Eating my Dexcool words, like ketchup on crow.

[Pablo]

I tore the Nissens radiator out of the 245Ti Volvo this PM.

It was leaking at the seam toward the top under the top hold down clamp. I cleaned all the paint and crust and garbage away.

I was wrong. The Dexcool did NOT eat the solder away, or if it did, the solder was only covering very poor workmanship. It would have been difficult to see under the paint. I am actually surprised it didn't leak before, the way the sheet metal was joined and soldered during manufacture.

I formed the metal, fluxed and soldered with acid core solder. It took the solder nicely.

I'll find out tomorrow if it leaks. Wow.

 

[got boost?]

fwiw I've found dexcool to be superior to regular coolant in terms of long term protection.

 

[MarkC]

Me too.

 

[mormit]

Pablo: Since your vehicles are already on Dexcool you might as well stick with it. Many of the 'Deathcool' problems I have heard of are from vehicles switched from green to orange or vice versa. Mixing the two is bad and any missed by an inadequate flush creates a problem.

That said, I'm sticking with green. I have never had a radiator fail on me. All nine vehicles I have owned have used regular coolant (except the 73 and 74 Super Beetles). Only two water pump replacements out of the remaining seven.

[ September 20, 2003, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: mormit ]

 

[Pablo]

Your point about mixing is true (regardless of what the coolant companies say!)

I did change back to green in the 245Ti, though. I did a thorough flush, ran 100% water for a day, then in went the green. This was all the week before last, that 1.5 week old green all came out with ANOTHER flush and fill yesterday when I soldered the rad. Little chance any orange left (but what a waste of coolant).

The solder job is holding up great, so far.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

Pablo,

I'd consider replacing the thermostat also as most times a leak occurs due to an momentary excessive pressure(like sticky thermostats or during shut down). This causes the weakest point in the system to blow out, in this case, the radiator. Now that's fixed, it may find another spot, weak hose, or another part of the radiator. Also, check the pop pressure of the radiator cap. It should blow or release at the rated pressure on the cap(most are 13-16lbs) This too is a common problem when you shut down, the cap should allow for excessive pressure to escape out, but the cap may not then creating excessive pressure in the cooling system.

 

[Pablo]

Bob - I didn't get too Volvo specific - I installed a new functioning cap (10-12psi), new functioning 82°C thermostat, and very important in red block Volvi - a new unclogged 3/8" hose that runs from the small rad. to snout to the pressurized expansion tank.

This hose if clogged, blocked can cause all sorts of filling and pressure problems and by it's nature can get clogged if the car is having coolant/rad problems.

 

[VaderSS]

quote:

---

Many of the 'Deathcool' problems I have heard of are from vehicles switched from green to orange or vice versa.

---

I had never hear of Dexcool problems until I got my Impala. I've put Dex in several older vehicals with no problem. It was when I got a vehicle the CAME with Dexcool that I had my first problems...

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Pablo:
Bob - I didn't get too Volvo specific - I installed a new functioning cap (10-12psi), new functioning 82°C thermostat, and very important in red block Volvi - a new unclogged 3/8" hose that runs from the small rad. to snout to the pressurized expansion tank.

This hose if clogged, blocked can cause all sorts of filling and pressure problems and by it's nature can get clogged if the car is having coolant/rad problems.

---

yer a smart man

Not many would think about that.
have a good one.