Engine Oil for 05 XC70 2.5 Turbo

[mdocod]

We just bought a 2005 XC70 with 94K miles on it. The car is in great shape and the drive-line runs strong. I'd like to keep it that way till 200K+.

This car has the B5254T2, A 2.5L 5 cylinder VVT with low pressure water cooled turbo. By turbo standards, I wouldn't expect this engine to be hard on oil, and Volvo's scheduled maintenance seems to agree with this... If I understand correctly, Volvo specifies conventional 5w30 Castrol at 7500 mile OCI's or Castrol SLX LongLife at 18,000 miles OCI's for these engines. This vehicle was dealer serviced according to volvo schedule at roughly 7500 mile intervals so I assume they were using conventional in it. I've seen them specify 10W30 for higher temps and 5w40 for "all" temp on this engine but not specifically for this car (funny how that works).

I'm leaning towards using Rotella T6 or GC 0W30 in this thing after an ARX cycle on mobil 5000. (The ARX cycle should wrap up right around 100K, how convenient!).

I'm tempted to try a "1 year" OCI on synthetic and send in for UOA, see how it went. For us, 1 year should be in the neighborhood of 8,000-10,000 miles. If I could develop a once yearly service interval for the vehicle that would be great.

What do you guys think? Any other oils I should be looking at? Mobil 0W40 maybe? I'm leaning towards the T6 as I suspect it is a better candidate for up-to 10K intervals.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Quattro Pete]

Wasn't there some class action lawsuit related to dealers using incorrect oil in these turbo engines? They were supposed to use synthetic, but Volvo wasn't very clear on this...

Anyway, I'd personally use something meeting ACEA A3/B4 spec. From readily available oils, that means M1 0w-40, Castrol 0w-40 and 0w-30.

T6 will probably work, too.

 

[bdcardinal]

I used either GC 0W30 or M1 0W40 when I had my S60R. I think I used Pentosin 5W40 once or twice also. Changed it every 5k so I wouldn't forget. Miss that car a lot.

 

[Wampahoofus]

+1 for A3 B3/B4. I ran M1 0W-40 in my B6294S that I had in my 2000 S80 with no complaints. IIRC Volvo speced an A1/B1 for normal use and A3/B3 for severe use with that engine which (except for the turbo) is basically the same as yours. GC or T6 would be great options too.

If it hasn't been done, you may want to look into servicing the transmission and AWD components. The 5 speed autos had some early teething issues and the PTUs tended to shred bevel gears if not maintained.

 

[mdocod]

Hello Quattro!

I am not familiar with any lawsuit concerning dealer serviced oil for these cars. That peaks my curiosity. I think I'll call the dealer tomorrow and ask them what they use in those cars.

Whatever the dealer has been using must have been at least good enough, as this was the only turbo volvo we looked at with no deposits under the oil fill cap. It's unfortunate that they put a "grill" of sorts on the oil fill hole on these, hard to see down in there, but from what small glimpses I could get into the valvetrain with a strong flashlight, I did not see any sludgy deposits, just lightly varnished steel. This combined with how strong the thing runs suggests to me that the engine is in a healthy state in terms of how it has been maintained. Maybe they were using synthetic in it, or maybe the single owner little old lady story was actually true. (We found some personal effects in the car that support that "claim" so it might be true).

Thank you for for your thoughts!


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bdcardinal,

Thank you for sharing your experience. Sounds like I'm on the right track here.


---------

Wampahoofus,

I'll be swapping nearly every fluid in the car around the 100K mark to get a nice round starting point on everything. PSF, ATF, haldex, "t-case", and rear diff fluids are all coming out, but that's a discussion for a different thread

 

[bdcardinal]

As for a filter I always used a OEM filter, and I replaced the plug washer every time and the plug every 3rd change. I replace the filter cover once when mine was leaking from being cracked. I let my old work, Sears, do a change and they cracked it.

 

[mdocod]

Hmmmm....

From a 2005 owners manual for this car:

Quote:
Engine oil must meet the minimum ILSAC specification GF-2, including ACEA A1, API SJ, SJ/CF and SJ/Energy Conserving.

Your Volvo has been certified to standards using ILSAC oil specification GF-2 5W-30. Volvo recommends use of oil with a quality rating equal to or higher than ILSAC GF-2. Equivalent and better oils include ACEA A1, API SJ, SJ/CF, and SJ/Energy conserving. Lower quality oils may not offer the same fuel economy, engine performance, or engine protection.

Volvo Cars recommends Castrol.

Depending on your driving habits, premium or synthetic oils may provide superior fuel economy and engine protection. Consult your Volvo retailer for recommendations on premium or synthetic oils.

