Electrical Outlet Inside Bathroom Sink Cabinet

In a bathroom? Then it's to power one of those electric bidets.
You might be on to something, there is a Toto toilet in there, which needs to be plugged in
https://www.totousa.com/neorest-700h-dual-flush-toilet-10-and-08-gpf-1

The toilet is on the other side of this five foot long double vanity. Due to some kind of mixup, the electrician ended up installing this unneeded outlet on the wrong side. You would expect that the electrician would notice that the toilet was to be installed on the other side, though.

I did not get a good look at the bathroom, I was in there to unclog a sink drain and had to do it quickly because of other things going on - tenant is moving out today, cleaner in there cleaning and movers moving stuff out.
 
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That's almost certainly for a point of use water heater. The small ones for bathroom sinks run on 120 volts. If the owner opted for a heater it would be simply installed with flex lines and a detachable electric cord.
 
That plumbing job don't look anything close to "high end" to me.
The drain is well done, very nice, except for a missing wall flange.

The pex supply lines are also missing flanges. I always make stubouts in copper, makes future replacement of the shutoff valves easier.
pex copper stubout.webp


I also use Wirsbo Pex A, not the pex B used here.
 
Power for a point of use water heater for instant hot water or an automatic touchless faucet.
Why is there a need for point of use water heater in a high rise? There is always an endless supply of hot water.

Sanitizing dentures, maybe? Special medical procedures needing extra hot water?
 
My customer is the original owner of this condo and he did not put it in, it was put in by the builder.

Modern condos are very well insulated and heated, unlikely anybody needs extra warmth.

This was a show apartment in this building, but I can't think of any reason why a show apartment needs an outlet inside the vanity.

I bet it has something to do with it being a model, although for the life of me I can't figure out what they would need that outlet for.
 
Interesting, always thought receptacles in cabinets had to be switched in Canada - ie it turns on/off with the door opened/closed.

Maybe it's just a convenience for owners to charge their shavers, toothbrushes, vibrators out of sight
 
I googled "electrical outlet in cabinet" and, as I thought, it is in general prohibited except for specific purposes like dish washers, garburetors etc

toronto87 wrote: Does OBC code allow for outlets inside of kitchen millwork? thanks!
Are you talking about inside your cabinets? I’m not sure what the OBC says but the Canadian Electrical Code forbids receptacles inside cabinets unless it is for a couple specific uses such as microwave, hood fan, dishwasher or you install a door switch that disables the receptacle when the door is closed.
26-720
h)
I) a receptacle shall not be placed in a cupboard, cabinet, or similar enclosure, except where the receptacle is
i) an integral part of a factory-built enclosure;
ii) provided for use with an appliance that is suitable for installation within the enclosure;
iii) intended only for a microwave oven;
iv) intended only for a cord-connected range hood; or
v) intended only for a cord-connected combination microwave oven/range hood fan;

i) except for cord-connected dishwashers, in-line water heaters, garbage disposal units, and other similar appliances, receptacles installed in cupboards, cabinets, or similar enclosures in accordance with Item h) ii) shall be de-energized unless the enclosure door is in the fully opened position;
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/does-obc-code-allow-outlets-inside-kitchen-millwork-2449297/
 
In this bathroom the outlets directly behind the toilet is be design. It is for a Uspa toilet. Looks like the last owner took out the uspa toilet, but left me the remote for the uspa toilet.

This picture is for the guest bath. The master bath still has the uspa toilet installed and hooked to 110.

PXL_20240930_204526682.webp
PXL_20240930_204539656.webp
 
We just remodeled bathroom and put an outlet under sink. We bought a Kohler vanity and one of the options available is a power strip in order to store and plug in dryers, curling iron etc. The outlet we installed to plug that accessory into is GFI protected.
 
If it was DIY, I'd be surprised that the homeowner used BX cable though.
Not necessarily the homeowner who put it in. In fact, a lot of high-end condos have rules about who can do that kind of work in their building.
It's possible that an electrician dropped the wire there before the cabinet was installed and the cabinet installer ran it through the drain opening being lazy.

If I had done that before the cabinet install, I would want my own hole and would bring the BX in through the back of the box where you wouldn't see the BX in the cabinet....just the box add receptacle.

After the cabinet is installed... I probably would have done it the way this is done.
I wouldn't want to butcher up the back of the cabinet.
 
View attachment 242984

This is in a three year old high end condo built by a very reputable bulder in Toronto.

Two questions - Why would someone need the outlet inside the cabinet? What would they plug in?
Isn't it against code to have receptacles inside cabinets?
More annoying is why the plumber did not put a trap in without a cleanout plug on the bottom, especially on a bathroom sink. Future work taking the trap apart to get the hair and gunk out?
 
More annoying is why the plumber did not put a trap in without a cleanout plug on the bottom, especially on a bathroom sink. Future work taking the trap apart to get the hair and gunk out?
I always install the P-traps with the clean-out but occasionally the clean-out is a hindrance.. If sending a snake in from the top after just removing the pop-up plug, the cable head gets caught in the clean-out recess and the clean-out plug has to be removed to guide the head past the recess. A snake is necessary if the clog is in the vent tee inside the wall.

The vast majority of traps I come across in Toronto have the union but not the clean-out, like the one above.
 
I always install the P-traps with the clean-out but occasionally the clean-out is a hindrance.. If sending a snake in from the top after just removing the pop-up plug, the cable head gets caught in the clean-out recess and the clean-out plug has to be removed to guide the head past the recess. A snake is necessary if the clog is in the vent tee inside the wall.

The vast majority of traps I come across in Toronto have the union but not the clean-out, like the one above.
I guess if the clog is in the wall the trap comes off anyway, maybe condo issues are a little different than the ones I get from my family. The clean out seems to get the job done with minimal work on my part crawling under the cabinet.
 
Not necessarily the homeowner who put it in. In fact, a lot of high-end condos have rules about who can do that kind of work in their building.
It's possible that an electrician dropped the wire there before the cabinet was installed and the cabinet installer ran it through the drain opening being lazy.

If I had done that before the cabinet install, I would want my own hole and would bring the BX in through the back of the box where you wouldn't see the BX in the cabinet....just the box add receptacle.

After the cabinet is installed... I probably would have done it the way this is done.
I wouldn't want to butcher up the back of the cabinet.
Wouldn't you want to bring in MC wire vs BX, IF you chose armored cable as your install choice, especially in a known very wet/possible very high steam bathroom GFCI scenario? Nothing like a green wire attached directly to the grounding bus bar? And wouldn't BX be a code violation in a residence/non-industrial setting to top it off?
 
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