How to clean and seal vehicle electrical connections

[Carlostrece]

Tomorrow's project is to clean (and possibly seal?) the electrical ring terminal connection where the battery to frame ground wire connects to the frame on my neighbor's 03 Honda CRV. We'll also be replacing her battery. So we'll want to clean (and possibly seal?) the battery cable top terminal connections and battery posts.

In the near future we'll be cleaning (and possibly sealing?) several electrical connections on my Buick.

We want to do a good job, but don't know how best to clean. I don't know whether to seal connections. If we should seal connections, I don't know the best method for sealing.

What is best for cleaning corroded or dirty connections? Baking soda, or store bought electric connections cleaner spray, or something else? I already own some store bought electrical connection cleaner spray and a wire brush.

What is best for sealing electrical connections to prevent corrosion? Store bought sealer spray, dielectric grease, or vasoline?

Is the sealer spray, or dielectric grease, or vaseline (whichever is used) supposed to be applied to the mating surfaces before the terminal is bolted in place on the frame, or only applied to the exterior surfaces after bolting the terminal in place? Or both?

Same questions for G34 battery top post connections.

 

[Chris142]

Use the wire brush and spray cleaner. Do not put anything between the connector and block.

 

[twX]

I'd use an electronic spray cleaner like CRC. I prefer using a fine sandpaper to remove grit or corrosion instead of a wire brush. Dielectric grease is the safest choice.

Is the sealer spray, or dielectric grease, or vaseline (whichever is used) supposed to be applied to the mating surfaces before the terminal is bolted in place on the frame, or only applied to the exterior surfaces after bolting the terminal in place? Or both?

You can do both. The grease is an insulator, but it's only displacing any air gaps in the connection. It won't affect the resistance of the connection, and greasing everything before tightening is probably better for corrosion resistance.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Battery gets wire brush from terminal brush inside terminals and around posts, possibly light emery cloth instead. I rarely need anything on them for corrosion. Baking soda, maybe the CRC battery spray cleaner and rinse the rest. I use simple green for whole motor 1-2 times per year and most dirt or anything stays away. I have used the battery terminal protector spray as well as the felt washers over the years but many of thos batteries also tended to leak/fumes/corrode.

Only thing I don't like with dielectric or Kopr shield on post/terminal is it is a grease and makes it harder to maintain a tight friction connection.

I have these stainless power brushes in my toolboxes, terminal stuff. I insert in my drill or dremel to clean the threads of captured nuts like all the 10mm ones where in fender etc. I might chase the threads first with a tap to clean paint/rust. I also use the light sanding attachment for dremel where the wire connector attaches at those spots to remove the paint. This way I have clean contact. Before reassembling I use Kopr-Shield it helps conduct, fills small gaps like di-electric and anti seize. All of my grounds get done that way. Use sparingly, it does conduct. Be careful on multiplug connectors. Most of those I use dielectric grease.

I might give the snap together connectors a bit of dielectric to help with the sealing by rubber gaskets.

Paint is removed under the copper. Bolt hole gets a bit for when bolt threads in. This was a second ground post and cable I added to Pilot for easier jumping if needed and connection for clamp on Viair compressor.

 

[rstsco]

This may sound like I'm trying to sell you snake oil, but this stuff works. I'm going to link to Amazon, but you can find these in other places, Guitar Center is one.

If you have dirty or oxidized connections, clean with DeoIT D-Series. I used to own an electronics' repair center and this was the first product used on most all connections, but especially potentiometers. I can't tell you how many times this stuff fixed crackling audio on a stereo from heavy smoker's house (yuck!). A light spray into potentiometers, twist a few times, and usually on first application all was good. This product has the highest cleaning properties of the DeoIT line-up, as far as I know. If using in plug connectors, spray inside and push the plug in and out a few times. Rinse. Repeat (if necessary).

For gold or other precious metal-plated connectors, especially very low current such as circuit board edge connections (think inside computers, HDMI cables, etc), use DeoIT Golld (G-Series). This is where the snake oil comes in. I used to be heavy into photography and used Nikon equipment. Not uncommon was having a lens start acting up in small, but irritating ways. There are connections between the camera body and lens which would become oxidized. You could clean with alcohol or other products, but this is the only one which would fix it. Spray a small amount on a q-tip, rub the contacts, and that was it. This is also the only product Panasonic recommended for cleaning the ribbon cables and board connections between their plasma panels and driver boards.

Personally, I've never used the DeoIT D-Series before finishing with DeoIT Gold, but that's the recommendation from Caig, the manufacturer. DeoIT Gold always did what I needed without the additional help of the D-Series.

Finally, I've arrived at what you probably need, but suggest cleaning with the D-Series first if heavily contaminated. It's called DeoIT Shield. It says it's a Contact Protector/Lubricant/Sealant for Severe Environments, but goes on to say it basically works on anything. Based on the history of their other products which I've used, and reading up on it on Caig's website, I have no reason to doubt them. This product doesn't have really good cleaning properties, so that's why I suggested using the D-Series first.

