No oil burn either.Be careful extrapolating from what you can see to what you cannot see.
No oil burn either.Be careful extrapolating from what you can see to what you cannot see.
That is sparkly clean but also the 1GR-FE is pretty hardy and not hard on oil. It can leak though…View attachment 307222
This was my beloved 2015 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L at 137K. I would have loved to see what it looked like under the valve cover. Amsoil XL was used 99% of its life. 5500-6500 oci
very similar to my van then. No burning or oil loss, but loaded with varnish up top.No oil burn either.
Well said! I have also used Auto RX in the past with great results and more recently have used Valvoline Restore and Protect with great results. Just because the auto parts stores are full of cleaning products that do very little doesn’t mean there aren’t a few out there that actually make a differenceI am in 100% disagreement with the thread title; it leads one to conclude that all products are incapable of cleaning.
I have used ARX (many years ago) with excellent results regarding stuck piston rings.
I have seen exemplary evidence of various HPL products cleaning engine internals.
No product is perfect, and no situation is immune from concerns. And to be fair, there certainly are some products out in the market that are shady scams; I'll not deny that. But to imply (or outwardly state) that all cleaning products are "snake oil" is very far from the truth.
The guy you responded to had the 2015 Tacoma that looks brand new inside.very similar to my van then. No burning or oil loss, but loaded with varnish up top.
Valvoline Restore and Protect worked a small miracle. And while it never really burned oil, I definitely see better engine running and higher MPG after the Valvoline Restore and Protect experiment cleaned it out.
An engine that dirty needs a slow and less aggressive cleaning approach like HPL or Valvoline Restore and Protect in my view.Throw Valvoline Restore and Protect in and don't look back. Get the oil hot and let it do its thing going forward. That's what I would do. Or purchase Valvoline Premium Blue Restore for one interval then move on to Valvoline Restore and Protect.
BG also makes an additive for this type of buildup. BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-dynamic-engine-cleaner/#Specificationsins_tab
Before:
After:
What drain intervals were you running? PP has never been that great. Its oxidation resistance was never even close to that of Mobil 1 Extended Performance.I had to change a Valve Cover/Gasket because it was leaking oil onto my Exhaust Manifold.. I had enough so I finally did the job..
It was a little more involved than the obvious because it was the VC under the Upper Manifold, so that had to come off first..
Anyways, I get it open and it looked like this.. I've been running Pennzoil Platinum in some form for the 10 years I've been driving this thing. I've also run the HPL Engine Cleaner. You think you have some piece of mind knowing your Engine is shinny new inside, but it is not.. I had to know this because the tip of my Dipstick never lost that burnt brown color on the tip and that must see a lot of splash action in the Crank Case..
This is a 2002 4.0L SOHC Ford.. with almost 130K.
The upside is that all the Intake Valves a shinny clean. I've been running some Stabil In Season and Marine for about 4 months.. Was it the product, or was it just the Gas in a Multi Port Injected Engine?? Recirculating all the Exhaust for Emissions sure does build up tho.
I'm thinking of heavy one time flush first, then move to gradual. Maybe you're right though.An engine that dirty needs a slow and less aggressive cleaning approach like HPL or Valvoline Restore and Protect in my view.
The most aggressive product I'd consider would be Liqui-Moly flush or something. There are many products that can clean *some* deposits. The question is how well they work and over what timeframe and at what potential risk to the engine from having the deposits removed?
To me, deposits that accumulated slowly should be removed slowly. Valvoline Restore and Protect and HPL seem to be the way to go in this regard with the edge going to Valvoline Restore and Protect for efficacy and cost of cleaning is the main focus.
Understandable. I've always been a bit skeptical of BG myself. @The CriticI’m personally not a fan of BG flushes and additives. I know many here like BG. As I was changing careers out of the dealer BG was pushing hard to get into dealers. GM was against it but many dealers still offered the services.
I believe the fuel system cleaner is highly regarded. Keep in mind I’ve been out of the game for decades. Also some engines are so dirty like you posted, probably not many other choices.Understandable. I've always been a bit skeptical of BG myself. @The Critic
The liqui-moly would be the way I'd go. Right before draining the oil, dump it in and let it warm high idle for 20 min, then drain all the oil.I'm thinking of heavy one time flush first, then move to gradual. Maybe you're right though.
That's what the BG Dynamic Engine cleaner is for. He'd have to do a quick drain though to avoid filter overfill.
I’m currently running Valvoline Restore and Protect in my sons 01 F150 5.4L. The last 8 years of its life was never really taken cared of. Mother in law had it after my father in law passed. 1100 oci on the Valvoline Restore and Protect and the oil looked dark with a slight transparency. Next spring I’ll do its third round.very similar to my van then. No burning or oil loss, but loaded with varnish up top.
Valvoline Restore and Protect worked a small miracle. And while it never really burned oil, I definitely see better engine running and higher MPG after the Valvoline Restore and Protect experiment cleaned it out.