I just came across Eastwood ZDDP oil additive?? Has anyone had any experience with this?
Says it for High Performance and Classic Cars.
Says it for High Performance and Classic Cars.
Eastwood ZDDP
- Thread starter jughead500
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I'd use Amsoil ZROD oil vs an additive.
If you use an oil suited to your engine there is never a good case for using oil additives unless you have an engine problem that can't be fixed. If you have an old block motor that needs lots of Zinc use a high mileage or classic oil.
Most cam lobe wear issues are the result of not using the correct oil to break in a rebuild, or the use of Cheap parts that would have failed regardless of what additives are in the oil.
Snake oil has been around a lot longer than even multi grade, but folks still read the lies and use it to interfere with the well designed additives of a modern engine oil.
Originally Posted By: jughead500
I just came across Eastwood ZDDP oil additive?? Has anyone had any experience with this?
Says it for High Performance and Classic Cars.
Most cam lobe wear issues are the result of not using the correct oil to break in a rebuild, or the use of Cheap parts that would have failed regardless of what additives are in the oil.
Snake oil has been around a lot longer than even multi grade, but folks still read the lies and use it to interfere with the well designed additives of a modern engine oil.
Originally Posted By: jughead500
I just came across Eastwood ZDDP oil additive?? Has anyone had any experience with this?
Says it for High Performance and Classic Cars.
Gm makes a zddp additive. Try it.
Red line makes one too.
There are a LOT of threads here on ZDDP, plus many VOAs and used oil analysis documenting the amount of zinc and phosphorous in racing oils, HDEOs and other "boutique" oils such as Brad Penn.
The amount needed in a flat tappet engine AFTER break-in is notably dependent on spring pressures. Adequate zinc/phosphorous is critical at break-in.
Widman's papoer gives a good overview indpendent of addiives (http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html) and no less an expert than the late Joe Mondello noted some level of ZDDP additive would not hurt in an article of the American Engine Rebuilder Association's magazine in 2010:
http://www.aera.org/ep/downloads/ep12/EP10-2010_28-42.pdf (toward the end; page 15). His statements on the amount of zinc in the emerging SN oils were a tad low, but I've found the Cam-Shield an easy to use additive as I can measure just a small amount to add to Rotella or Delo HDEO in my two "classics".
An older unrestored engine is just as likely to have other failures as much as a failed camshaft and/or lifters.
14000 miles later on my 289 with fairly stiff springs, all I can say is that Rotella or Delo with 1/2 ounce to an ounce of Cam-Shield has not harmed anything yet, including six track days with plenty of WOT. I consider it insurance but am also aware that too MUCH zinc can also be harmful.
Keep studying.
Kevin
The amount needed in a flat tappet engine AFTER break-in is notably dependent on spring pressures. Adequate zinc/phosphorous is critical at break-in.
Widman's papoer gives a good overview indpendent of addiives (http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html) and no less an expert than the late Joe Mondello noted some level of ZDDP additive would not hurt in an article of the American Engine Rebuilder Association's magazine in 2010:
http://www.aera.org/ep/downloads/ep12/EP10-2010_28-42.pdf (toward the end; page 15). His statements on the amount of zinc in the emerging SN oils were a tad low, but I've found the Cam-Shield an easy to use additive as I can measure just a small amount to add to Rotella or Delo HDEO in my two "classics".
An older unrestored engine is just as likely to have other failures as much as a failed camshaft and/or lifters.
14000 miles later on my 289 with fairly stiff springs, all I can say is that Rotella or Delo with 1/2 ounce to an ounce of Cam-Shield has not harmed anything yet, including six track days with plenty of WOT. I consider it insurance but am also aware that too MUCH zinc can also be harmful.
Keep studying.
Kevin
Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
14000 miles later on my 289 with fairly stiff springs, all I can say is that Rotella or Delo with 1/2 ounce to an ounce of Cam-Shield has not harmed anything yet, including six track days with plenty of WOT.
Straight line for 1/8, or 1/4 mile "track", or twisting circuit type "track"??
14000 miles later on my 289 with fairly stiff springs, all I can say is that Rotella or Delo with 1/2 ounce to an ounce of Cam-Shield has not harmed anything yet, including six track days with plenty of WOT.
Straight line for 1/8, or 1/4 mile "track", or twisting circuit type "track"??
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Straight line for 1/8, or 1/4 mile "track", or twisting circuit type "track"??
Thunderhill Raceway Park in Northern California; 15 turns. No racing; just open track days for fun. I'm still learning.
Straight line for 1/8, or 1/4 mile "track", or twisting circuit type "track"??
Thunderhill Raceway Park in Northern California; 15 turns. No racing; just open track days for fun. I'm still learning.
check this one out,,,http://www.zddplus.com/,,,,,,i have used it for 3 years.
A good ZDDP additive is great for older and many high performance cars.
Both for break in and for running.
There ARE downsides to overdosing - not just the cat converter.
Keep it reasonable, and still expect some wear. Old car's cam/ lifters with oil high in ZDDP still wore a lot.
Both for break in and for running.
There ARE downsides to overdosing - not just the cat converter.
Keep it reasonable, and still expect some wear. Old car's cam/ lifters with oil high in ZDDP still wore a lot.
TO: mechtech2 do very big cams, ie race, wear a LOT faster than a street mild cam. i have never had a big for a long time.
Why not just run Rotella T5 10w30 with its 1200 ppm of zinc if the ZDDP content is actually important to a certain engine?
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