Their products are typically MIL spec. I ordered a can of Shield and envision using on trailer connectors, but no doubt will find (make) other uses. FYI... a little goes a long way.

If you buy some, their products do have expiration dates, so watch for this, especially off Amazon. Having said that, my can of DeoIT D-Series is over 20 years old, and the Gold is probably 15 years old. I still use both... and they still work great.

Added: Here's a link to Caig's product data information which has links to the PDS and other things.

 

[SC Maintenance]

The grease is an insulator, but it's only displacing any air gaps in the connection. It won't affect the resistance of the connection, and greasing everything before tightening is probably better for corrosion resistance.

Your correct but I have seen nothing but problems with di-electric grease on the conductor surface. I prefer to assemble the joint then apply di-electric grease to the outside of the joint after its verified it works - to seal it. To each their own.

 

[Mainia]

Never Die-Electric grease. You want a paste that "carry's" electrons, not one that blocks them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-N..._-202276208-_-0-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a


https://www.menards.com/main/electr...pound-1-oz/ox-100b/p-1444431020925-c-6458.htm

Then lightly spray over with Fluid Film to reduce corrosion of parts

.

 

[ka9mnx]

Seal with electric liquid tape sold at electric supply stores (probably available from Amazon).

 

[RooflessVW]

PS 870

 

[kschachn]

Never Die-Electric grease. You want a paste that "carry's" electrons, not one that blocks them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-N..._-202276208-_-0-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a


https://www.menards.com/main/electr...pound-1-oz/ox-100b/p-1444431020925-c-6458.htm

Then lightly spray over with Fluid Film to reduce corrosion of parts

.

No. If the connection is being made, the presence of a dielectric is irrelevant. Air is a dielectric as well, so again if the connection isn't made then it still won't conduct. What carries electrons is contact and that is not prevented by the presence of a dielectric grease on the pins or lug.

You're making a common misconception that just isn't true. Nye greases and multiple other entities (including the military) have explained and demonstrated that a silicone dielectric grease is beneficial in connections as it helps to prevent moisture intrusion and other helpful properties. It does not inhibit conduction.

Several long and informative discussions on the board about this topic.

 

[wings&wheels]

Bronze brush or this little fiberglass touch up pen to clean connections, size dependent. Shot of contact cleaner then exposed chassis grounds usually get copper anti-seize and the rest get dielectric paste. I also still like those red and green felt pads for the terminals, just in the case of a slight leak.

 

[BHopkins]

For cleaning the ring terminal that grounds to the frame, a good cleaning with a wire brush should do a great job. Disconnect the terminal and use the wire brush clean up the frame, both sides of the ring terminal, and the fastener, and reassemble.

To seal the ground terminal, I would spray it with a coat or two of spray paint. I've seen spray paint used to seal terminal=to=frame grounding, on brand new cars from the factory, and it always seems to be very effective for many, many years.

For cleaning battery terminals, I've had very good success with using Noco battery cleaner. CRC also sells a similar product. The advantage of this over baking soda is the acid indicator. The Noco product sprays on yellow, but turns pink when it comes in contact with acid. When the pink is gone, the acid is neutralized. Spray on, wait for any pink indicator to go away, and wipe off. I spray the entire battery top, and depending on where the indicator turns pink, I may also clean the sides of the battery and the battery tray.

Dielectric grease has served me well for keeping connections corrosion free. It shields the connector from moisture and dirt, to reduce the risk of corrosion.

I'm in the camp of making the connection before applying dielectric grease, as it is non-conductive. But there are some exceptions. For example, I'll smear dielectric grease into the female side of a spade connector before assembling it, knowing that the spring tension of the connector will easily push through the grease, to make a solid connection with the male spade.

 

[Carlostrece]

Your correct but I have seen nothing but problems with di-electric grease on the conductor surface. I prefer to assemble the joint then apply di-electric grease to the outside of the joint after its verified it works - to seal it. To each their own.

That makes sense to me. I've heard that before from various sources. There's a lot of mixed reviews/opinions online on using dielectric grease on terminal connections.

Some professionals say not to use dielectric grease on terminals. Some professionals do use dielectric grease on terminals, but among the ones who use it, there's diagreement about where to apply it.

Similar divergence of opinions about using Vaseline petroleum jelly.

Similar divergence of opinions about using grease.

===
There's less divergence of opinions about using protector sprays, but even some divergence there too.

For example, apply protective spray to mating surfaces before assembly? Divergence.
Only apply protective spray after assembly? Less divergence.

I wonder if protective spray is conductive or insulative?

If you apply an insulative protectant to exterior of battery top terminal, would you still get a good electrical conduction when you put on alligator clamps for a charger/maintainer or when using jumper cables?

 

[Carlostrece]

Seal with electric liquid tape sold at electric supply stores (probably available from Amazon).

