No!Not oil related! At least not likly. Any competent machinist or Mechanic should be able to open it up and look at bearing and valve train and tell you what happened. Usualy a craked head is from a coolant failure oil only provides at the max something like 20% of the cooling! Now if you had been driving a Formula one car hitting 24K RPM's zooming around at 220MP with Walmart 5W30 in the sump I would give the oil a closer look as the source of failure as the cooling system can only remove so much heat and if the oil totaly failed in every single consievable way which I have never seen with name brand oil in a daily driver with regular maintence. Friction cause heat so if the oil failed completly and turned to jelly in the sump or to a tar like sumbstance and could not be pumped then it is convievable you follow!
Engine worn out and cracked head, oil related?
- Thread starter Adamwest
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Buying a certified used car doesn't really mean much. It gives some slight benefit, but is basically a sales tool. Anytime you buy a used car from a lot the history is unknown. Like others have said, it was probably overheated at some point, a cracked head is usually a problem with the cooling system. Although many engines last well over 300,000 miles and more. Not knowing the history of the vehicle, 206,000 miles is a fair lifetime for an engine. JMO
Do these engines have a history of cracked heads? lots do.Dodge Magnums,Chevy Vortex etc.How about AIR filters and wear.Also some engines designs are not as long lived as you would think.200k plus IDLE time running etc.Curious to how many HPOURS are on that motor.Plus it may NOT have had OCI of 3k to 4k.
Originally Posted By: Adamwest
I was wondering about that. Despite being certified, it was a lease return that was from a contractor of some sort.
There you go. A contractor renting a truck has no vested interest in it. That's a possibilty it was whipped pretty hard.
And I used to work for a dealership "certifying" used cars. Mostly it involved making check marks on a sheet next to things you don't expect to be broken yet, rather than actually checking them.
They made me do it this way and didn't give enough time to really look at it.
If the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir was dark, we just sucked it out and replaced it. No system bleed.
This was one of the reasons I quit that job.
I was wondering about that. Despite being certified, it was a lease return that was from a contractor of some sort.
There you go. A contractor renting a truck has no vested interest in it. That's a possibilty it was whipped pretty hard.
And I used to work for a dealership "certifying" used cars. Mostly it involved making check marks on a sheet next to things you don't expect to be broken yet, rather than actually checking them.
They made me do it this way and didn't give enough time to really look at it.
If the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir was dark, we just sucked it out and replaced it. No system bleed.
This was one of the reasons I quit that job.
You did get 206K out of that engine. Yes, it is probably below average for a Toyota but it's still decent life for a truck engine. There are differences in metallurgy between each engine of the same type built that can extend or reduce its life when compared to the average. A friend of mine had a late '90's Camry that had a cracked cylinder wall around 140K miles. It started making a knocking noise we thought had something to do with the timing belt tensioner so I helped him change that. Turned out to be more serious! That's defintely below average for a Camry. I don't know the history of the car before he got it; maybe it had been driven hard with long OCI's and maybe it had some of the oil sludging issues some Toyotas are known for.
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: Adamwest
I was wondering about that. Despite being certified, it was a lease return that was from a contractor of some sort.
There you go. A contractor renting a truck has no vested interest in it. That's a possibilty it was whipped pretty hard.
And I used to work for a dealership "certifying" used cars. Mostly it involved making check marks on a sheet next to things you don't expect to be broken yet, rather than actually checking them.
They made me do it this way and didn't give enough time to really look at it.
If the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir was dark, we just sucked it out and replaced it. No system bleed.
This was one of the reasons I quit that job.
Glad you said it and I didn't. Most of those so called certified cars are lease returns, and IIRC the used car dept had to pay service a fee to certify them. Nothing more than making a few check marks and hiking the price of the car. I have friends who lease cars, and when the oil change light comes on they check the oil, turn the key to the on position and step on the gas pedal a few times. Then like magic the light goes off and its good for another OCI. Maybe in a 3 year lease the oil is changed twice, maybe. Not bashing the OP's vehicle but this is how it is done in most dealerships, and in eveyone I ever worked at.
Originally Posted By: Adamwest
I was wondering about that. Despite being certified, it was a lease return that was from a contractor of some sort.
There you go. A contractor renting a truck has no vested interest in it. That's a possibilty it was whipped pretty hard.
And I used to work for a dealership "certifying" used cars. Mostly it involved making check marks on a sheet next to things you don't expect to be broken yet, rather than actually checking them.
They made me do it this way and didn't give enough time to really look at it.
If the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir was dark, we just sucked it out and replaced it. No system bleed.
This was one of the reasons I quit that job.
Glad you said it and I didn't. Most of those so called certified cars are lease returns, and IIRC the used car dept had to pay service a fee to certify them. Nothing more than making a few check marks and hiking the price of the car. I have friends who lease cars, and when the oil change light comes on they check the oil, turn the key to the on position and step on the gas pedal a few times. Then like magic the light goes off and its good for another OCI. Maybe in a 3 year lease the oil is changed twice, maybe. Not bashing the OP's vehicle but this is how it is done in most dealerships, and in eveyone I ever worked at.
Originally Posted By: Adamwest
The leak was from the cylinder on the driver's side closest to the front grill and it would spill coolant into the exhaust. The oil was not effected and it did not go through combustion. Created a white, kind of sweet smelling steamy exhaust.
I do think the 40wt would be acceptable. I read the article by Dr. A and was thinking that with it being liquid cooled it wouldn't make much difference and the coolant temp gauge never really got close to the red zone. It does not have an oil temp gauge, but the pressure always seemed fine.
Do you think it could have overheated early in its existence and just finally showed noticeable effects?
I don't think it was a lube problem but I have to reply to this.
Dr Haas while a very smart man is a doctor. He pushes thin oils like no one's business. Contrary to what he says, oil temps on a non exchanged engine do follow ambient temps (though not in a 1:1 relationship) and engine load. Your startup and running temps in AZ would likely make the 40wt as thin as a 30wt in other cooler climates.
The leak was from the cylinder on the driver's side closest to the front grill and it would spill coolant into the exhaust. The oil was not effected and it did not go through combustion. Created a white, kind of sweet smelling steamy exhaust.
I do think the 40wt would be acceptable. I read the article by Dr. A and was thinking that with it being liquid cooled it wouldn't make much difference and the coolant temp gauge never really got close to the red zone. It does not have an oil temp gauge, but the pressure always seemed fine.
Do you think it could have overheated early in its existence and just finally showed noticeable effects?
I don't think it was a lube problem but I have to reply to this.
Dr Haas while a very smart man is a doctor. He pushes thin oils like no one's business. Contrary to what he says, oil temps on a non exchanged engine do follow ambient temps (though not in a 1:1 relationship) and engine load. Your startup and running temps in AZ would likely make the 40wt as thin as a 30wt in other cooler climates.
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Thinner runs cooler.
Not in this study: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...;gonew=1#UNREAD
Do you know a study that shows thinner=cooler?
Thinner runs cooler.
Not in this study: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...;gonew=1#UNREAD
Do you know a study that shows thinner=cooler?
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