dielectric grease on 50A electric oven

[JHZR2]

Great... thanks all!

One last question before bed - judging from the picture of my wires in the breaker box - do you think they are Aluminim wires??? There is no indication of that anti-oxidation goop on them where they connect to the bus bar or breaker.

Ive been reading that some older wires are copper coated with tin. If that is the case, Im far more at ease.

I always thought that Al wires stay pretty bright and shiny, like a coke can type silver sheen color. Mine look pretty dark. Might I just have tinned copper? Would the tin coating run the length of the conductors?

Thanks again,

JMH

 

[tom slick]

that ground certainly looks like aluminum. aluminum wires are bad news. they expand/contract during heat/cool cycles more then copper and end up loosening making resistance go up. the also oxide and resistance goes up.

with them disconnected you could scratch them and see if copper appears.

 

[JHZR2]

I wonder if the oxide layer is why I hear arcing in the receptacle now...

Then again, I still wonder why that one leg looks burned. Like the contact resistance is really high, and it arcs to make the connection, and gets hot doing so, sending so much current through one small spot or something.

Well, I have a lot of shopping to do at HD tomorrow.

One last question, is "service entrance" wiring what I want, or should I look for something else? If I use anti-ox, can I stick with Al wires? Should I definitely buy copper?

Sorry... just want to be as prepared as possible for when I go to HD tomorrow at lunch.

Thanks again!!!

JMH

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
by code it would have to be a 4 wire connection to use one leg/120v because you are not supposed to use the ground as the neutral, that doesn't mean that somebody couldn't do it though.


The 1996 NEC mandated 4-wire connections...prior to 1996 many ranges/electric dryers were wired with 3 wire connections.

Oh, by the way, this was a change made to the NEC during WWII to save copper that took till 1996 to be changed back. Or so I have heard.

 

[tom slick]

I don't know if you can even buy Al wire, I wouldn't. just ask for 6/4 cable, it should have a relatively thin plastic sheathing. if the sheathing is thick like an extension cord then you are looking at the wrong (more expensive) stuff.

it is really common so it should be easy to find.

 

[andyd]

When my house was re-wired , I replaced the AL service to the dryer and range with all copper. I dont remember the additional cost, but it is one less thing to worry about.

 

[JHZR2]

the main legs going into my house are aluminum... and they were just recently replaced by the PO! After 1996!

They are coated with the anti-ox coating.

Thanks again!

JMH

 

[tom slick]

the power companies still use Al conductors out here too.

 

[The_Jeff]

Just FYI home depot still carries copper 8/2 with ground "stove wire" which presumably is meant for replacement of old, same. This'll be cheaper and might be cause for confusion.

 

[brianl703]

Aluminum conductors are very common for anything larger than about 6 gauge. Incidentally, I don't believe these are made with the same problematic alloy that caused all of the problems with 10 and 12 awg aluminum wire.

 

[Papa Bear]

Be sure the fire coverage on your home insurance is in place.

 

[brianl703]

I haven't yet seen a power company service drop...or the connection between the meter pan and load center...that was done in copper. And I'm talking houses built in the last 20 years.

 

[JHZR2]

Well, Im just about done. The connection that had the bad prong on the plug was very loose and burned at the plug - the wire wasnt suitable because of the burned insulation, etc., and there wasnt enough slack to recover more wire...

So I got 4-conductor 6Ga wire (it has a 10ga solid ground, and perhaps an 8ga neutral)

Didnt take forever to run the wire, but it was tough, since everthing is there. Its tough to run heavy wire without it anting to kink or pull itself into a very tight small loop.

Tomorrow Ill change out the oven plug, and put the new receptacle in. Then we will be back in business.

Total cost $189... plus my labor. All parts from Home Depot. I could have saved a few bucks if I hadnt upgraded to the four-connector deal, but I figure its now up to code and correct. Since we will be redoing our kitchen (but keeping our oldie but goodie range), I figure I might as well do that part right.

Thanks everyone for all the help!

JMH

P.S. That old wire was copper - its tin plated copper, not Aluminum!