eu2000i through southeast tornados

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: irq3
Doesn't natural gas rely on electric pumps throughout the system? If there is a major utility outage, there may be a partial or complete loss of gas pressure. This makes it unreliable and that is why most data centers use diesel. You could always use propane stored on site.


No, natural gas pipelines are presurized by pumps driven by engines which consume a portion of the Natural Gas arriving at the pumping station.

As far as limitations to size, just remember that many of the Utility Companies in the US rely on Natural Gas powered "Peaking Generators" to supply additional electrical generating capacity in times of unusually high demand.

Pre-packaged Skid Mount Gas Generator Sets

2MW is a standard skid mount size.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: meep
yes-- it made a huge difference with the kids-- and even for us-- being able to get decent sleep with airflow, and keeping foodstuffs stocked. I did not like the arrangement of cords everywhere, and would like a better solution. would LOVE to install a transfer switch at the breaker panel. THATs the way to do it. Never really gave it much thought before, but now I think I may look into it.

M


Have you decided which transfer switch to get yet?

I'm thinking about getting this switch for our eu2000i. The only downside I can think of is that it won't support a more powerful generator (240v) if we ever got one.
I would also need a minimum 40ft extension cord to run from the generator to the switch. I can find 12 gauge cords in 40ft, but 10 gauge cords are all either 25ft or 50ft and expensive.
 
that is a GREAT price. I was looking at a similar one but it was $100 more, and hence was waiting. I know I've seen them for less.

It's hard to find a 120V single phase unit that will cover more than 4 circuits. I'd need to cover 5 just to keep the fridge, kids nightlights, and the TV on, the way my home is wired.

I like this. If my dishwasher hadn't taken a dump LAST NIGHT, I'd be pulling out the credit card. I will bookmark it, however.

Thank you.

M
 
Since your house is wired for 230V, each of the 2 115V legs powers certain circuits. You will probably find that not all the circuits you want are on the same leg. So, a minor re-wire of the CB box may be in order.

Also, you must remember that powering just one leg of a house can backfeed through 230V appliances, such as well pumps, water heaters and so on.
 
^ No, that box interrupts power post- breaker, so it doesn't matter what phase something was originally on. You're supposed to clip the black wire coming out of the breaker, wire nut it to the input of the box, then wire nut the output for the related switch to the orphaned wire in the main breaker box.

It's basically one of these that runs six circuits, not one. And that *is* a good price, even though, IMO, such a gizmo should only cost around $40-50. Must be the UL listing that makes it so pricey.

directions pdf
 
Something else I've been thinking about (what's kept me from getting the transfer switch I mentioned earlier), is getting this 30amp transfer switch and wiring up a nema 5-15 inlet with the black wire tied to both the red and black on the transfer switch (making both legs hot with 120 volts). Just remove the tie bars on the 20 amp circuits and I'd have 10 individual breakers, 4 of which wouldn't trip at just 15 amps.

Then down the road if I get a 240 volt generator I would just have to change the inlet and wiring to the switch.
I noticed in another post that you upgraded to a 3000 watt yamaha, so this might be a better deal for you since it has 20 amp breakers.
What do you all think?
 
Yes that will give you room to expand. The 240v stuff can likely wait, unless you have a well pump that runs on it. If you have clothes that need drying in the interim, there's always the laundromat...
 
won't work for 240. by running parallel they are synced single phase. you can't sync them and then separate for a full back to back 240 swing.

It's pretty cool how the sync is designed... the sync cable literally just joins the two output outlets together.... so the 2nd generator to start, whichever one that is, knows to "listen" to the wire first and if there is power there, then step in with it. Since you can't expect both machines to precisely stay together, it may wait for a millisecond or two at every cycle, for the lead eu to continue, before it brings in the next pulse. just speculation, but some mechanism must be present to accomplish this...

either way tho, you won't get 240 unless you bring in a step-up xformer with a center tap for neutral.

M
 
Checked how many volt amps the freezer and fridge draw on start up. No wonder they almost cut the power running on eco throttle. Freezer draws 1350 volt amps on initial start up and settles almost instantly to 125 running. Fridge draws 1530 and takes a couple seconds longer to settle around 170.
 
