOA on both and can't seem to find any difference. I know the 30 grade Euro oil has a HT/HS of 3.5 vs 3 but the 20 seems the same. Any thoughts?
Can you tell the difference between Alpha Centauri and Betelgeuse with a $30 telescope? Nope, and the same applies with using the wrong tool for oil analysis.

As kschachn and MolaKule have mentioned numerous times, a majority of what makes an oil perform how it does will never be visible on a $30 oil analysis. IIRC, MolaKule mentioned that the type of analyses that can show what the magic of a given oil is start around the $700 range, and that price was several years ago. Rely on actual certifications on oils; it’s much cheaper and more accurate on telling you how an oil will perform. 👍🏻
 
Why you are not sticking to ESP?
I could. Only available in 5w30.
Thought of going back to 0w20
for winter months ahead.
Manual calls for either 0w20 or 0w30. It's my wife's vehicle and it's start and go for her. I think the 0w will be better for flow.
 
I could. Only available in 5w30.
Thought of going back to 0w20
for winter months ahead.
Manual calls for either 0w20 or 0w30. It's my wife's vehicle and it's start and go for her. I think the 0w will be better for flow.
Umm, what?

 
Umm, what?

Only 0w Mobil XP I see is 0w30 in quarts or litre bottles for over $18.
That's what we have in Canada.
The Mobil 1 XP 5w30 is available
in 5 l jugs and is available on sale for $40 every so often.
 
Only 0w Mobil XP I see is 0w30 in quarts or litre bottles for over $18.
That's what we have in Canada.
The Mobil 1 XP 5w30 is available
in 5 l jugs and is available on sale for $40 every so often.
Sorry. I mean ESP Euro.
 
If you are dead set on a 0w mid SAPS oil with BMW approval then here’s an option available in more than 1 quart:

Not that it’s cheap.

IMO since you don’t have an OPF as far as I can tell, I would probably run M1 0W-40 in that engine if you must have 5 Qt jugs or maybe BMW TPT 0W-30 LL-01 FE if you find it cheap enough. The LL01FE basically looks mid SAPS on analysis anyway.

The problem is there are very few 0W-xx LL01 or LL04 oils in North America, and any of the newer specs are harder to find as you noticed. I would stick with the ESP 5W30 if you aren’t in extreme cold.
 
I could. Only available in 5w30.
Thought of going back to 0w20
for winter months ahead.
Manual calls for either 0w20 or 0w30. It's my wife's vehicle and it's start and go for her. I think the 0w will be better for flow.
Manual calls for LL17FE or LL01FE.
I personally would tun LL04 or LL01 (not FE).
But, your call. Motomaster has LL04 and LL01 oils and they are rebadged Pennzoil (Shell).
 
If you are dead set on a 0w mid SAPS oil with BMW approval then here’s an option available in more than 1 quart:

Not that it’s cheap.

IMO since you don’t have an OPF as far as I can tell, I would probably run M1 0W-40 in that engine if you must have 5 Qt jugs or maybe BMW TPT 0W-30 LL-01 FE if you find it cheap enough. The LL01FE basically looks mid SAPS on analysis anyway.

The problem is there are very few 0W-xx LL01 or LL04 oils in North America, and any of the newer specs are harder to find as you noticed. I would stick with the ESP 5W30 if you aren’t in extreme cold.
New Motul X-Clean+ EFE 0W30 is LL04:
 
I could. Only available in 5w30.
Thought of going back to 0w20
for winter months ahead.
Manual calls for either 0w20 or 0w30. It's my wife's vehicle and it's start and go for her. I think the 0w will be better for flow.
Flow is largely irrelevant. The winter rating is about cranking and pumpability. If it pumps it will flow.

And this is determined by temperature. How cold is your coldest expected starting temperature? An oil with a 5W winter rating will be guaranteed to be pumpable down to about -30 or so, are you starting below that temperature?
 
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