Oil additives must not be used.


NOTE: Synthetic oil is not used when the oil is changed at the normal maintenance services. This oil is only used at customer request, at additional charge. Please consult your Volvo retailer.

Oil viscosity (stable ambient temperatures)

Operation in temperate climates
Incorrect viscosity oil can shorten engine life. Under normal use when temperatures do not exceed 86 °F (30°C), SAE 5W/30 will provide good fuel economy and engine protection. See the viscosity chart below.

Operation in hot climates
When temperatures exceed 86 °F (30°C) in your area, Volvo recommends, for the protection of your engine, that you use a heavier weight oil, such as SAE 10W/30. See the viscosity chart below.

Extreme engine operation
Synthetic oils meeting SAE 10W-30 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when towing a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas.

Changing oil and oil filter
Oil and oil filter changes should be made at 7,500 mile (12,000 km) intervals.


Then there's this manual from 2006:

http://esd.volvocars.com/site/owners-information/MY06/V70/V70_XC70_owners_manual_MY06_EN_tp8170.pdf

and then this: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/pdf/VolvoOilChart2007UKv5.pdf

Seems to be some conflict about what is supposed to go in this engine. According to the manual for the specific year of that car, I should be able to use any modern 5w30 in that engine, but perhaps that isn't true, as they seem to have retracted that in later publications for vehicles with the same engine.

I hope my plan to use clean 5000 for short arx intervals isn't a problem. I'm not so sure now.

 

[umungus1122]

Walmart- Mobil 1 0w-40/ 10w-40 HM - $23.xx on 5qt. jug

 

[Kira]

Hello, I suppose you've read my response to your trannie fluid question.
Re your oil question: I'd use an A3, B3 oil because your engine is turbocharged. They get hot.
Mobil1 0W-40 European Formula
Castrol Edge 0W-30 European Formula
TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W-40.

Run your engine to operating temperature and withdraw the oil dipstick.
Stretch a tightly fitting balloon over the dipstick tube and see if it inflates.
NO INFLATION = GOOD
INFLATION = BAD There'd be a good chance the PCV system catch box is clogged. It's beneath the intake manifold. Often oil neglect fills the box with sludge. The resulting pressure (balloon expansion) will create leaks.
Synthetic oils create far less sludge so I conclude the A1,B1 conventional oil route is not the way to go.

Also, remove BOTH rear brake rotors and visually inspect the parking brakes.
The shoe lining delaminates and can destroy the mounting ears on the hub as the damaged shoes whirl around.
OK if OK. Replace with genuine Volvo brake shoes if not OK.
I'd install the aftermarket brake shoe adjuster if I were doing the job again.
The Volvo parking brakes are weak.

Also, if you have regular halogen H-7 headlights and you believe you're eating headlight bulbs just crack away the horribly cheap plastic of the lamp connector, give the female connectors a squeeze to tighten them and shove them directly on the blades of the H-7 bulb using a dab of dielectric grease.

Your battery is in the back. Service it. Heaven knows, nobody else has.

Eyeball where the exhaust hangers run close to your center driveshaft. Some AWDs had scraping issues.

As a previous poster intimated, make sure the bevel gear (he said PTO) has its fluid.

At your mileage I'd start saving for struts and shocks. I used SACHS SuperTourings in my V70.
I'm not familiar with what they have for your XC.

Your thermostat is going to go soon. The "combo" unit in your car houses both stat and sensor. Mine is an '02 with separate stat and sensor.

I've owned 2 of these and love 'em. BEST of LUCK! ! Kira

 

[artificialist]

Your manual may say conventional or synblend is allowed, but you should never use it. Every turbocharged Volvo I worked on was heavily varnished using conventional oil, even when changed every 3000 miles.

 

[addyguy]

M1 0W-40 would get my vote.

 

[mdocod]

Hi Kira,

The dealer replaced the PCV "system" (separator assembly) on the vehicles last visit before it was traded in (92.5K).

I'll make a note on my to do list to inspect the rear brakes as soon as possible. Thanks for the heads up.... I was actually planning on just replacing all the brake pads and rotor's on this thing anyway right at around 100K as they are getting close to being "spent" if you know what I mean. (car stops great, but pads and rotors are both getting thin).

Not sure I follow the logic on replacing shoes that are prone to delamination with another from the same OE source at twice the price of reputable alternatives.

 

[magnus308]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Your manual may say conventional or synblend is allowed, but you should never use it. Every turbocharged Volvo I worked on was heavily varnished using conventional oil, even when changed every 3000 miles.


+1 on that!

