Echo Red Armor Oil

Jaso FB rated? I have no clue what that is. I run it because it burns cleaner. The regular oil is nasty.
A quick google turned up this mostly informative link to educate you.

The echo red armor and others are JASO FD.

The JASO 2-stroke oil classifications are:

  • JASO FA: This is the lowest specification that tests lubrication capability, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking. This specification has been officially declared obsolete in 2005 although it is still being used.
  • JASO FB: This specification is slightly higher than JASO FA and tests the same characteristics. It requires increased lubrication capability, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking. It corresponds with ISO Global Specification EGB.
  • JASO FC: This specification requires the same results for the tests of lubrication capability and initial torque as JASO FB but has higher standards for detergency and exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking. It corresponds with ISO Global Specification EGC.
  • JASO FD: This specification has the same standards as JASO FC except for a higher detergency requirement. It corresponds with ISO Global Specification EGD.
 
A quick google turned up this mostly informative link to educate you.

The echo red armor and others are JASO FD.

You made me go into the kitchen and grab a bottle. It says "Meets JASO FB" on the back of the bottle in bold print.

Right above the mixing directions.
 
AFAIK stihl ultra is only jaso FB rated.. unless something changed recently.
That’s why I won’t use the Stihl oil or premix - I’ll use it if there’s no other alternative. I’m sold on Husky XP+, SEF and Red Armor. TruFuel has no business in Echo or Stihl gear.
 
That’s why I won’t use the Stihl oil or premix - I’ll use it if there’s no other alternative. I’m sold on Husky XP+, SEF and Red Armor. TruFuel has no business in Echo or Stihl gear.
I get cans of vp racing brand fuel for 1 or 1.25 on clearance in the fall... shelf life 5 years... but mostly use the 90 octane ethanol free pump gas with echo red armor.
 
Really, any EG-D oil, mixed at 32 to 1, will, for this discussion, provide all the protection possible.

As always, there really is no magic. I think most, if not all EG-D oils use a polyisobutene base stock, replacing the smokey bright stock that was common years ago. The use of more oil does typically reduce engine wear rates, especially as RPM increases.
 
Fixed jet carbs stick to the prescribed mix ratio. More oil = less fuel. Less fuel = leaner mixture. In 2 strokes lean is mean, exhaust side edges of pistons get too hot and melt or centers of pistons get holed. Fuel actually cools pistons.
Been there, done that on multiple 2 stroke big snowmobile engines over the years with lean fuel mixtures running at 8k rpm.
 
Fixed jet carbs stick to the prescribed mix ratio. More oil = less fuel. Less fuel = leaner mixture. In 2 strokes lean is mean, exhaust side edges of pistons get too hot and melt or centers of pistons get holed. Fuel actually cools pistons.
Been there, done that on multiple 2 stroke big snowmobile engines over the years with lean fuel mixtures running at 8k rpm.
Yep, 100%. Meanwhile I have customers with these machines that insist on running 40:1 or 32:1 because "more oil must be better". :rolleyes:
 
Sthil recommends less oil to meet EPA requirements and this is called a "lean" mixture (ie 50:1):


Second paragraph - excerpt below:

"Modern internal combustion engines, in particular single-cylinder internal combustion engines, are operated with a lean mixture for environmental reasons; this may cause an increased operating temperature. In order to ensure a satisfactory cooling action, a corresponding volume stream of cooling air must flow through the motor housing. On the other hand, increased operating temperatures also cause a corresponding heating of attached parts, for example, the exhaust gas muffler."

=======================================================================

More oil in the mix runs the engine cooler and the engine subsequently lasts longer. Chainsaw millers use 32:1 for longer engine life and cooler running. I run 32:1 for my Stihl MS880 and have no exhaust side damage or wear due to overheating. Damage to a two-stroke piston on the exhaust port is usually due to overheating caused by a carburetor not being adjusted properly for the fuel mixture being run:


or


This particular patent is from 2009 and deals specifically with moving more air over the engine to cool it better because of the increased operating temperatures due to the 50:1 fuel mix requirement to meet EPA standards.

Stihl specifically called out the 50:1 mix as "lean", compared to earlier years when their saws ran 20:1, 24:1, and 32:1.
 
Last edited:
Fixed jet carbs stick to the prescribed mix ratio. More oil = less fuel. Less fuel = leaner mixture. In 2 strokes lean is mean, exhaust side edges of pistons get too hot and melt or centers of pistons get holed. Fuel actually cools pistons.
Been there, done that on multiple 2 stroke big snowmobile engines over the years with lean fuel mixtures running at 8k rpm.
I go to a gas station that lets me pay down to the penny. I calculate the amount to purchase exactly 2.5 gallons so that the pump shuts off at that point. My STIHL equipment are all 4-Mix engines with easy to adjust air/fuel mixture. All I need is the special 4mm nut driver that STIHL provides.

And in case the EPA is reading this, I know way more about carburetors and clean air than you do.
 
Looking to buy an Echo hand held blower pb-2520 and want to get input on using Red Armor oil for warranty and durability. I already have a Husqvarna/ Redmax 150BT that runs good on Poulan Pro/Husky semi-synth oil , which is ISO-L-EGD and JASO FD certified as Echo requires for warranty. Last I check is was made by Spectrum. I would like to keep one can of premix. Is the Red Armor worth the 50% price premium over the Poulan Pro or any other quality oil?
I buy one bottle of oil that makes "5 gallons of gas" about once a year. I'm no that worried if it costs a few dollars more.
 
Back
Top