Eastwood internal frame coating
- Thread starter HangmanLI
- Start date
I'd use fluid film with an air compressor gun and long hose. lot more power than the spray cans do.
Used it on my 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Works great. There is the green and the black. Certainly helped my situation a lot. I sprayed the spray with the long tube/hose. Insert the full distance spray and slowly pull out.
Put a tarp or something on the driveway/floor, it will run out and ruin your driveway or floor.
I also used the black brush on for my rusty oil pan and it stopped the rust. Do not reinsert brush in can as it will chemically alter the rest of the can. Put some in a separate cup to apply.
I believe the green is more effective, but obviously does not look as good, so I went over the visible areas in black. That was years ago and areas treated are doing well.
POR15 is great also.
Put a tarp or something on the driveway/floor, it will run out and ruin your driveway or floor.
I also used the black brush on for my rusty oil pan and it stopped the rust. Do not reinsert brush in can as it will chemically alter the rest of the can. Put some in a separate cup to apply.
I believe the green is more effective, but obviously does not look as good, so I went over the visible areas in black. That was years ago and areas treated are doing well.
POR15 is great also.
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I have not personally used Eastwood products. But I have seen some very positive reviews of Eastwood undercoating and frame coating products. People report that it lasts for years, unlike Fluid Film and similar products, that have to be reapplied annually.
Some people layer, applying the Eastwood first, and then apply Fluid Film or Krown over the top.
Some people layer, applying the Eastwood first, and then apply Fluid Film or Krown over the top.
I imported a diesel Defender from Southern France in 2012. After a thorough flush I used the green Eastwood product, took about 4 cans IIRC. As you noted, they provide long spray wands for internal application. The stuff is durable, tough to remove from where you don't want it and seemed to be effective. If it were me again and the vehicle would be seeing salt, I would prep, use the Eastwood internal coating, let that cure a good long while then use Waxoyl or a similar product.
I was happy enough with the first use that I've used in on several of the other cars in the fleet.
Messy....and the long wands are effectively single use; they plug.
I was happy enough with the first use that I've used in on several of the other cars in the fleet.
Messy....and the long wands are effectively single use; they plug.
I've used it, the green one from Eastwood and it's awesome. I didn't use it inside the frame, used it for surface rust around the firewall in the engine bay, more like the top of the fender area. Since it's sensitive to UV (without a top coat) the sun doesn't shine in those corners of my car anyway. Reminds me of that candy coating dip they used to offer at the ice cream shop. Goes on wet, then hardens to a candy hard coating. I know that's funny but that's how it looked to me as the green coating dried/hardened. You could tell it was a runny type thin liquid, it crept into all the cracks/crevices, which is a good thing! I used a inspection camera to watch it up close and it looked like the rusty (surface rust) soaked it up like a sponge! I think it took 24-48 hours and it was dried and hard.
The whole point of stopping rust in its tracks is stopping any oxygen from getting to it anymore and this stuff does it very well. Yes I'd say it's like POR15 but without all the steps to make sure the surface is prepped,etc. All you need to do is blow out any debris and then spray! boom! done..
The whole point of stopping rust in its tracks is stopping any oxygen from getting to it anymore and this stuff does it very well. Yes I'd say it's like POR15 but without all the steps to make sure the surface is prepped,etc. All you need to do is blow out any debris and then spray! boom! done..
I did the passenger side with an air needle tool, cordless drill with various wire wheels. And I used the air compressor nozzle to blow out loose debris inside the frame openings.I've used it, the green one from Eastwood and it's awesome. I didn't use it inside the frame, used it for surface rust around the firewall in the engine bay, more like the top of the fender area. Since it's sensitive to UV (without a top coat) the sun doesn't shine in those corners of my car anyway. Reminds me of that candy coating dip they used to offer at the ice cream shop. Goes on wet, then hardens to a candy hard coating. I know that's funny but that's how it looked to me as the green coating dried/hardened. You could tell it was a runny type thin liquid, it crept into all the cracks/crevices, which is a good thing! I used a inspection camera to watch it up close and it looked like the rusty (surface rust) soaked it up like a sponge! I think it took 24-48 hours and it was dried and hard.
