2 Cycle Oil Questions

[T120]

Looking at the crankcase, i would be wondering if the fins were partially blocked and you had an overheating prob.
No sign of detonation on crown, but that oil has got really hot. With all that oil/carbon on the gudgeon, it looks like the machine has run at less than full throttle for a while
But it's always hard diagnosing when you're not first on the scene

 

[Cujet]

Here is what TCW3 does to a Echo SRM-225 that specifies a JASO FD oil. The ring is partially stuck and the exhaust port is nasty i got this trimmer from a LCO in my area that ran quicksilver outboard oil in everything.

That particular model has a known carb tuning issue. The problem there may not be related to the type of oil used. Additionally, it is a 50 hour engine, not the same version as the commercial 300 hour Echo engines. Was the ring stuck with carbon, or was it an overheated piston that grabbed the ring?

In the case of OPE 2 strokes, many people do not spend the time to warm them up for 30 seconds or so.

But any way you slice it, I prefer EG-D or FC-FD oils.

 

[jake wells]

That particular model has a known carb tuning issue. The problem there may not be related to the type of oil used. Additionally, it is a 50 hour engine, not the same version as the commercial 300 hour Echo engines. Was the ring stuck with carbon, or was it an overheated piston that grabbed the ring?

In the case of OPE 2 strokes, many people do not spend the time to warm them up for 30 seconds or so.

But any way you slice it, I prefer EG-D or FC-FD oils.

this engine is rated at 300 hours the carb tune was fine the oil was quicksilver tcw3.

 

[Cujet]

this engine is rated at 300 hours the carb tune was fine the oil was quicksilver tcw3.

I've been wrong before, so don't hold me to this, but I thought the Echo 300 hour engines had dual rings and the 50 hour engines had a single ring.

 

[jake wells]

I've been wrong before, so don't hold me to this, but I thought the Echo 300 hour engines had dual rings and the 50 hour engines had a single ring.

My 300 hour echo srm 2320t has one ring.

 

[revhead_ozzy]

To answer your questions, in this situation the ISO-GD would be the same as ISO-L-EGD rating. The mix ratio isn't quite as critical as it's made out to appear but for peace of mind you could mix all of your equipment at 40:1 to ensure you're getting adequate oiling to the rotating pieces. On the same note, you could mix all of your equipment at 50:1 and not have any issues.

The only tidbit of information to be cognizant of with your lawn equipment is that nearly all of the pieces of equipment will tell you to use oil rated for air cooled equipment. Note that there is a difference between air cooled, hand held equipment and water cooled boat motors. Nearly all modern OPE (outdoor power equipment) manufacturers state to NOT USE TC-W3 oil. In your situation, the Lucas oil that claims to meet JASO FD will be perfect for your trimmer.

Sorry to open an old thread, but would a dirt bike like a Yamaha yz125 which has a radiator still be considered “air cooled”?

 

[FowVay]

Sorry to open an old thread, but would a dirt bike like a Yamaha yz125 which has a radiator still be considered “air cooled”?

Dirt bikes are considerably more stressed than outdoor power equipment. For racing dirt bikes I always used the racers rules which have been published by oil companies such as Klotz, Maxima, Torco, etc. These companies that are heavily involved in motorsport racing say that the smaller the displacement and the higher the engines revs, the more oil it needs. Small, high RPM 125cc race bikes should be mixed in the 32:1 range. Larger bore open class bikes that flow a lot of fuel and rev slower can get by with less oil in the fuel. There have been mathematical explanations demonstrating the length of time the oil stays in the pocket of these engines and this is where the recommendations come from.

Note that racing oils from many manufacturers (Klotz is one example) and a few oils sold by the OEM manufacturers (Kawasaki is one example) as their own racing oils are ashless. They aren't relying on metallic ash to keep things clean so the ashless/low ash argument doesn't seem to hold much water with modern formulations.

A couple of my very favorite racing bike oils are Honda HP2 (it's EXCELLENT and inexpensive) and Torco GP7 (it's EXCELLENT and pricey).

Yes, your bike is water cooled but the application is not comparable to a constant RPM boat motor.