Engine consumes no oil at all, how good a sign?
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Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Who wants to see a Volvo do 90?
One at a time. I found these. 1 is Normal...
Normal
.. and the other two: Are quite something.
Burst..
... aaand WORK IT! WOW!
Me thinks that.. If this gentleman were to have A-RX in there.. that whatever it was going to do, if anything.. it would be worked in VERY well.
Boston!
Quote:
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I agree 110%.
Wait, did you get that? Ha!
Yup, I get it.
Y'all lost me...
Originally Posted By: skyship
Umm! I would not do a long OCI with any solvent additive in use, they nearly all interefere with the oils own additives and can cause premature shearing of the base stock, assuming the turbo feed line does not get blocked and cause a more serious problem.
If you have a sludger and don't want to clean it properly by removing the sump and head, then use an idle only flush just before every oil change. Liqui Moly and Amsoil both make good pre OCI flush additives that are safe to use. Then switch to a high Ca (Detergent) content, HM or one of the major brand full synthetic oils to help clean the engine BUT with a shorter OCI if it goes black very quickly.
The dipstick picture would indicate the engine is not sludged, so the snake oil was not required.
So.. I should change more like 3k OCI? 4k?
I agree, the engine appears to be in very good shape, and I need to settle in on the Synpower, 6th quart Redline, and leave it be.
I would dump it fairly soon then switch to either a major brand full synthetic with a long OCI, or a major brand conventional with a shorter OCI. For an engine in good condition the former is best, BUT for an engine in poor condition the latter is better because you dump the contaminants like coolant and fuel more frequently.
If you want to know a particular engines max OCI check Castrol in the UK or Liqui Moly in Germany, as their sites do list US cars and give sensible advice on oil type and OCI, rather than the nonsense put out because of the car munfacturers chasing max fuel economy figures.
LM in Germany:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/web.n...voiladb=web.nsf
Castrol in the UK.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectionbodycopy.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7073092
Once you have checked which oil and OCI are best, then cross check the US site, as some labels are different. (Mobil & Shell also have UK sites)
Who wants to see a Volvo do 90?
One at a time. I found these. 1 is Normal...
Normal
.. and the other two: Are quite something.
Burst..
... aaand WORK IT! WOW!
Me thinks that.. If this gentleman were to have A-RX in there.. that whatever it was going to do, if anything.. it would be worked in VERY well.
Boston!
Quote:
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I agree 110%.
Wait, did you get that? Ha!
Yup, I get it.
Y'all lost me...
Originally Posted By: skyship
Umm! I would not do a long OCI with any solvent additive in use, they nearly all interefere with the oils own additives and can cause premature shearing of the base stock, assuming the turbo feed line does not get blocked and cause a more serious problem.
If you have a sludger and don't want to clean it properly by removing the sump and head, then use an idle only flush just before every oil change. Liqui Moly and Amsoil both make good pre OCI flush additives that are safe to use. Then switch to a high Ca (Detergent) content, HM or one of the major brand full synthetic oils to help clean the engine BUT with a shorter OCI if it goes black very quickly.
The dipstick picture would indicate the engine is not sludged, so the snake oil was not required.
So.. I should change more like 3k OCI? 4k?
I agree, the engine appears to be in very good shape, and I need to settle in on the Synpower, 6th quart Redline, and leave it be.
I would dump it fairly soon then switch to either a major brand full synthetic with a long OCI, or a major brand conventional with a shorter OCI. For an engine in good condition the former is best, BUT for an engine in poor condition the latter is better because you dump the contaminants like coolant and fuel more frequently.
If you want to know a particular engines max OCI check Castrol in the UK or Liqui Moly in Germany, as their sites do list US cars and give sensible advice on oil type and OCI, rather than the nonsense put out because of the car munfacturers chasing max fuel economy figures.
LM in Germany:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/web.n...voiladb=web.nsf
Castrol in the UK.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectionbodycopy.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7073092
Once you have checked which oil and OCI are best, then cross check the US site, as some labels are different. (Mobil & Shell also have UK sites)
Originally Posted By: skyship
Umm! I would not do a long OCI with any solvent additive in use, they nearly all interefere with the oils own additives and can cause premature shearing of the base stock, assuming the turbo feed line does not get blocked and cause a more serious problem.
If you have a sludger and don't want to clean it properly by removing the sump and head, then use an idle only flush just before every oil change. Liqui Moly and Amsoil both make good pre OCI flush additives that are safe to use. Then switch to a high Ca (Detergent) content, HM or one of the major brand full synthetic oils to help clean the engine BUT with a shorter OCI if it goes black very quickly.
The dipstick picture would indicate the engine is not sludged, so the snake oil was not required.
AutoRX is not a solvent. It does not affect the chemistry of an oil.
Adding it to Redline was just dumb, though. ARX's site clearly states that ester based oils like Redline and ARX don't get along.
Umm! I would not do a long OCI with any solvent additive in use, they nearly all interefere with the oils own additives and can cause premature shearing of the base stock, assuming the turbo feed line does not get blocked and cause a more serious problem.
