Electrical issue (light flicker)

Joined
May 16, 2011
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1,520
Location
Greenville, SC via Chicago, IL
I have an overhead light/fan in my living room that goes off and then immediately back on. This fixture has two LED bulbs. I recently replaced the light/fan to resolve this issue... Obviously that wasn't the problem.

I narrowed it down to one 15amp breaker on my GE panel. This breaker is over a few outlets/lamps in two rooms and this single overhead light. I have other lights, one lamp (LED blub) in the same room plugged into a wall outlet. This wall outlet also powers our modem/router without issue. If it lost power, the modem and router would cycle which has never happened (same breaker) and a three bulb tall lamp on a switch (same breaker, different room). This is the ONLY electrical fixture that goes off and on. This occurs every 3-5 minutes, all day/night.

Should I check all outlets/switches on the circuit?
Replace the breaker on the panel?

Any thoughts on how to further narrow this down and correct the issue?
 
Can you take a similar LED bulb and put it into a lamp, next to the router? The router may be able to withstand a second long power cut—it has lots of capacitance in it, typically, and might be able to withstand a power cut long enough to be visible on an LED bulb.

If the LED bulb next to the router blinks, then the problem is downstream of that, perhaps it is the breaker. But if it doesn’t blink, it must be closer to the fan.

The “three bulb tall lamp”, is that an LED or incandescent setup? Incandescent might not flicker As much.

I’m thinking you have something else on this circuit, something that turns on every 3 to 5 minutes, a big power draw, and this LED light is flickering as a result. Just a guess, since a static draw of a bulb should not cause such intermittent wiring on such a consistent 3 to 5 minute period.
 
Turn off that breaker and find out what else it powers. Any problems with those fixtures? If yes then it’s likely that circuit /breaker. If no, then it’s that particular fixture.
 
Pull the wall switches make sure the connection screws and other connections in the switch box are tight. Does it do it in both positions of the switches that turn the light on?
 
^^^ Yup ^^^
I would pull the switches from the junction boxes and check the pigtailed connections under the wire nuts.
I doubt very much its the breaker.

AS I discovered I bet every home has a loose wire and more under a wire nut and yours maybe more apparent.
I discovered one (and I bet there is more) by mistake, I had no issues but when we set up my wifes home office on the second floor a couple years back in our home built in 2006.

We used a power line adapter to connect her rather robust company work station and phone system on the second floor of our home to our router on the main level of the home.
We had a great connection with the power line adapter but we noticed whenever we turned on the overhead room light it would go from solid green to amber.
Keep in mind in our case the room light ALWAYS worked perfect.
Well, I pulled the light switch and checked the wire nuts, one of the wires fell out of the wire nut. So anyway, it was just touching enough that the light didnt flicker but enough to create a bit of interference in the line.
Fastened the wire and wire nut properly and sold green on the power line adapter.

Makes me want to check all connections in the home but we have a rather large home and dont have the desire yet, it reminds me why there are junction boxes to help prevent fires and not only the connections.
 
Pull the wall switches make sure the connection screws and other connections in the switch box are tight. Does it do it in both positions of the switches that turn the light on?
Also, if the wires are connected in the back of the two switches through the spring tension quick insert inserts, remove them and re-attach them with the screw terminals. Electricians typically use the quick connect during new construction to speed up the job; however, they are not as secure as the screw terminals. Over time, corrosion and micro-arcing can cause the small contact interface on the spring tension connection to become loose.
 
Are either of the switches that operate your light/fan the kind that are illuminated? Illuminated switches can effect light fixtures with LED bulbs. I’ve run across this many times since LED bulbs came out. Sometimes you have to use old school bulbs or CFL bulbs to fix the situation.
 
Is there a dimmer in the light circuit? If so, many dimmers don't work well with LEDs. Some dimmers don't work at all with dimmable/non-dimmable LEDs and you'll get behavior like this.
 