The whole point of stopping rust in its tracks is stopping any oxygen from getting to it anymore and this stuff does it very well. Yes I'd say it's like POR15 but without all the steps to make sure the surface is prepped,etc. All you need to do is blow out any debris and then spray! boom! done..
I read one comment on YouTube where he said put duct tape over the frame openings. This way it didn’t leak out. I’m going to try it that way. Then remove the tape the next day. This way the Eastwood product stays inside
That's a great point to use tape to make sure it stays in there, but if it's over applied all that happens is once the liquid seeps into everything, the rest just turns into what looks like frosting on a cake. Sits on top and hardens, no problem doing that. Definitely get a tarp under your vehicle, this stuff can go everywhere especially when sprayed full tilt from the can. You could use an inspection camera to look in after you spray to make sure you have full coverage. I found that after I got done and it dried I touched up some areas I missed.
But then again I wasn't trying to coat inside a frame, spray a little burst here and there. Might be different if you go full spray. Oh and definitely use a degreaser like SEM products Sem-Solve or the Eastwood pre-prep cleaner into the spray hose, will make sure it stays clear otherwise it'll clog up solid with the frame coating paint.
Thanks. I didn’t know that another product was needed with the Eastwood frame injection product.
How exactly do these other products work? Do you spray them into the frame first? Or spray them into the Eastwood internal frame injection tubing?
I want to understand it completely before I start.
Thanks for any clarification.
Oh I meant to clean the spray tubing out from the internal frame paint. Just take off the nozzle/button from the frame coating can and attach it to the pre-prep Eastwood can, spray and it'll remove any residue in that tubing. Otherwise if you wanted to re-use it you'd need to buy another spray tubing.
and no you don't need to spray the frame at all, your cleaning you did was exactly what you do.
and hey you're welcome! excited to see how it turns out. I love using something that tells rust where to go!
I would use an air compressor and spray gun with long spray wands. Then the product of your choice. Noxudol 700, NH Coatings, Fluid Film, Car Well, Krown.
Makes more sense to use something that neutralizes the rust and then coats it good then dry's well. Then later on oil it all you want.
All oils do is cover the rust and it keeps on rusting, may slow it down some but?
I’ve got all the front end metal cleaned up of rust (@ 99%). I sprayed everything with “rust reformer”. Let dry a few days. Today I’m hiring everything with black satin spray enamel. When the Eastwood internal frame coating arrives I’ll get that inside the frame.
Later I may use fluid film to coat everything. But from what I’ve read some of that that stuff can wash off from car washes or from deep standing water?
Fluid film stops the rust and penetrates down. I worry a coating dries and then can get flaky and develop rust underneath.
Fluid film does not have a rust converter in it like phosphoric acid that the special paints do have and that also helps them etch in so they won't flake away. In other words there is no rust left, but with oils the rust is still there. So ?
Make sure any paints used are well cured and ask the supplier if oil is okay to use on it.
IMO cosmoline is the only thing that will stay there and not wash off or collect a bunch of dirt after its fully dried.
Make sure any paints used are well cured and ask the supplier if oil is okay to use on it.
IMO cosmoline is the only thing that will stay there and not wash off or collect a bunch of dirt after its fully dried.
True but the oils creep into the rust and stay there. I've found that any of the oil based undercoating will stay on the surface better with a little surface rust to absorb into. They tend to self-heal as well, keeping the metal fully protected and wicking into areas
But nothing is perfect. Oil based undercoating do not do well with heavy, thick, chunky rust. Nothing does. You have to physically remove that.
I used it several days ago. I ran the compressor with and long air nozzle into various openings in the frame. I was surprised how much Sandy grit, and leaves came out. I kept doing it until it was clean.
Then I used the Eastwood internal frame coating. It worked real well with that 2’ tube. I was surprised how much coverage it did!
I had the front end, completely disassembled. 160 thousand miles I was replacing everything. I use the needle scaler, a cordless drill with various wire brushes. I got easily 99% of the rust removed. I sprayed that with the rust reformer paint. Waited a few days and spraying black flat enamel.
Also completely cleaned up both knuckles. I’m not sure if I can coat them with something? They probably haven’t looked this good in many years!
I’ve got a couple more parts arriving today. Then I can start putting it back together.