If you have a sludger and don't want to clean it properly by removing the sump and head, then use an idle only flush just before every oil change. Liqui Moly and Amsoil both make good pre OCI flush additives that are safe to use. Then switch to a high Ca (Detergent) content, HM or one of the major brand full synthetic oils to help clean the engine BUT with a shorter OCI if it goes black very quickly.
The dipstick picture would indicate the engine is not sludged, so the snake oil was not required.
AutoRX is not a solvent. It does not affect the chemistry of an oil.
Adding it to Redline was just dumb, though. ARX's site clearly states that ester based oils like Redline and ARX don't get along.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
AutoRX is not a solvent. It does not affect the chemistry of an oil.
Adding it to Redline was just dumb, though. ARX's site clearly states that ester based oils like Redline and ARX don't get along.
This engine takes 6 quarts.
In this crankcase, for ~2k miles thus far:
Quart 1: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 2: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 3: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 4: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 5: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 6: Redline 5W-20
This thus used up what was on hand.
For the next fill,:
Quart 1: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 2: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 3: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 4: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 5: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 6: Redline 0W-20 (thin 30-weight)
AutoRX is not a solvent. It does not affect the chemistry of an oil.
Adding it to Redline was just dumb, though. ARX's site clearly states that ester based oils like Redline and ARX don't get along.
This engine takes 6 quarts.
In this crankcase, for ~2k miles thus far:
Quart 1: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 2: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 3: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 4: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 5: Valvoline Nextgen 5w30 (Green bottle)
Quart 6: Redline 5W-20
This thus used up what was on hand.
For the next fill,:
Quart 1: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 2: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 3: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 4: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 5: Valvoline SynPower 5w30 (5-quart jug, quarts 1-5)
Quart 6: Redline 0W-20 (thin 30-weight)
You guys think I got a good engine? How does it sound?
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
You guys think I got a good engine? How does it sound?
Yeah the oil condition looked ok, especially considering you've got autorx in there. And if there were any major oil consumption you would have noticed it already. So yeah, I say you've got nothing to worry about.
You guys think I got a good engine? How does it sound?
Yeah the oil condition looked ok, especially considering you've got autorx in there. And if there were any major oil consumption you would have noticed it already. So yeah, I say you've got nothing to worry about.
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Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
You guys think I got a good engine? How does it sound?
Yeah the oil condition looked ok, especially considering you've got autorx in there. And if there were any major oil consumption you would have noticed it already. So yeah, I say you've got nothing to worry about.
Thank you, uart!
Also. I have changed plans.. This will be my next fill, the 6th quart is Synpower! (Then, I will settle on Synpower with the 6th, or 5th and 6th quart, Redline.)
As usual, I bought the last ones!
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
You guys think I got a good engine? How does it sound?
Yeah the oil condition looked ok, especially considering you've got autorx in there. And if there were any major oil consumption you would have noticed it already. So yeah, I say you've got nothing to worry about.
Thank you, uart!
Also. I have changed plans.. This will be my next fill, the 6th quart is Synpower! (Then, I will settle on Synpower with the 6th, or 5th and 6th quart, Redline.)
As usual, I bought the last ones!
does one mean the level never changes on the dipstick or that it is within the hash marks? Obviously within the hash marks means it is using oil but no oil needs to be added (unless one is on this forum)
I actually have one that uses none or rather cannot see any change in the level on the dipstick in 5000 miles. My new one though does use a little especially at interstate speeds. Of all the cars I have owned had only one that the level did not change
I actually have one that uses none or rather cannot see any change in the level on the dipstick in 5000 miles. My new one though does use a little especially at interstate speeds. Of all the cars I have owned had only one that the level did not change
That Rotella variety is the same stuff I was using in my 89 Accord for the final few years I had it (over 350,000 miles on the clock).
The car suffered from a bit of oil consumption through valve stem seals and guides. Compression was fine and it ran well. I used 10W-30 synthetic in it for most of its life. The Rotella 5W-40 cut the consumption down to less than a half quart every couple thousand miles. I might have seen a slight loss in fuel economy, but it was not terribly significant.
The car suffered from a bit of oil consumption through valve stem seals and guides. Compression was fine and it ran well. I used 10W-30 synthetic in it for most of its life. The Rotella 5W-40 cut the consumption down to less than a half quart every couple thousand miles. I might have seen a slight loss in fuel economy, but it was not terribly significant.
Yeah I think that engine will love the T6.
I wish we could get T6 here in Australia, but for some reason shell doesn't distribute it here.
BTW. I wouldn't bother messing with those odd quarts. At most places you get a much better price on 4 or 5 quart jugs than you do on one quart bottles. Just buy 2x one gallon jugs and you'll only need 1x one gallon every second change.
BTW. I wouldn't bother messing with those odd quarts. At most places you get a much better price on 4 or 5 quart jugs than you do on one quart bottles. Just buy 2x one gallon jugs and you'll only need 1x one gallon every second change.
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GHT - have you returned oil twice now?
Put the redbull down. Go put in more hours working if you have this much time/energy - then you can afford to listen to the maintenance advice given on BITOG.
Put the redbull down. Go put in more hours working if you have this much time/energy - then you can afford to listen to the maintenance advice given on BITOG.
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