Cleaning lifters...

[Gent]

Hi. I brought my pickup (’96 Nissan XE) to a mechanic because I had a cylinder misfire (even though I did a tune up w/ all new parts) and I hear a ticking-grinding noise. He claims that it is due to dirty lifters and the valves are getting stuck.

I disagree, because I had sound diagnosed by another (trusted) mechanic who found that it was one of the emission components making the noise. Apparently, this year/make/model just does that and it's nothing to really fix. I experiment myself and found that if remove the power supply to the aforementioned component, the noise goes away; plug it back in and the sound comes back.

Either way, though, this is an older rig (104K miles) so in the event there really is stuck lifters, I might as well clean it out. I've been told a little ATF (1/2 bottle), drive 100 miles and then change oil will do it. I've also been told that a half-can of SeaFoam works a lot better. I've always run full-synthetic oils in it (Redline, Royal Purple, Mobile 1, etc.).

Any opinions, tips, ideas, etc.? Thanks all for your insight.

 

[ericgl]

This might be better asked in the additives forum.

IMHO, I would not put ATF in the crankcase. I'd consider a cleaning cycle or two with AutoRx.

 

[Gent]

Howdy. Thanks for the reply. Sorry I put this post on the wrong forum.

I thought putting ATF in the crankcase sounded pretty weird. This came from a mechanic @ the dealership. Still, I think an additive designed to clean would be better. I'm not familiar w/ AutoRx, but will check it out. Is it similar to SeaFoam?

Thanks again.

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Auto-RX is not like Sea Foam. There is a link to their website at the first page of this forum. I am using it on my 93 Sentra and a Saturn with good results. Do a search at this forum for additional information.

 

[TC]

Marvel Mystery Oil. Cheap and crude (primarily mineral oil and mineral spirits/paint thinner), but effective. Back in the early 1980's, MMO cleared up what we thought was a permanent lifter tick in my mom's old '70 Mercury. I personally wouldn't use it (or any other oil supplement) as a regular additive, but only as a temporary cure, although a few others use MMO on a regular basis will apparently no ill effect.

"MYTH: Adding a quart of ATF the day before an oil change will clean your engine. ATF added to the motor oil will clean the engine due to the high levels of detergent in ATF."
"FACT: ATF does not contain detergent chemistry. ATF does contain dispersants, which have properties similar to detergents. But ATF is not formulated to withstand the combustion environment inside the engine. Quaker State® recommends that you keep the fluids where they belong: motor oil in the crankcase, and automatic transmission fluid in the transmission."
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp

A less expensive alternative to AutoRX would be to use mixed fleet oil (Rotella, Delo, Delvac, etc.) for a few oil changes. Some have posted on this board that such oils can help clean up light sludge (not sure about varnish) over an extended period, a safe, go-slow approach which is unlikely to clog passages.

[ April 06, 2005, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: TC ]

 

[Gent]

Thanks guys for the update. Sounds like a bad piece of advice from Mr. Dealship.

I'll try to find the AutoRX stuff.

Otherwise, SeamFoam advises putting half a can in, driving for 100 miles & changing the oil. While changing the oil, but the other half in and let it stay there until the next oil change (3K miles). Does this sound right?

Thanks again.

 

[darkdan]

www.auto-rx.com

Can't get it in stores.

 

[jhnrckr]

First off, what did you unplug and what was it connected to? If you are convinced that this is the source of the problem then why are you concerned with lifters? I have seen collapsed hydraulic lifters before but I have never seen a stuck dirty lifter. If it is lifter related then no dose of any oil additive is going to fix it. You can buy a mechanic's stethascope and use it to source the location of the noise.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Puting ATF in the oil is old wives tale and will donothing to clean an engine! THe cheapest API SJ GF3/GF4 oil will have many fold more detergents and dispersents then any ATF ever would! Auto-Rx is the best way to go if you need to clean a dirty engine! If the emission device is defective try cleaning it or replaceing it!

 

[Geoff]

I'd run Redline for 4K miles or so, changing the filter in the middle. Redline is an ester based oil and it will loosen a lot of sludge. Then follow with a good HDEO like Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, or Shell Rotella.

HDEOs work well too, I had good luck with Shell Rotella over a few oil changes in terms of reducing lifter noise.

 

[Ugly3]

quote:

---

Originally posted by jhnrckr:
First off, what did you unplug and what was it connected to? If you are convinced that this is the source of the problem then why are you concerned with lifters? I have seen collapsed hydraulic lifters before but I have never seen a stuck dirty lifter. If it is lifter related then no dose of any oil additive is going to fix it. You can buy a mechanic's stethascope and use it to source the location of the noise.

---

Ditto - you know it is not a lifter, why mess with it?

 

[Gent]

Howdy. The component is the "evap purge volume control."

The only reason to clean the lifters is that I've been getting misfires every now and again on cylinder 4. This is even after brand new rotor, cap, plugs, wires, etc. The rig has also lost some pep and I wonder if after 104K miles it's sludgd up.

I don't know, maybe it wouldn't be worth the effort. Thanks.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Redline is $6.95-$8 a quart. Auto-Rx is something like $23 for a trreatment. Redline is designed to lubricate and Auto-Rx is designed to clean. I do understand that all of the esters in Redline will have a significant impact on cleaning but why not use a product designed to clean sludge and carbon?

 

[Gent]

Yup, that's what I plan to do is use a cleaner. I just mentioned this engine was mainly run on synthetics (Redline for a while). Thanks.

 

[Cyprs]

I have a good Nissan Service Manager, he is a very experienced mechanic. I use Exxon/Esso XD3 in my Nissan, when I told him I use this oil he was extremely impressed. He told me that if any customer through out years have sludge problems he recommends two OCI with XD3 Esso/Exxon oil, if this does not fix problem then it is time to open it up.

You can get XD3Elite in dino in America, I use the XD3 POA Group 1V 0-30 syn oil up here, it is basically Mobil at $3.71 litre/quart up here in bulk, may be worth trip north for you, not available I guess in States.

Anyway, CI-4/SL oils have great cleaning properties, high TBN, I use them all the time in gassers too, currently in a brand new Nissan engine with 2000 miles on it now to keep them clean, if always clean, no future sludge problems, my Nissan service manager gives HDEO 0-30 or 5-30 full thumbs up for a Nissan, his choice is XD3 since 1970s.

For all it is worth. Good luck.

Cyprs