Originally Posted By: Digital2k2
Originally Posted By: meep
yes-- it made a huge difference with the kids-- and even for us-- being able to get decent sleep with airflow, and keeping foodstuffs stocked. I did not like the arrangement of cords everywhere, and would like a better solution. would LOVE to install a transfer switch at the breaker panel. THATs the way to do it. Never really gave it much thought before, but now I think I may look into it.

M


Have you decided which transfer switch to get yet?

I'm thinking about getting this switch for our eu2000i. The only downside I can think of is that it won't support a more powerful generator (240v) if we ever got one.
I would also need a minimum 40ft extension cord to run from the generator to the switch. I can find 12 gauge cords in 40ft, but 10 gauge cords are all either 25ft or 50ft and expensive.


I pulled the plug (trigger) since it's that time of year and ordered the switch from gen-tran. I couldn't find better prices anywhere. bought the 30A, 6 circuit model for 199 + 12 shipping.
 
I got a 200 Amp (utility side) 50 Amp (Gen-Set side) DPDT transfer switch in box for $114 new on e-bay about a year or so ago. I can't remember for shure if that $114 included shipping or not, but I think it did not.

The 50 amp male outside power input plug + box was something like another $45 or so, I can't remember exactly.
 
I have:

Generac ix2000 + 5 gallon external fuel can with a gas cap that fits the Generac + the one gallon tank on the Generac should run our furnace (combined with a 30 Amp relay that transfers power to the fridge ONLY when the furnace is not on if that relay is enabled) for well over 24 Hours each fill.

Coleman PowerMate 5000/6250 Peak with Tecumseh 10HP with a car muffler on it for the whole house AC on hot summer days, and probably to power a few neighbors furnaces if there were a major winter outage.

55 gallons of high test with Sta-Bil in 22 X 2.5 Gallon plastic gas jugs.

It is getting about time to use the store of 55 gallons of winter gas in the cars before it gets too hot out. Winter gas will evaporate off the lite volatiles in hot weather.

It is a bit of a PIA maintaining the gen-sets by running them and changing the oils, storing and later using the gas, but it is nice to know it is there when the weather gets bad. We have not had a major outage yet, we came close last winter with the big snow storm.

In the end it is nice to know it is there, and sometimes you almost wish you had an excuse to use them for a few days, but in the end you know things are better off (epically all of the neighbors who are not prepared) if you never had to use them.
 
^ clever setup with the relay. Whenever I want to play with my generators I just remember that gasoline powered electricity is 10-15x grid cost.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
I was one of the lucky ones in Morgan that was back up in 24 hours.

Im amazed how little coverage the SCRAMing of three Reactors got especially when they are the same design as the ones in Japan. Guess it isnt news when things work the way they are supposed to.

PS We have been going through 20,000 dollars a day worth of Diesel Fuel at work to run the Generators.


Yeah, why would it be news? The backup systems worked properly, as designed, and there was zero danger.
 
fuel.

the spare car (minivan) holds 20 gallons. I've been rotating between 10-20 gallons in the garage. i hate doing that.

just ordered a $20 HF EFI pressure gauge with all the fittings. plan to cut off the gauge and use the fittings, some LONG extra hose, a cutoff valve... and I should be able to pump fuel from the van and use its own tank for fuel storage, without compromising the van's fuel system.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA


55 gallons of high test with Sta-Bil in 22 X 2.5 Gallon plastic gas jugs.



That is an impressive stash of gasoline! Just out of curiosity; Why the 2.5 gal cans and not something like 5gal?

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA


55 gallons of high test with Sta-Bil in 22 X 2.5 Gallon plastic gas jugs.



That is an impressive stash of gasoline! Just out of curiosity; Why the 2.5 gal cans and not something like 5gal?

Joel


A burglar has to make more trips back and forth?
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA


55 gallons of high test with Sta-Bil in 22 X 2.5 Gallon plastic gas jugs.



That is an impressive stash of gasoline! Just out of curiosity; Why the 2.5 gal cans and not something like 5gal?

Joel


Smaller gas jugs are easier on the back. At about 6.25 LBS per US gallon of gasoline, 2.5 x 6.25 LBS = 15.625 LBS + the gas jug, = about 16.5 LBS.

Much easier on the back than about 33 LBS per jug even if there are twice as many.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom