Electrical help

[Dadillac]

So in May I leased a Volvo that is a plug in hybrid. Charging cable runs off 240v. I installed a new outlet for this cable myself. The run is only 2 or 3 feet. Used 12/2 wire that I had on hand, bought a receptacle Leviton 6-20R from Home Depot, and wired it up. I ran the black and white wires as my hots and then the ground. I did not run a jumper ground to the new receptacle box.

Here is the issue. While charging the cable sometimes cuts out and stops charging as something is getting hot. Today I unplugged the cable while it was not charging to reset it. While it was unplugged I felt the plug pins and they were hot. Not hot as in it burned my fingers but hot none the less.

Could the fact that I did not run a jumper ground to the box be causing this? Or is it more likely that the receptacle is pretty much garbage? If it is the receptacle can anyone suggest a quality replacement?

Thanks for any and all info that can be shared

Don

 

[Pablo]

I did not read what rated current draw is.

 

[factorytuned2012]

what is a jumper ground... do you mean bonded ground?

the charger is pulling more amps than the 12/2 is rated for... 12/2 is rated for 20A and a 20A breaker is rated at 80% continuous before tripping. definitely would want to bond your junction box especially if it is metallic.

 

[eljefino]

If the charger came with the 6/20 plug the car should know to only consume 80% of the rated capacity, or 16 amps.

EVSEs have the thermal sensor in the plug in case of a loose connection. Wonder if you have... a loose or corroded connection. I have a similar if not exactly the same brand outlet from HD/Lowes that works fine for my car. But it's probably on the cheaper end of things.

When you go in the car's charging menu, is the fastest option 240V at 16A?

I assume you have a metal box and are concerned about the outlet being grounded but the box not (directly)? It is a technical code violation but the ears of the outlet should conduct the ground to the box. And the car shouldn't use or need any grounds or neutrals in normal charging use.

 

[Hall]

Can you take a picture of the outlet, specifically the connections ? I suspect your connections are done poorly and it's causing the heating up.

Also, like @Pablo mentions, you don't mention the amperage spec. Where is the plug spec (6-20R) from ?

 

[factorytuned2012]

I assume you have a metal box and are concerned about the outlet being grounded but the box not (directly)? It is a technical code violation but the ears of the outlet should conduct the ground to the box. And the car shouldn't use or need any grounds or neutrals in normal charging use.

that is if the receptacle has a self-grounding yoke.

 

[Rand]

IIRC those like around 30amps of 240.
so likely the issue is you need to upgrade some stuff.

unless you left off all the pertinent info such as setting up a 16amp charging limit somewhere etc.

 

[Cujet]

I believe a 6-20R is just an alteration of a 120V outlet.
Also, I believe that there are no conventionally sized 120V outlets that can safely handle more than 12A continuous. Despite the ratings.
Additionally, there is never a situation where a 240V outlet does not have a valid ground and/or neutral.

Yes the wiring is simple and it is easy to wire up. HOWEVER, EV charging is unique as the load is constant, so the ratings must be reduced. Remember EV charging often draws more than that of a 4500W water heater, which will have some pretty stout wiring. In other words, one would never use a 6-20R to run a conventional water heater. A 10-30R would be a minimum outlet size, with 10/2 copper wire.

However again, a quality 14-50 outlet is considered a better choice for EV's.

 

[OVERKILL]

So in May I leased a Volvo that is a plug in hybrid. Charging cable runs off 240v. I installed a new outlet for this cable myself. The run is only 2 or 3 feet. Used 12/2 wire that I had on hand, bought a receptacle Leviton 6-20R from Home Depot, and wired it up. I ran the black and white wires as my hots and then the ground. I did not run a jumper ground to the new receptacle box.

Here is the issue. While charging the cable sometimes cuts out and stops charging as something is getting hot. Today I unplugged the cable while it was not charging to reset it. While it was unplugged I felt the plug pins and they were hot. Not hot as in it burned my fingers but hot none the less.

Could the fact that I did not run a jumper ground to the box be causing this? Or is it more likely that the receptacle is pretty much garbage? If it is the receptacle can anyone suggest a quality replacement?

Thanks for any and all info that can be shared

Don

Is the charge cable 6-20R or are you using an adapter? My car charger plug is the typical 14-50 plug, which is a 50A socket and has a dedicated 50A breaker.

 

[factorytuned2012]

I personally wouldn't have an ev charger on anything less than #6 wire 2-pole 50A breaker

 

[Astro14]

Way too low a current rating in that outlet.

 

[Kansas_Ron]

I guess I'll toss in my thoughts with the many replies you have received. If I am understanding you, your electrical panel is within 2 to 3 feet of where you installed the receptacle. If this is the situation I would replace the 12/2 wire and use 10/2 just for insurance. Your wires might have a poor connection to the receptacle. Did you insert the wires into the holes in the back of the receptacle and tighten (preferred) or bend the wires into a loop around the screws on the sides and tighten them down? Best wishes

 

[oldcodger]

12 wire is way too small. It is a wonder something did not burn.

