How can you tell (w/o a used oil analysis) if an engine is hard on oil? Is it mechanical complexity such as DOHC and multi-valves. Is it sump capacity? Is it a combination? The reason I am asking is my 1994 Nissan truck has the 3.0 SOHC and a total 3.5 qt capacity. Summer is coming and I am ready to get the 5w out of there. I use dino in it now but may switch to a syn such as M1 T&S. I have used the Mobil blend in 10w-40 and it did fine last summer.
Engine hard on oil?
- Thread starter ncirish
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With only 3.5 quarts. I think its safe to say it will be hard on the oil. My 800cc motorcycle holds more then that. Maybe there is a bigger filter you could use to get it up to 4.0 qts.
I have a 93 Sentra, and would say it is hard on oil. How do I conclude that? Two leaking/baked oil pan gaskets, front main seal, valve cover gasket, and oil sending unit later...This engine seems to generate a lot of heat. Auto-RX and Fuel Power 60 are cleaning things well. It has never run better. I think you are on the right track, using synthetic oil. I am using Havoline with some Mola’s Brew (132 and LC20). I have the same sump capacity as you. Runs like a demon at high RPM's, but I think the oil works very hard. I will be going to an oversized filter when I use up my OEM ones.
My wife's Aerostar has a 3.0 with a 4.5 qt capacity and that is a pushrod engine. In your case I would consider Redline as it will take the heat. Also, unless you have oil pressure problems I would think you should be running 10w30, not 10w40, or does the maunal say to run the 40?
TallPaul, the manual allows for almost any oil but a 40wt is in there for temps above something like 40 degrees. I would love to run a 30wt but there are not any thick ones (above 10 or so cst such as Mobil 1) readily available in my area since AZone here has discontinued the GC on its shelves. I even thought about Mobil 1 0w-40 since it is thin for a 40wt. I have even thought about Delo in 10w30 if my NAPA can special order it.
I wonder if you can get Citgo Ultralife high mileage oil. The SL formulation was listed at 12 cSt for 10w30 and had around 1200 ppm zinc and phosphorus. At least that is what I recall from tech data sheets and VOA/UOA info. Don't know if they went SM yet or even will. Probably NAPA can get you the 10w30 HDMO, but you also may want to try some truck and or tractor supply outlets.
I have seriously thought about the high mileage oils but have refrained based on some conjecture on this board and from Frank. With the new grpIII base oils coming out, those may be something to look at. I just do not want an oil that will "cook" near the combustion chamber (like on my 2000 Trooper!!!!!) due to high temps, stress, etc. The summers around here are HOT, daily temps in the mid-high 90's with humidity just south of rain forest levels. My worry is that if I combine the heat, low sump capacity, aluminum engine, air conditioning, freeway driving (4.69:1 gearing), and conventional oil that it could be a bad combination.
I guess, if you can afford it, Redline would be a killer oil for your application and it is chok full of goodies like about 1400 ppm zddp and 600 ppm moly. Its ester is able to take the heat better than conventional or PAO. Easy to get by mail order if not locally available, but Advance Auto can get it for you and may still have some on its $5.95 discount price to clear the shelves (will be catalog only after that I am told). The Redline may show higher wear numbers at first, but not bad as it is the transition and then settles out.
Actually the Maxlife Synthetic looks really good at 11.5 cSt 100C (30 weight) and gobs of calcium (3870 ppm) plus moly. Bet it would do well in your engine.
Triple_Se7en
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Actually the Maxlife Synthetic looks really good at 11.5 cSt 100C (30 weight) and gobs of calcium (3870 ppm) plus moly. Bet it would do well in your engine.
Bet it would do well in ANY engine! This is a top-tier oil for sure.
Actually the Maxlife Synthetic looks really good at 11.5 cSt 100C (30 weight) and gobs of calcium (3870 ppm) plus moly. Bet it would do well in your engine.
Bet it would do well in ANY engine! This is a top-tier oil for sure.
Yeah, I think I should return my 5 qts Synpower 10w30 for Maxlife Synthetic.
TallPaul, I had not thought of Maxlife Synthetic! What a doofuss I am! I even started to read up on Redline oils and they sound great but pricey. I will shoot by the Advance Auto and get me 4qts of Maxlife Syn tomorrow.
That's OK I totally forgot about Maxlife Synthetic too until I responded to THIS THREAD.
Is there a VOA or a used oil analysis comparing the 5w30 and 10w30 on this oil? It looks good from what I can remember but my computer is balking in the search function.
Triple_Se7en
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I will shoot by the Advance Auto and get me 4qts of Maxlife Syn tomorrow.
Not allowed! Posters with rafter-high oil jug stashes in their garage can no longer buy more... effective May 1st 2005 (BITOG Rule).... lol
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I will shoot by the Advance Auto and get me 4qts of Maxlife Syn tomorrow.
Not allowed! Posters with rafter-high oil jug stashes in their garage can no longer buy more... effective May 1st 2005 (BITOG Rule).... lol
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Well, I have a wall high stash in my cellar. Yeah, the cellar. Have to store it like a good bottle of wine. This is motor oil we are talking about, not windshild washer fluid which is fine to store anywhere (even used it to weigh down the tarp that protected our 16 by 20 foot snow cave through warm spells and rains--cave gone now though).
So, no more oil eh. Well good thing I got my 179 quarts before the new rule went into effect. Today I did the only thing left permissible and rejuggled my stash. I am now proudly less 5 quarts Synpower, and more 5 quarts Maxlife Synthetic. Good move thanks to Wally. And since it was 10w30 I got rid of that pesky starburst symbol spoiling my otherwise beautiful labels. Ahhhhhh oil, lovely oil, sigh!
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