If you look at the fuel treatment bottles on the shelf at the Auto Parts stores, you will see a lot of labels now say 'ETHANOL' treatment in some form. If you go to their web sites of say, StaBil, you will see many labels with 'ethanol' and you will see a lot about how it fixes the 'ethanol' problems.
Ethanol vs not? Octane question
- Thread starter Schmitty
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Originally Posted By: hatt
I hear a lot of people talking about how E10 isn't a problem but then they talk about putting in additives so it doesn't go bad.
E10 or not, adding fuel stabiliser in gasoline is never a bad thing to begin with.
Q.
I hear a lot of people talking about how E10 isn't a problem but then they talk about putting in additives so it doesn't go bad.
E10 or not, adding fuel stabiliser in gasoline is never a bad thing to begin with.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: hatt
I hear a lot of people talking about how E10 isn't a problem but then they talk about putting in additives so it doesn't go bad.
E10 or not, adding fuel stabiliser in gasoline is never a bad thing to begin with.
Q.
Correct. In my opinion, one should always add stabilizer to fuel, regardless of its ethanol content, especially if you're a general homeowner type who might take a month or two to run through a gallon of gasoline.
Originally Posted By: hatt
I hear a lot of people talking about how E10 isn't a problem but then they talk about putting in additives so it doesn't go bad.
E10 or not, adding fuel stabiliser in gasoline is never a bad thing to begin with.
Q.
Correct. In my opinion, one should always add stabilizer to fuel, regardless of its ethanol content, especially if you're a general homeowner type who might take a month or two to run through a gallon of gasoline.
I've never used a drop of stabilizer and have never had a problem. And the gas sometimes gets a little old. The stuff in my pressure washer is at least 6 months old and I'm 100% sure it'll start on the first pull and run like a top. No way I'd even entertain the notion of needed stabilizer because the gas may sit for a few weeks. I'd just dump what I had into a car and get fresh gas every week or two if I did subscribe to the thinking that gas was that fragile.
Latest issue of Consumer Reports favors the use of "pure gas" at eight bucks a quart in OPE, and they are pretty conservative about how you should spend your money.
just like most avg joe car owners out there: unless you operate a landscaping biz and has to make a serious living off of your OPE equipments, most joes out there usually ignored (or disregard) the importance of proper OPE maintenance (including fogging of the cylinder before winter storage, doping with stabiliser and then sealing the gas tank cap to prevent excess venting, install a fuel shutoff valve (if necessary), check spark plug conditions, etc. until they suffer from hardstarting and/or oil burning issues.
They are mainly the ones who came on board either to seek advice or to bitxh about certain things afterwards.
I've been an advocate of proactive maintenance scheme on all things for over 25+yrs now, and all the OPE engines (including some 2T trimmers, and also my portable (HF) 2T generator,etc., lots and lots of B&S flatheads serviced, Hondas, etc.) have been running properly. I also teach those owners (engines that I serviced for them, mostly my friends and relatives) how to maintain and prepare them properly for storage.).
Here are the pics RE: my pulling of my 675 series for combustion chamber decarboning. This engine came neglected with clogged carb, previous owner knew nothing about winterisation and no gas doping with stabilisers, etc. for 6 yrs of usage.
(*while servicing flatheads in the past, I came across similar conditions with engines that owners constantly feeding their OPE with gummy/varnished gasoline, only worse....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...444#Post2664444
Remember this: some folks can take their OPE engines (or any IC engines that they own/operate)seriously ,and managed to obtain many, many years of faithful service with reliability. Some only manages to get a few years of meaningful service life out of their equipments (just like their cars)...
Q.
They are mainly the ones who came on board either to seek advice or to bitxh about certain things afterwards.
I've been an advocate of proactive maintenance scheme on all things for over 25+yrs now, and all the OPE engines (including some 2T trimmers, and also my portable (HF) 2T generator,etc., lots and lots of B&S flatheads serviced, Hondas, etc.) have been running properly. I also teach those owners (engines that I serviced for them, mostly my friends and relatives) how to maintain and prepare them properly for storage.).
Here are the pics RE: my pulling of my 675 series for combustion chamber decarboning. This engine came neglected with clogged carb, previous owner knew nothing about winterisation and no gas doping with stabilisers, etc. for 6 yrs of usage.
(*while servicing flatheads in the past, I came across similar conditions with engines that owners constantly feeding their OPE with gummy/varnished gasoline, only worse....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...444#Post2664444
Remember this: some folks can take their OPE engines (or any IC engines that they own/operate)seriously ,and managed to obtain many, many years of faithful service with reliability. Some only manages to get a few years of meaningful service life out of their equipments (just like their cars)...
Q.
Five years on my Troy bilt weed eater and honda GVC 160 mower. I run fuel additive during the season, drain the tanks and run them till they shut off for storage. Takes a few primes to fire them up again.
Kestas
Staff member
I've learned to make my own E0 for OPE. I started doing this after experiencing bad corrosion in the carburator of one unit.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2749602#Post2749602
No need to spend $8 a quart. When I'm finished washing the ethanol out of E10, the E0 costs me around $4.10 a gallon at today's prices.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2749602#Post2749602
No need to spend $8 a quart. When I'm finished washing the ethanol out of E10, the E0 costs me around $4.10 a gallon at today's prices.
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