Enzo - New Haas' 0W-30 Formula UOA

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Originally Posted By: oliveoil
Because you drive this thing like a Honda Fit, and not like a sports car, your light weight oil has little meaning since the engine is not being exercised as a sport car. This use of light-weight oil in a lightly used car (no matter the make) makes sense...but it makes you seem like a rich person who "wants to be seen" as a pioneer. No it just makes others wonder if that money that you spent on an Enzo to go buy small items at Home Depot, using light-weight oil, couldn't have gone to better use with so many others hurtung financially.

I agree with the light oil in his grocery getter being adequate.
But the Occupier/Marxist part of you post is way off base. He obviously has worked hard and has the ability to have finer things. It's not for you or anyone else to judge or lecture what he should do with his money. This whole disgusting class warfare argument is pathetic. And I'm one the guys hurting financially.
 
Originally Posted By: oliveoil
Because you drive this thing like a Honda Fit, and not like a sports car, your light weight oil has little meaning since the engine is not being exercised as a sport car. This use of light-weight oil in a lightly used car (no matter the make) makes sense...but it makes you seem like a rich person who "wants to be seen" as a pioneer. No it just makes others wonder if that money that you spent on an Enzo to go buy small items at Home Depot, using light-weight oil, couldn't have gone to better use with so many others hurtung financially.

The key/point here is he uses the oil grade according to his driving style, his location ... Not the recommended grade for his car(s).

I do similar way, I have synthetic xW20 in my E430 while the recommended grade is with HTHS of 3.5 or higher, M1 0W40 is one of the recommended oil.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
oliveoil said:
The key/point here is he uses the oil grade according to his driving style, his location ... Not the recommended grade for his car(s).

I do similar way, I have synthetic xW20 in my E430 while the recommended grade is with HTHS of 3.5 or higher, M1 0W40 is one of the recommended oil.


So going "thin is in" and understandable but I don't see much understanding when I go "thicker" in my 2009 Honda CR-V when I pull a 1500lb trailer across 112*F TEXAS @ 80MPH with the AC blasting. I just don't feel that Honda had me amymore in mind with the 0W-20 than Ferrari did with the Dr's thick Ferrari factory recomendation.

I may be running that Mobil 1 0W-40 in the Honda this Summer.
 
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR

The key/point here is he uses the oil grade according to his driving style, his location ... Not the recommended grade for his car(s).


Excellent point!

It's truly sad that Dr Haas has to deal with haters basically every time he has a thread.
 
Is there a possibility that regardless of short trips, parts of the engine do get very hot and thus a weight lower than specification could be an issue?
 
"Is there a possibility that regardless of short trips, parts of the engine do get very hot and thus a weight lower than specification could be an issue?"

I'm back. This is a good question. The answer is NO in my book, for me and my engine. In fact, my conclusion is that for my car and my driving and my oil there is no indication of ANY wear at all!

ali

Also, 12 quarts but actually about 14-15 if ALL the oil was changed. Dry sump.
 
OK, but even the Dr says you would need thicker oil in high temp situations eg racing.

My question is that without knowing more about the engine design and potential hot spots, can you always go to thinner oils?

Edit: Dr Haas just replied above and answered that for his engine no, but presumably there are cases where it might be an issue.

Btw my reason for asking these questions is not to contradict but to help frame the theory.

I guess that the rule that you can go to the thinnest oil for your driving style might have the caveat that your engine does not do anything abnormal. I presume that in an engine prone to sludging it would be dangerous to go too thin especially without synthetic. There is a small chance that you may have one of those engines.

Engines prone to sludge
 
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Originally Posted By: rjacket
My question is that without knowing more about the engine design and potential hot spots, can you always go to thinner oils?


I'd agree with Dr. Haas on this one. If the pressure is sufficient for his driving style, hot spots aren't an issue. Flash heating isn't the same as high sump temperatures. Secondly, thicker oils aren't the automatic answer to high temperatures. In fact, there are certain cases where that would be counterproductive. People who drive cars like my G or a 370Z hard occasionally find their engines going into limp mode, because the oil gets too hot. Going to a heavier grade will merely aggravate the issue, since the thicker oil will simply run hotter.

If one is overly worried about "hot spots," a synthetic might be a better answer than a thicker oil.
 
^This guy with a G37(IIRC?) coupe had this issue at a shop, he happened to be in that day and the shop thought it was a certain issue relative to when cornering(
confused2.gif
), I wonder if he simply used too thick oil, or drove it too hard, etc?

