I came across an add for an electronic anode rod, and have to admit I've never heard of such a thing. Is there any merit to these? If it's as effective as it claims to be I'd certainly be interested given the hard water we have.
Electric anode rods?
- Thread starter PW01
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Instead of sacrificial anodes, that sacrifice themselves for the parent metal, are you talking an (industry parlance) impressed current device ?
Those apply a voltage to force the corrosion equation into a passive state.
I've seen one in operation on a 2MG mild steel tank with nasty water of pH 4 last for decades.
I'm not sure that I'd like one on (say) a domestic water system...unless you establish a weekly Preventative Maintenance System to check it.
Those apply a voltage to force the corrosion equation into a passive state.
I've seen one in operation on a 2MG mild steel tank with nasty water of pH 4 last for decades.
I'm not sure that I'd like one on (say) a domestic water system...unless you establish a weekly Preventative Maintenance System to check it.
A Google search for "powered anode" turns up lots of information. I have no experience with them, but am interested because they are supposed to protect from softened water much better. An aftermarket one might void your warranty, so that is a something to consider.
Merit? Yes!
Powered water heater anodes are far better than sacrificial metal anodes, and they never have to be replaced. In the past they have not been an economical option, but several companies are now marketing reasonably priced powered anodes. IMO, this is a worthwhile investment, particularly if you have low quality water.
Notice the 4.6 star rating on this one (about the highest rating that you will ever see on an Amazon product)...
https://www.amazon.com/Corro-Protec-CP-R-Titanium-Powered-Heater/dp/B01H459TAK/
Some water heater manufacturers are even getting in on the act...
https://www.amazon.com/100305721-Product-Preservers-Powered-System/dp/B07K27ZF8L/
Use one like this if you have a hot water outlet nipple type anode...
https://www.amazon.com/Monitoring-Smelling-Internal-Corrosion-Installation/dp/B074XC19J6/
Powered water heater anodes are far better than sacrificial metal anodes, and they never have to be replaced. In the past they have not been an economical option, but several companies are now marketing reasonably priced powered anodes. IMO, this is a worthwhile investment, particularly if you have low quality water.
Notice the 4.6 star rating on this one (about the highest rating that you will ever see on an Amazon product)...
https://www.amazon.com/Corro-Protec-CP-R-Titanium-Powered-Heater/dp/B01H459TAK/
Some water heater manufacturers are even getting in on the act...
https://www.amazon.com/100305721-Product-Preservers-Powered-System/dp/B07K27ZF8L/
Use one like this if you have a hot water outlet nipple type anode...
https://www.amazon.com/Monitoring-Smelling-Internal-Corrosion-Installation/dp/B074XC19J6/
Originally Posted by doitmyself
A Google search for "powered anode" turns up lots of information. I have no experience with them, but am interested because they are supposed to protect from softened water much better. An aftermarket one might void your warranty, so that is a something to consider.
I have a water softener, I never knew that was bad for the water heater.
A Google search for "powered anode" turns up lots of information. I have no experience with them, but am interested because they are supposed to protect from softened water much better. An aftermarket one might void your warranty, so that is a something to consider.
I have a water softener, I never knew that was bad for the water heater.
Originally Posted by PW01
Originally Posted by doitmyself
A Google search for "powered anode" turns up lots of information. I have no experience with them, but am interested because they are supposed to protect from softened water much better. An aftermarket one might void your warranty, so that is a something to consider.
I have a water softener, I never knew that was bad for the water heater.
Water softeners add salt to the water. Salt water is much more corrosive than water that doesn't have salt in it. How much salt it adds depends on how much "hardness" was in the water to begin with. The softener "exchanges" about an equal amount of sodium for the initial hardness. The harder the water, the more sodium you'll have added to the final product.
Originally Posted by doitmyself
A Google search for "powered anode" turns up lots of information. I have no experience with them, but am interested because they are supposed to protect from softened water much better. An aftermarket one might void your warranty, so that is a something to consider.
I have a water softener, I never knew that was bad for the water heater.
Water softeners add salt to the water. Salt water is much more corrosive than water that doesn't have salt in it. How much salt it adds depends on how much "hardness" was in the water to begin with. The softener "exchanges" about an equal amount of sodium for the initial hardness. The harder the water, the more sodium you'll have added to the final product.
Hard water can shorten the life of a water heater also, so there are compromises either way. Softened water can eat up a regular anode rod faster and the powered anodes are supposed to be immune from soft water degradation.
I wonder if this is something I should invest in
The price point seems to be iffy to me. You can buy standard magnesium rods for $20 and flexible rods for about $35. With the powered rods selling for about $110 (and even double @ $200+), it's probably cheaper to just buy the conventional rods.