Is liquid tape conductive or insulative?

 

[Carlostrece]

Bronze brush or this little fiberglass touch up pen to clean connections, size dependent. Shot of contact cleaner then exposed chassis grounds usually get copper anti-seize and the rest get dielectric paste. I also still like those red and green felt pads for the terminals, just in the case of a slight leak.

Copper anti-seize. Interesting. That sounds like it'd be conductive. Is copper anti-seize conductive? If so, it sounds like a good choice to put on terminal mating surfaces.

 

[wings&wheels]

Copper anti-seize. Interesting. That sounds like it'd be conductive. Is copper anti-seize conductive? If so, it sounds like a good choice to put on terminal mating surfaces.

Hi, yes it is so it works fine on basic chassis grounds and such and the high quality stuff is very resistant to water etc., but be wary about dissimilar metal corrosion. If in doubt, use dielectric paste.

 

[Carlostrece]

Battery gets wire brush from terminal brush inside terminals and around posts, possibly light emery cloth instead. I rarely need anything on them for corrosion. Baking soda, maybe the CRC battery spray cleaner and rinse the rest. I use simple green for whole motor 1-2 times per year and most dirt or anything stays away. I have used the battery terminal protector spray as well as the felt washers over the years but many of thos batteries also tended to leak/fumes/corrode.

Only thing I don't like with dielectric or Kopr shield on post/terminal is it is a grease and makes it harder to maintain a tight friction connection.

I have these stainless power brushes in my toolboxes, terminal stuff. I insert in my drill or dremel to clean the threads of captured nuts like all the 10mm ones where in fender etc. I might chase the threads first with a tap to clean paint/rust. I also use the light sanding attachment for dremel where the wire connector attaches at those spots to remove the paint. This way I have clean contact. Before reassembling I use Kopr-Shield it helps conduct, fills small gaps like di-electric and anti seize. All of my grounds get done that way. Use sparingly, it does conduct. Be careful on multiplug connectors. Most of those I use dielectric grease.

I might give the snap together connectors a bit of dielectric to help with the sealing by rubber gaskets.

Paint is removed under the copper. Bolt hole gets a bit for when bolt threads in. This was a second ground post and cable I added to Pilot for easier jumping if needed and connection for clamp on Viair compressor.
View attachment 321071
View attachment 321072

I like the idea of using a highly conductive corrosion inhibitor on contact/terminal mating surfaces (such as between ground wire terminal and frame. Kopr-Shield sounds excellent. Would Permatex copper anti-seize be equivalent? I ask because I already have copper-anti seize in my toolbox.

 

[kschachn]

Copper anti-seize. Interesting. That sounds like it'd be conductive. Is copper anti-seize conductive? If so, it sounds like a good choice to put on terminal mating surfaces.

Maybe. Typically you never want a conductive grease on any multi-terminal connection since the grease can migrate and cause cross-connection. However, in this instance of an isolated ground that isn't as important.

Even so you really don't want conduction in the grease either. You want metal-to-metal contact which is rated to carry the required current. Current flowing through a conductive grease is undesirable and unpredictable compared to a proper clamped joint.

It's likely a moot point here since just the same as a dielectric compound, it is displaced on clamping. Other than uninformed Internet jockeys, there isn't a learned disagreement about dielectric compounds in electrical joints.

https://www.nyelubricants.com/connectors

 

[Carlostrece]

I can buy other items if necessary, but that would require sending my cousin to the autostore (NAPA or Oreilly). I'm running out of time. He's on his way here from his home 30 miles away. I mean a hard 30 miles on country roads and through 2 mountain passes. I'd hate to send him out to autostore after he gets here, but I will if necessary. He'll get here in 30-45 min.

For example, NAPA or Oreilly might/hopefully have Kopr-Shield paste in stock.

Choices I already have on hand for cleaner are: Baking soda and water, or Oreilly Superstart brand electrical contact cleaner and protect spray and brush kit.

Choices I already have on hand for corrosion inhibitor are Permatex copper anti-seize, Vaseline, grease, or the protector spray in Oreilly Superstart brand electrical contact cleaner and protect spray and brush kit.

So which of the items that I already have should I use? Or should we buy something else instore from NAPA or Oreilly? Those are my choices and I have 30-45 min to decide.

I do already have a 3 sizes of stainless steel wire brush, including one that fits my drill and a traditional battery terminal cleaner brush.

 

[f355spider]

I've tried a number of products claimed to improve or enhance an electrical connection, Stabilant 22, deoxit, dilectric greases...I have come full circle to just using a decent electrical contact cleaner like CRC. Use a brush...metal or plastic and scrub it well with the contact cleaner and wipe it off. Just keep it clean and dry. Get a set of those felt washers if you like. I find they are unnecessary on AGMs, but for some reason flooded often do. (maybe the gases escaping from the caps cause the corrosion?)

Good luck.