He drove away after the shop 'fixed it', leaving while I was coming into the shop, and before I left he returned saying 'it died on me again'.

Brand new 2010 at the time, IIRC.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: rjacket
My question is that without knowing more about the engine design and potential hot spots, can you always go to thinner oils?


I'd agree with Dr. Haas on this one. If the pressure is sufficient for his driving style, hot spots aren't an issue. Flash heating isn't the same as high sump temperatures. Secondly, thicker oils aren't the automatic answer to high temperatures. In fact, there are certain cases where that would be counterproductive. People who drive cars like my G or a 370Z hard occasionally find their engines going into limp mode, because the oil gets too hot. Going to a heavier grade will merely aggravate the issue, since the thicker oil will simply run hotter.

If one is overly worried about "hot spots," a synthetic might be a better answer than a thicker oil.


I understand and agree with you on flash temp vs sump temp.

But an engine running above normal temp causes the oil to get thinner right? So a thinner oil may be too thin at above normal temperatures.

Isn't the right choice of oil the one that is the right viscosity at the temperature your engine will run at?

If an engine does not get up to the temp that the manufacturer expected when specifying the weight of oil, then it is safe to go thinner.

If the engine will get to the temp that the manufacturer expected when specifying the weight of oil, then you should go with the weight suggested.

Dr Haas if I recall correctly, has several supercars whose manufacturers seem to specify oil weight for racing temps not normal everyday driving temps let alone short trip temps.
 
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Originally Posted By: rjacket
Isn't the right choice of oil the one that is the right viscosity at the temperature your engine will run at?

If an engine does not get up to the temp that the manufacturer expected when specifying the weight of oil, then it is safe to go thinner.


Absolutely. That's where knowledge of the actual oil pressures and temperatures occurring is useful to know, particularly if one knows the specified oil pressure ranges (i.e. from a shop manual). That's why Dr. Haas can do what he does. If I was short tripping my old F-150 (i.e. driving a block at a time and then cooling down, or something similarly strange), I'd run 5w-20 in the thing, regardless of the specifications, since it would never get up to temps anyhow.

As you state, if the engine runs above normal temperature, the oil gets thinner, and may be too thin at elevated temperatures. With the G37 and the 370Z, the issue is based on the computer reading oil temperature only (having no idea of viscosity, of course). Oil temperature goes above some arbitrary limit (I have no idea what it is) and the engine goes into limp mode. A thicker oil (i.e. people tracking with a 40 or 50 in the things) simply gets the oil above that magical temperature number faster, and therefore into limp mode faster. So, in that case, if the oil temperatures are an issue, the solution is better oil cooling. Better cooling would reduce the chances of entering limp mode, while a heavier oil would increase the chances of entering limp mode.

Of course, if the G and Z didn't have a limp mode due to elevated oil temperatures, then absolutely, a thicker oil for tracking could be appropriate. I'm considering installing oil pressure and temperature gauges sometime down the road. The ScanGauge II can't access Nissan/Infiniti's proprietary data on those two, and I'm definitely curious about the oil temperatures. My old Audi 200 Turbo never exceeded 95 C oil temperatures, even on a hot day with sustained high boost and high speeds with thick 15w-40 in it. It had an absolutely huge oil cooler, though.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Isn't the right choice of oil the one that is the right viscosity at the temperature your engine will run at?

If an engine does not get up to the temp that the manufacturer expected when specifying the weight of oil, then it is safe to go thinner.


Absolutely. That's where knowledge of the actual oil pressures and temperatures occurring is useful to know, particularly if one knows the specified oil pressure ranges (i.e. from a shop manual). That's why Dr. Haas can do what he does. If I was short tripping my old F-150 (i.e. driving a block at a time and then cooling down, or something similarly strange), I'd run 5w-20 in the thing, regardless of the specifications, since it would never get up to temps anyhow.

As you state, if the engine runs above normal temperature, the oil gets thinner, and may be too thin at elevated temperatures. With the G37 and the 370Z, the issue is based on the computer reading oil temperature only (having no idea of viscosity, of course). Oil temperature goes above some arbitrary limit (I have no idea what it is) and the engine goes into limp mode. A thicker oil (i.e. people tracking with a 40 or 50 in the things) simply gets the oil above that magical temperature number faster, and therefore into limp mode faster. So, in that case, if the oil temperatures are an issue, the solution is better oil cooling. Better cooling would reduce the chances of entering limp mode, while a heavier oil would increase the chances of entering limp mode.

