Engine Flush questions (not ARX)

[kickster]

Other than A-RX what other brand of Engine Flush
do you suggest I should use? It has to be strong enough to clean an old engine out yet easy on gaskets. STP bottle says it reconditions gaskets. Has any one used it? What about AMSOIL engine Flush? Is it harsh on the gaskets?

After draining the old oil+engine flush there are still some cleaner left in the crank case. There is no way to get it all out. Is it safe to pour the new oil and drive on? Does not the left over engine flush break down the new oil?

 

[buster]

I'd only use Auto-Rx or a strong deisel oil like Delvac 1. Amsoil's engine flush is fine but I don't know anything about how well it works. For $20, I'd use the Rx.

 

[unDummy]

I've never had any problems with any of the 5-10 minute over the counter cold engine flushes.
Also kerosene/biodiesel can also be used. I wouldn't use normal diesel since it isn't a clean fuel.

Note that it takes more time to clean out any buildup that isn't directly sprayed with oil. This means that the 5-10 minute engine flushes rarely strip valvecovers clean which is a good thing. They work best where there is oil flow and pressure.
A long term cleaning, using Rislone/MarvelMysteryOil/Lubegard/Autorx/dieselmotoroil/more frequent OCIs, would do a better job on deposits created by oil splashing/dripping....like under the valve covers or anywhere with no real oil pressure or flow.

One thing to consider is the effect on completely wasted seals or gaskets. Sometimes "sludge" or other deposits are forming the seal. If you wash it out, you could start a leak.

A good diesel oil, as mentioned, would be a better bet. Rotella T 5w40 is well priced at Walmart if Delvac1 isn't around.

 

[kickster]

Is running diesel oil for 5000KM harms anything? If not then why not run Diesel oil at all times?

 

[SteveD2]

quote:

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Originally posted by kickster:
Is running diesel oil for 5000KM harms anything? If not then why not run Diesel oil at all times?

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Alot of people do. I'm going to be using Delo 15w40 at the next change for my Jeep...

 

[Primus]

Depends a lot of the flush purpose, how clean/dirty is your engine and types of deposits. Notice that 10-15 % of oil usually remain in the engine after the oil drain, these remains will also contain % of flush. Given many 5 minutes flushes are kerosene based or pure kerosene your new oil will get a different viscosity.

I tried different stuffs in my first car and found that the best and most safe was diesel engine oil (CH-4/SJ) for 500-700 km. Now decent additives are offered by Motul (Engine clean) and Liqui-Moly (Motor clean from its "professional" line). Based on appearance their carrier is a light weight oil. Manufacturers recommend to put additive into the oil before the drain and run the engine for 10-15 min. at iddling speed. Stuffs work really well, but don't help in all engine areas equally: somewhere they don't work at all or the effect is nearly invisible. Now, if I need to clean the engine, I would try one of them before the oil change, than put 10w30 diesel oil first for 200-300 km and the next time for 800-1000 km. After this I would use my favorite oil, but its first interval will be reduced by 50 %.

 

[T-Keith]

I think it's been stated before that most flushes are diesel fuel or kerosene and can be hard on seals. They are not a good way to clean an engine, Try the heavy duty diesel oil, some have stated it worked very well in cleaning their engine.

-T

 

[JohnBrowning]

Auto-Rx is best! Nuetra131 and Lube COntrol are next!

THeir are no cheap over the counter flush's that both work and are safe for seals. Even strong solvents like B-12 have limitations! A strong solvent can not be left in the engine for more then about 15-20 minutes at fast idle with no load. Second a strong solvent can not disolve all the sludge in the engine in 15 minutes! Third a strong solvent is going to weakin the oils lubricateing abilitys! Forth their is always a chance taht a huge piece of sludge might break free pluging up the oiling system.

The few solvents that have been tested not to destroy an engine with long term use are Nuetra131 and LC.