The LED bulbs could be the problem. I’ve run across LED bulbs flickering in lights and lamps. When it starts up, I replace them and the problem goes away.
 
Is there a dimmer in the light circuit? If so, many dimmers don't work well with LEDs. Some dimmers don't work at all with dimmable/non-dimmable LEDs and you'll get behavior like this.
No dimmer
Also, if the wires are connected in the back of the two switches through the spring tension quick insert inserts, remove them and re-attach them with the screw terminals. Electricians typically use the quick connect during new construction to speed up the job; however, they are not as secure as the screw terminals. Over time, corrosion and micro-arcing can cause the small contact interface on the spring tension connection to become loose.
Turn off that breaker and find out what else it powers. Any problems with those fixtures? If yes then it’s likely that circuit /breaker. If no, then it’s that particular fixture.

I did it it’s only to those 2 rooms in the house...
 
GE breakers are very failure prone, so much so that I keep extra 15 and 20 amp GE breakers "in stock" at all times. I have replaced many of them. Just go ahead and replace the breaker, they are cheap and it is an easy way to eliminate it as being the cause. Wall switches also fail, replacing the wall switch would be my next move.
You didn't mention it, but, do you have aluminum wiring in your house? If your house was built in the 60's or 70's, you might. This can also cause the type of problem that you describe. If replacing the breaker and wall switch doesn't solve your problem, you need to determine if you have aluminum wiring. If so, you need to hire an electrician ASAP before you have a fire.
 
Yes, check all of the switches and outlets on the circuit. If the wires in the switches and outlets are are stuck into the back of each, remove them and attach them to the screws on the sides.
After doing that, observe what happens. If you have no more problems, you’re done.
If you continue having problems, check the wires at the breaker. Are they tight?
If all of this fails to solve your problem, replace the breaker. Is the 15 Amp breaker enough to handle everything in both rooms? You may need a 20 Amp.
I forgot to mention something. If you’re wiring runs through your attic before dropping down to your walls, take a good look for rodents in your attic.
 
I'm finding a lot of switches (and sockets) that survived incandescents just fine are eaten by switching the curly fluorescents, and now the LEDs.
(I suspect they have similar, relatively cheap and aggressive power supplies.)
R&R switches with the $.79 upgrades, not the $.39 ones!
 
Is there a dimmer in the light circuit? If so, many dimmers don't work well with LEDs. Some dimmers don't work at all with dimmable/non-dimmable LEDs and you'll get behavior like this.
That's what I was thinking. I have an LED bulb in my kitchen fan/light and it does that.
 
GE breakers are very failure prone, so much so that I keep extra 15 and 20 amp GE breakers "in stock" at all times. I have replaced many of them. Just go ahead and replace the breaker, they are cheap and it is an easy way to eliminate it as being the cause. Wall switches also fail, replacing the wall switch would be my next move.
You didn't mention it, but, do you have aluminum wiring in your house? If your house was built in the 60's or 70's, you might. This can also cause the type of problem that you describe. If replacing the breaker and wall switch doesn't solve your problem, you need to determine if you have aluminum wiring. If so, you need to hire an electrician ASAP before you have a fire.

Good to know. I have extra 15amp breakers so that will be my next task.
 
Yes, check all of the switches and outlets on the circuit. If the wires in the switches and outlets are are stuck into the back of each, remove them and attach them to the screws on the sides.
After doing that, observe what happens. If you have no more problems, you’re done.
If you continue having problems, check the wires at the breaker. Are they tight?
If all of this fails to solve your problem, replace the breaker. Is the 15 Amp breaker enough to handle everything in both rooms? You may need a 20 Amp.
I forgot to mention something. If you’re wiring runs through your attic before dropping down to your walls, take a good look for rodents in your attic.

I just finished removing all switches and outlets. I moved all contacts to the side screws. I'm just sitting here watching and waiting for the light to flicker.... I will be going to Lowes later today, and I buy some extra wall switches and swap those out as well...
 
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