Of course, if the G and Z didn't have a limp mode due to elevated oil temperatures, then absolutely, a thicker oil for tracking could be appropriate. I'm considering installing oil pressure and temperature gauges sometime down the road. The ScanGauge II can't access Nissan/Infiniti's proprietary data on those two, and I'm definitely curious about the oil temperatures. My old Audi 200 Turbo never exceeded 95 C oil temperatures, even on a hot day with sustained high boost and high speeds with thick 15w-40 in it. It had an absolutely huge oil cooler, though.


Someone on these forums once told me that oil pressure would be constant due to the oil pump.

Based on that input, I was thinking all you needed to know was the oil viscosity at operating temp as per the product sheets, and the parameters that the manufacturer used when specifying recommended oil weight.

What else on oil pressure helps make decisions beyond those two points of reference?

Lastly, how many cars have this limp mode issue?
 
A lot of the newer "X35" BMWs do if taken to the track: 135, 335, etc. The motor gets too hot and cuts the power.
 
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Someone on these forums once told me that oil pressure would be constant due to the oil pump.


I'd find that dubious at best. If that were true, we could all run whatever the heck viscosity we wanted.

Oil pressure changes with RPMs. Pressure will also change when viscosity changes, regardless of whether that change in viscosity is due to different temperatures or due to a different grade oil. I would agree that sometimes the pressure doesn't "seem" to change. That's particularly true with cars that have idiot gauges and those gauges that don't have very high precision scales or a lot of accuracy. It was hard to compare oil pressures in the old Audi since, while the gauge behaved as expected (up and down swings quite apparent with revs, expected behaviour at cold starts versus hot idle), it was very difficult to closely compare pressures under different conditions since the thing was calibrated in bar (which is a large unit) and there were very few graduations printed on the face.

Heck, even anecdotally with my old F-150, when oil temps got hot and the thing was at idle with a 30 weight oil, the oil light would flicker, prior to the rebuild. With fresh, non-fuel diluted oil or 15w-40, it would never happen, no matter how hot the oil got.

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Based on that input, I was thinking all you needed to know was the oil viscosity at operating temp as per the product sheets, and the parameters that the manufacturer used when specifying recommended oil weight.

What else on oil pressure helps make decisions beyond those two points of reference?


I'm not so sure on that. Some vehicle literature I've seen lists pretty wide oil pressure ranges; coincidentally (or not), those vehicles also have fairly liberal oil recommendations.

Someone like CATERHAM is much more versed on kinematic viscosity and its usefulness in this situation. Haas and CATERHAM are well versed in using pressure and temperature to choose a suitable oil. From my perspective, you need the pressure values expected at operating temperature at given RPMs, from a service manual or similar source. Occasionally, they'll give a range as to what's acceptable at operating temperatures at idle and one or two other tach points. If you're outside of those values, there's a pretty good chance you're running too thick or too thin.

We also have to remember that manufacturers' specifications for pressure (and for specifying a recommended oil weight, as per your mention) depend on the oil being at a certain operating temperature or range, without completely ignoring cold starts and short trips, either (otherwise we'd all be using straight weights). For my hypothetical one block trips in my old F-150, even a 0w-20 would be too thick.

My view is that the engineers have to compromise. We know that say, a Ford Focus, isn't going to blow up if it's using 15w-40 for constant highway use (cold starts are another matter), and Dr. Haas isn't going to have catastrophic failure using 20 weight oils to get groceries in a supercar.

Simply put, lots of lubes will work. Some are just more optimal than others for different circumstances. My late model G37 specifies 5w-30. It spends almost all its parked time in a heated garage. 10w-30 certainly wouldn't be an absurd choice. My 1984 F-150 specifies everything from 5w-30 to 20w-50, depending on temperatures. It spends all its time outside, including -40 C. A 0w-30 at -40 is certainly thicker than 10w-30 at the 10 C in my garage. Basically, I'd feel a lot more comfortable running 10w-30 in the winter in my late model G37 than I would in my old F-150, even though it's speced for the F-150. Engineers have to make their recommendations based upon their best information as to how a vehicle is going to be used and what oils are available at the time and in the target market.

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Lastly, how many cars have this limp mode issue?


That's a very good question. Hopefully, the number isn't too high. The solution to high oil temperatures is to improve oil cooling, not put the engine in limp mode.
wink.gif
 
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