Engine internals rusting and rust prevention oil

[TexasTea]

Hi all,


I have engines that are not classic/hot-rod but that still sit for long periods of time throughout the year and rust inside the engine is something i worry about whether it even happens and if it does, if my oil is protecting against it.

Just looking for some info on engine internals rusting and rust prevention through oils

 

[Nickdfresh]

All oils have anti-corrosion agents in them. I've never heard of this being a major problem...

 

[MolaKule]

My advice is to squirt new engine oil into each cylinder, turn the crank over by hand, and replace the plugs.

In the spring before you fire it up, turn it over by hand again a few times.

If you do not want to do the above, run the engine occasionally during storage. This is what I intend to do with my S-10.

 

[TexasTea]

my concern lies in the development of rust internally, above and below the cylinders/pistons in engines that sit for longer than say 2 years at a time. can cam shafts surfast rust? etc. can lifters or lifter bores rust during sitting?

above the cylinder is kinda worrying too, can rocker arms and springs begin to rust? things of that nature.

 

[Dave Sherman]

My MG sat in a garage for 18 years without running. There was some corrosion taking place outside (frozen door locks, rusty brake rotors), but the cylinder bores, valve train, and the insides of the block were spotless, and has run fine since I resurrected it. Unless it's stored outdoors, probably not much of an issue.

 

[BrocLuno]

The only way rust can form is if a part is exposed to circulating air. Go to a dismantler and look at engines that have been sitting for years. No rust inside unless they were partially torn down.

But, the one cylinder that has an exhaust valve or intake valve open when it stops can have an issue.

SAE 30 HD straight oil (no VII's) is best at rust prevention. Use it if it will be sitting for long periods. Best at upper cylinder protection https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4213517/4 See chart.

Also, you should fog the cylinders before shut down. Winterizing outboards and marine engines includes fogging the cylinders. Has been standard practice for eons

 

[Chris142]

IMO its a non issue unless it gets rain in it or washed and water gets into it.. With that said. My peterbilt sat 20+ years. It fired up with new batteries and I drove it home.

 

[Kawiguy454]

It can be a problem if you have a detached/cold garage in the winter and fire up a heater regularly for a few hours to tinker. the cold metal condenses humidity in the air. maybe not so much inside the motor but still...

 

[BobsArmory]

Amsoil has a couple different oils that you might be interested in. One is called Z-Rod, made for infrequently used classic cars and comes in a couple different weights and the other is Formula 4 stroke Power Sports Motor oil 0w-40. They state, " It is anti-rust fortified for superior rust prevention, which is especially important in seasonally or infrequently used equipment."

I use the power sports oil in my ATV and my brother in law uses the Z-Rod in a couple of 70's era cars that are only run a couple times a year. We have had good results with them.

 

[bluestream]

Use oil with a vapor phase inhibitor

 

[Ducked]

Probably not much of an issue, but, in addition to the above advice, perhaps you could stick a dessicant sachet in the exhaust and air intake, and then plug/cover them.

(I've seen it claimed that straight weight mineral oils are best for preventing corrosion when unused, in a light aircraft context.)

 

[ShotGun429]

I store cars for my self and others in a heated block garage, it really makes a difference in engine,gas tank rust,etc.....we keep the temp at maintenance levels 50-55 degrees (winter) and it makes a world of difference. i rebuild engines for a living so i see it all. gregg

 

[PeterPolyol]

Yeah temperature is a huge consideration. If you store an engine in a cold environment, it's a good idea NOT to start it up occasionally 'to get the juices flowing' or even just to move it, if you can avoid that situation. If you do start it up in the cold, it's wise to let it warm up fully if possible. The reason being that the products of combustion and thus the blowby introduce high moisture into the crankcase and if the steel/iron parts remain cold at shutdown, that moisture condenses on them.

 

[whosmatt]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno


Also, you should fog the cylinders before shut down. Winterizing outboards and marine engines includes fogging the cylinders. Has been standard practice for eons

^This. Also top up the gas tank and treat with Stabil.

 

[SonofJoe]

Oil wise, get an thicker grade oil with the highest TBN you can find and preferably one that's been formulated with Magnesium as opposed to Calcium.
Agree that corrosion tends not to be considered much of an issue these days and any oil with a TBN of 5 or more will pass the industry standard Ball Rust Test. However if you want more protection, higher TBN and Mg are the way to go.

 

[Nick1994]

So, why not just start the engines every once in a while if you're concerned?

Or sell them.

 

[KL31]

Well, I have two brand new short blocks which have some assembly lube/goo and are in a plastic bag, inside a cardboard box. No rust yet and have been like that for probably over a decade.

Also, my old engine was taken apart and left open in a garage. No rust, just spiders and dust.

Unless you live within a few hundred metres of the ocean, you should be ok!

 

[jayg]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
So, why not just start the engines every once in a while if you're concerned?

Or sell them.


Never just start an engine on a classic car unless you are going to drive it and get it up to temp. Starting it for a few minutes and shutting it off is when condensation occurs and that does more damage than putting them up hot and letting them sit.

 

[BrocLuno]

+1

Absolutely. If you are not going to run the snot out of it, leave it shut off ...

 

[Shata]

On sealed engine you won't have rust, for very long storage id put rags in intake to seal that from air and call it a day.
Depending on how new engine is honestly on modern engines like mine I'd be more worried about lifter leak down over time then rust lol.