If you have soft water eating up rods every 2-3 years and/or you have rotten egg smell, the powered anode rod might be a good solution?
Also consider that today's heaters are built to last only 8 to 15 years +/-, not just the tank, but the other components too (burner, controls, etc.) Do the powered anodes last well beyond their 7 year warranty
?
Removing your existing rod can be very difficult, some claiming that an impact wrench is required. I've also read that on older tanks where the OEM rod is really corroded in, you might end up damaging the glass lining if you beat on the anode rod nut too hard (just parroting comments from the excellent Terry Love plumbing forum). I've tried twice to remove anode rods with 4 ft. cheater bars and failed to loosen them!
If you have soft water eating up rods every 2-3 years and/or you have rotten egg smell, the powered anode rod might be a good solution?
Also consider that today's heaters are built to last only 8 to 15 years +/-, not just the tank, but the other components too (burner, controls, etc.) Do the powered anodes last well beyond their 7 year warranty
Removing your existing rod can be very difficult, some claiming that an impact wrench is required. I've also read that on older tanks where the OEM rod is really corroded in, you might end up damaging the glass lining if you beat on the anode rod nut too hard (just parroting comments from the excellent Terry Love plumbing forum). I've tried twice to remove anode rods with 4 ft. cheater bars and failed to loosen them!
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Removing your existing rod can be very difficult, some claiming that an impact wrench is required. I've also read that on older tanks where the OEM rod is really corroded in, you might end up damaging the glass lining if you beat on the anode rod nut too hard (just parroting comments from the excellent Terry Love plumbing forum). I've tried twice to remove anode rods with 4 ft. cheater bars and failed to loosen them!
The problem with getting the anode out is that the factory uses Loctite Red on the threads when they install them, which basically glues them in. The only reason I can think of for why the factory would do this is that they want to sell you a new water heater every 10 years, so they don't want you replacing the anode.
The easiest way to get the anode out is with an air impact wrench, but not just any one will do, you need a seriously industrial strength air impact wrench (very expensive) and a strong compressor to do it.
Passive sacrificial metal anode rods only generate a very small voltage and current. Active powered anodes inject a MUCH higher voltage and current, so they are MUCH more effective at preventing corrosion. It is almost always a tank failure that necessitates a water heater replacement. If/when any of the other components fail, they are reasonably easy and inexpensive to replace.
Removing your existing rod can be very difficult, some claiming that an impact wrench is required. I've also read that on older tanks where the OEM rod is really corroded in, you might end up damaging the glass lining if you beat on the anode rod nut too hard (just parroting comments from the excellent Terry Love plumbing forum). I've tried twice to remove anode rods with 4 ft. cheater bars and failed to loosen them!
The problem with getting the anode out is that the factory uses Loctite Red on the threads when they install them, which basically glues them in. The only reason I can think of for why the factory would do this is that they want to sell you a new water heater every 10 years, so they don't want you replacing the anode.
The easiest way to get the anode out is with an air impact wrench, but not just any one will do, you need a seriously industrial strength air impact wrench (very expensive) and a strong compressor to do it.
Passive sacrificial metal anode rods only generate a very small voltage and current. Active powered anodes inject a MUCH higher voltage and current, so they are MUCH more effective at preventing corrosion. It is almost always a tank failure that necessitates a water heater replacement. If/when any of the other components fail, they are reasonably easy and inexpensive to replace.
There is value in replacing a periodic maintenance item with a low to no maintenance item, especially if it's easy to forget. Remembering to replace 3 $30 anode rods over a lifetime or installing a $105 powered anode once makes it worth the extra cost.
In my case I had an outlet next to my water heater. If you had to have someone bring power to the water heater might not make the ROI work.
In my case I had an outlet next to my water heater. If you had to have someone bring power to the water heater might not make the ROI work.
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Originally Posted by tom slick
There is value in replacing a periodic maintenance item with a low to no maintenance item, especially if it's easy to forget. Remembering to replace 3 $30 anode rods over a lifetime or installing a $105 powered anode once makes it worth the extra cost.
In my case I had an outlet next to my water heater. If you had to have someone bring power to the water heater might not make the ROI work.
There is one very easy and inexpensive way to bring power to your water heater, it is called an extension cord
Also, for those of you who have an electric water heater, it is easy to add an outlet to the top where the power wire enters.
There is value in replacing a periodic maintenance item with a low to no maintenance item, especially if it's easy to forget. Remembering to replace 3 $30 anode rods over a lifetime or installing a $105 powered anode once makes it worth the extra cost.
In my case I had an outlet next to my water heater. If you had to have someone bring power to the water heater might not make the ROI work.
There is one very easy and inexpensive way to bring power to your water heater, it is called an extension cord
Also, for those of you who have an electric water heater, it is easy to add an outlet to the top where the power wire enters.
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