Conventional or semi-syn should never be used in any Volvo manufactured the last 15 years even if its not a turbo.
It mess up and kills the PCV system which will blow out the camshaft seals or cause a lot of other expensive issues.
The PCV repair itself is a 500 USD repair.

I don't understand why Volvo cant keep their ownership manuals updated or educate the dealers, It took years before they even corrected the PS fluid in the manual.

As I wrote before and I write it again one of the most expensive things you can do with a Turbo Volvo is to use conventional oil in it.

 

[chrisri]

I would use ACEA A5/B5 specified oil in a Volvo. Various 0/5w30 are available. Failing that use A3/B4 specified oil.

 

[Kira]

Regarding the specter of delaminated brake shoes' linings destroying the hub hardware mounting ears etc., you said, "Not sure I follow the logic on replacing shoes that are prone to delamination with another from the same OE source at twice the price of reputable alternatives."

It appears the glue fails on all of them and they all delaminate. The idea is to keep inspecting them. The recommendation of many on the Volvo boards comes from the assertion that the Volvo brake shoes grab better (less roll-back upon application).

You're going to be inspecting them bi-annually at least; might as well use the ones which work best, I'm told.

I've also read where people occasionally apply the handbrake while moving to dry them-thus extending their lives. Kira

 

[wemay]

Although i would probably use at least a blend or HDEO today (because of bitog instilled paranoia), I once owned a Volvo 740 Turbo back in the mid to late 90's that had accumulated over 200,000 miles between me (second owner) and the original purchaser. I gave this car to my sister who moved out west and put another 60,000 miles on the odo before trading it in for something newer due to electrical problems. This car never saw a drop of synthetic during it's stay in our family, only conventional PCMO. Not one problem. Maybe we were lucky.

ILSAC GF-5 was created with Turbo protection in mind:

Wear Protection
http://www.gf-5.com/news_and_events/additional-key-additives/
'...Many vehicle manufacturers are using turbo charging to improve fuel economy while maintaining or even improving performance. Turbo chargers are powered by your vehicle exhaust which means they are exposed to very high temperatures. Without properly formulated engine oils such as ILSAC GF-5, this high temperature can lead to coking deposits of charred oil in the turbo. Lubrizol’s detergent and antioxidant system maintains cleanliness of critical turbocharger parts under the most demanding conditions to maintain performance and longer engine life.

Lubrizol has tested our ILSAC GF-5 engine oil additives in the most demanding real world driving in the heat of the deserts of Arizona and the congestion of Las Vegas. Our million-mile plus field trails clearly shows ILSAC GF-5 products are up to the challenge of providing outstanding protection from engine wear. All current and newly introduced engine technologies were tested including the latest GDI (gasoline direct injection) twin turbo changed engine in the 2010 Ford Flex. ILSAC GF-5 will keep your engine running like new and provide protection from wear no matter if you drive an older car or the latest high tech vehicle...'

 

[magnus308]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Although i would probably use at least a blend or HDEO today (because of bitog instilled paranoia), I once owned a Volvo 740 Turbo back in the mid to late 90's that had accumulated over 200,000 miles between me (second owner) and the original purchaser. I gave this car to my sister who moved out west and put another 60,000 miles on the odo before trading it in for something newer due to electrical problems. This car never saw a drop of synthetic during it's stay in our family, only conventional PCMO. Not one problem. Maybe we were lucky.


The 740 have the old redblock engine which was more or less bulletproof and im not surprised it did not have any issues, They could withstand very much abuse.

Its the whiteblock engines that is used on Volvo 850, S60, S80, V70 etc.. That have sensitive PCV systems that can give a lot of headache.

 

[wemay]

Got it and thank you for delineating the difference.

 

[mdocod]

So gauging the overall response here, it seems most everyone thinks I should avoid the use of any conventional oil in this engine even if only for 2 short intervals to maximize the effectiveness of ARX.

I can always just use T6 for the ARX treatment, last I checked it's still a group III. Though I'd be very surprised if we did more harm than good on the clean 5000 for an ARX treatment. It's not like this is a track day car or something. My wife is scared of the accelerator pedal on it anyway and she is the primary driver.

 

[magnus308]

Originally Posted By: mdocod
So gauging the overall response here, it seems most everyone thinks I should avoid the use of any conventional oil in this engine even if only for 2 short intervals to maximize the effectiveness of ARX.


Why do you want to use ARX?
The B5254T2 engine that you have is very failsafe mechanical and i dont see any reason to use ARX at all, It actually dont even have hydraulic lifters.
Save your money from ARX and spend them on one extra shorter oilchange interval instead to flush out old oil and gunk..