 

[55hambone]

It's a plug in hybrid, so there isn't as much battery to charge as an EV. Volvo's website says that the plug in hybrids have a charging cord that has a special adapter that allows it to plug into a 120 volt or a 240 volt receptacle. It also states that 5 hours is the typical time to charge from 0-100% on 240 volt 16 amps, so a 20 amp circuit would be the correct size. A 6-20R and 12-2 romex would be all that is needed to meet the NEC requirements. The Leviton receptacle would be UL listed and should be fine. It's possible that a loose wire termination or faulty components in the receptacle are causing the receptacle to heat up. I would look into the charging cord being defective as well. And whether it is causing the problem or not, a metal box should be grounded in addition to grounding the receptacle.

 

[KevinMalone]

I don't see an issue with 12/2 and 6-20R. Volvo chargers come with a 6-20P adapter and presumably the charger limits current to 16A.

Make sure all connections are tight as continuous 16A can get warm and connections may loosen from heat cycling. There are even receptacles rated for EV use due to the continuous load:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/le...vy-duty-flush-mount-in-black/1001865360?gQT=1

 

[spasm3]

The 12/2 may not be heavy enough considering the run. You say the run is only 2-3 feet, but what is the length of the charging cable ?

Since you were wiring it for a hybrid, I'd have gone ahead and uses at least #6 wire in a 14-50 outlet. That way its clear for what you have ,and will handle whatever vehicle you buy in the future.

 

[sparky123]

Just went to the Volvo's website and looked up your charging system/cord. P319 Mode 2 IC.

Part. No.

Description

32257794

7 meters (22.9 feet), max. 16 A, excl. TH So, according to Volvo and my understanding, the electrical hook-up was done as described. I DO NOT like "Charging with level 2." Continuous 16 amp draw on 240v. You are really pushing the wire guage/outlet and breaker, IMO. Personally, would go to "Charging with level 1." A commercial heavy duty 15 amp outlet should handle 12 amp as long as the connections are tight and secure. Not familiar w/your cord, but is the molded plug a 5-15p or 6-20p? My take it's the latter. So, how do you get to 5-15p? IF, they supply an "adapter" for this, I'd be very leery. I do NOT like adapters especially w/this much amperage draw.

 

[factorytuned2012]

Just went to the Volvo's website and looked up your charging system/cord. P319 Mode 2 IC.

Part. No.

Description

32257794

7 meters (22.9 feet), max. 16 A, excl. TH So, according to Volvo and my understanding, the electrical hook-up was done as described. I DO NOT like "Charging with level 2." Continuous 16 amp draw on 240v. You are really pushing the wire guage/outlet and breaker, IMO. Personally, would go to "Charging with level 1." A commercial heavy duty 15 amp outlet should handle 12 amp as long as the connections are tight and secure. Not familiar w/your cord, but is the molded plug a 5-15p or 6-20p? My take it's the latter. So, how do you get to 5-15p? IF, they supply an "adapter" for this, I'd be very leery. I do NOT like adapters especially w/this much amperage draw.

What makes it any better to continuously pull from a 20A circuit with a “SPEC” grade receptacle @ 120V vs 16A @ 240V? I would be more concerned with heating up the neutral. With the proper installation and equipment electrically on the house side can handle the amp draw. I don’t know the workmanship of the OP installation but this seems to be a Volvo designed charger/adapter issue not capable of the long duty cycle. Google will reveal several forums with complaints about this situation. What are the exact specifications of this charger what is the watts used/amp draw. Is this a charger rated for dual voltages 120/240? I would purchase a dedicated level 2 charger run 6/3 with a two-pole 50A and future proof yourself. 6/2 would be more cost savings and as far as I know the chargers don't require a neutral not sure what the future will change on that.

 

[Cujet]

A 6-20R and 12-2 romex would be all that is needed to meet the NEC requirements.

Yes, it should meet the requirements. However, as I mentioned the 6-20R is just a variation on a typical wall outlet. The very kind that can't handle more than 12A continuous, and even then overheats. The OP's experience backs up my position.

Take a 6-20R apart and you'll find familiar light duty parts.

 

[sparky123]

Never taken one apart, but I concur. Same parts quality just a different orientation. Huge difference in quality from 87 cent outlets to "commercial/hospital & spec grade" outlets. If I were to do the install, in whichever voltage, I'd use the best quality outlet and I'd use 12 ga. thin wire (higher amperage rating than romex) in EMT. I would hope it is this way if box is mounted on the wall externally. The 12 amp 120v draw would be a better for the volvo lengthy cord. I'm assuming they have 12 ga. wire internally. Would take longer the charge but the wire/cord and outlet would not heat up so much.