Most of the flush's you see at part stores are nothing more then wallet lightner! If you have something simple like a ticking lifter MMO can fix that. IF you just want to clean an engine out before switching to synthetic a bottle of B-12 will take care of that as well.

Truely if you have sludged up beast your best course of actionis to save up for Auto-Rx, Lube COntrol or a lot of Nuetra so you can do it every oil change for 500 miles!

 

[JohnBrowning]

B-12 is full of harsh solvents. I have never had a seal issue useing B-12 on just about everything I have ever owned! THe problem with strong solvents is that the potenial is always their. If you put B-12 into an engine that has dry rotted seals then I am almost sure that the already chemical damaged seal material is going to be further damaged. I am not sure about Amsoil since they do not disclose their products ingredients onthe side of the can like B-12 does. I am sure it is solvent based though. The problem is that the cars that most need flushing are the ones least likely to benifit from it. A car that is well maintained is not likely to have dry rotted seals!

Auto-Rx works, it is gentle and works over 1500 miles. Auto-Rx will not hurt seals at all and if anything will help them! At $20 a bottle their is very little excuse not to use it at least once! Their is no other product hta offfers a money back gurantee to remove sludge!

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

>>>What about AMSOIL engine Flush? Is it harsh on the gaskets?
Mechanic picked up a used VW engine. Had been using AMSOIL flush, decided maybe it was too expensive. He put in fresh oil, and a can of Gunk engine flush. Ran for 1/2 hour, drained. Oil appeared very clean. Put in fresh oil, added AMSOIL engine flush, ran for 20 minutes. Oil came out very black. Maybe not very scientific, but he still uses the AMSOIL.

I've not had a single customer, in the almost 20 years AMSOIL has had the flush, tell me about any problem. Use of the flush cut complaints about excess oil consumption after change by about 75%.
Dirty oil doesn't seal as well as clean oil.

 

[Spector]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Auto-Rx works, it is gentle and works over 1500 miles.

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Really 3500 miles with the rinse. That is, in some cases, a down side to this product. If you want to get that GC or Redline or Amsoil in there 3500 miles is a long time to wait!

 

[TooSlick]

I've used the Amsoil flush on countless engines over the years and never had any problems with it. It does a very good job if you run it in there for 30 minutes at two times the normal idle speed, with the engine in neutral. You also want to make sure you install a new oil filter first before running the flush, to capture any contaminents that are loosened up.

I'd also recommend using the Amsoil flush every 30k-50k miles as part of your normal maintenance program, if you are running conventional oil in your engine. It will help keep deposits from building up and will keep the hydraulic valve lifters nice and quiet.

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics

 

[Dropout]

If diesel oil is used as a flush, what would the process be? 100 miles, 20 minutes, or the next oil drain?

Will diesel oil harm a gas engine?

Ethan

 

[unDummy]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dropout:
If diesel oil is used as a flush, what would the process be? 100 miles, 20 minutes, or the next oil drain?

Will diesel oil harm a gas engine?

Ethan

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No harm. Use it for 3-5k miles like a normal oil change interval.

 

[satterfi]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dropout:
If diesel oil is used as a flush, what would the process be? 100 miles, 20 minutes, or the next oil drain?

Will diesel oil harm a gas engine?

Ethan

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I don't think a diesel oil like Delvac can be considered a flush. Add some LC or Nuetra and toss in a quart of Redline for some esters might be a good cocktail for a slow cleaning process over a couple 3k mile OICs.

That's my plan for an '89 Honda.

 

[n8wvi]

Doesn't LubeGuard make an engine oil flush? Their trans products are very highly regarded, even here on this board

Dave

 

[Bror Jace]

I like to add about 1oz of Neutra to the crankcase about 100 miles before a change ... if I am not doing a used oil analysis.

Safe, cheap and conservative.

I favor slower, more gradual cleaning as opposed to the more severe treatments. None of my vehicles are basket cases needing extreme measures.

--- Bror Jace