Effectiveness of Mobil 1 0W-40 in below zero temps.

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I have a couple of Dodge Sprinters (with MB five cylinder diesel engine) and am about to buy another. The manufacturer specs Mobil 1 0W-40 winter and summer, with 10,000 mile o/c intervals. My local mechanic says that in the summer a semi-synthetic 10W-40 with o/c's every 5000 miles will save me money and be just as effective. Any opinions? Also, I've been advised by a friend that using a block heater is better for the engine, even though there is no problem starting it in the cold. I've taken his advice on the two I have, but now the dealer I'm buying the new one from is telling me that I don't need a block heater; that these engines are fine without them. Can 0W-40 still flow at temps as low as 30 below? Is a block heater superfluous?

--Randy George
 
Well, I think your local mechanic isn't really up on oils.
Personally, I'd look for a synthetic diesel oil, such as AMSOIL 5W-30 HDD, 5W-40 AFL, or Mobil SUV 5W-40. I'd then start taking oil samples at the recommended drain intervals, and extendind the drains per lab recommendations. That will save you money and be more effective.

The above listed synthetics will flow well below -50 F.

Block heater will allow quicker warmup and heat into cab, but not really necessary in my opinion.
 
Randy

I've got an 04 Sprinter. I've used Delvac 1 in the past, but now I use M1 5-40 T&SUV which if not exactly the same formulation, it's close enough for me. M1 0-40 flows at very cold temps. I've put some in my freezer, and it flows darn near the same as when warm. I wouldn't worry at all about the 0-40 flowing at -30. I stopped using 0-40 because from what I undestand, it's not the most shear stable oil. My Sprinter seems to run better and quieter with M1 5-40 T&SUV. FWIW, I also use 1/2 oz per quart of VSOT.

You might want to look at the thread ' Wolverine Heater Vs Block Heater ' in the Mechanical / Maintenance Problems, Tips, and Tricks. I posted a few of my opinions on block heaters which I feel are important in cold weather operation, as well as oil pan heaters, which I feel are equally as important and together they make a better cold weather heating solution than either do on their own.

I see your in Vermont. You made the right call installing a coolant heater.

Good luck with your Sprinters.
 
quote:

semi-synthetic 10W-40 with o/c's every 5000 miles

This is NOT an oil made for the high temperature of a turbocharge. If the engine maker requires a synthetic oil in a turbo engine, USE IT! The heat of the turbocharger can cook the non-synthetic oil to carbon, ruin the bearings, and ruin the turbocharger. Or, what happened in the VW/Audi engines, is that the non-synthetic oil was cooked but left the carbon in the rest of the engine...big buck fixes.


Ken
 
Ken,

How about an HDEO 10W-40? HDEOs are designed to handle turbos. I have a turbo charger in my '95 Power Stroke DIT and run Delo 400 15W-40 which is not a synthetic. It is an HDEO. Would an HDEO 10W-40 work?

Bob A.
 
I would use any of the 5w40 syn diesel oil's. I'm particularly fond of Chevron and Shaeffers, although almost any modern 5w40 diesel oil will do fine. I'm about to start a test with Castrol Hypuron 15w40, it's a little pricey for a blend but maybe not for the performance value?

I use the engine heaters in all of my diesels year round. They are more important in the winter, but effective in summer as well, IMO. In the light duty Fords and IH's the factory heater heats both the oil and coolant. The faster everything is to operating temps and all clearances normalize the better wearing and longer lasting an engine will be. This seems to be working in my case.


Patrick
cheers.gif
 
now I will have to go out and check out the diesel engine in the Sprinter.
From the winter climate here in Fairbanks Alaska, admittedly extreme, I find three items necessary to assure a start here in the winter whether, esp -30 F,; 1/ Block or freeze plug heater, probably 2 in that size unit;, 2/Silicon oil pan heater pad (even with syn); 3/ Since we are in cold AND darkness and add the occasional snow, and its hard on electrical, I suggest a small 1.5 amp charger with a full charge shut-off.
Optionally, if an automatic trans, I again suggest a silcon pad on the trans pan.
Often times we need to resolve issues in-context of no heated shop etc, so when my Volvo starter wouldnt turn at -34 F. from the oil dripped it by a bad valve cover gasket, I magnetically attached a 20w silicon heater pad to it, no problem since. Now I did change out the valve cover gasket, and that fixed it, but often in the middle of winter, acquiring a new (to me) D24 diesel presents some novel challenges!!
Enjoy your new units !!

Nick
 
In not so extreme temperatures, say around 10F, it works fine in my Saab 9-3, with minimal noise.

I found M1 T&SUV/Delvac 1 to be optimal for the OM617 and OM603 engines I have - in all climates.

JMH
 
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