Originally Posted By: NHGUY
If you really did spin a bearing,running it is going to make it worse.Goodbye crankshaft and possibly goodbye connecting rod and any other block material if the rod breaks off at the bearing cap.You would be starving that journal of oil.
Agreed! The more you drive it, the worse it will get, like within a few miles.
A rod bearing comes in two pieces, (top and bottom). My experience has been that usually the bottom bearing "slides" to the top so that now, both bearings are on the top which creates a large space on the bottom. The noise is the rod "slapping" or "bouncing" back and forth on the crank. The more it "knocks" back and forth, the more destruction of rod cap and crankshaft. You'll have little or no oil pressure, (even with plenty of oil) and eventually you'll either lock up the motor or throw a rod. If you throw a rod, it might knock a hole in the side of the block and that will be the end of the motor.
How easy is it to drop the oil pan? If it's easy to drop, you can drop the pan and check for rod play, (simply grab the bottom of the rods and see if you can wiggle them back and forth. If you have a spun bearing, you will be able to move them with your hand).
If it is a rod bearing, the expensive way is to have the crank removed, turned and new bearings installed. The cheap way, (which I have done), is to drop the pan, remove the cap on the bad bearing, clean the crankshaft with emery cloth, and install a new standard size bearing. It's a gamble as depending on the damage done it might work and it might not. The expense of the cheap way is the price of the bearing, oil pan gasket, and of course the oil and filter, (this is all assuming the pan is easy to remove).