E-10 just became a reality in New Brunswick. What do i need to do to prevent fuel issues using it? I use stabilizer in gas purchased for my OPE already, do I need to do more? The OPE in question is a MTD(Troy-bilt)Snowblower with a OH195SA Tecumseh, an MTD(Yardworks)Walk-behind Lawnmower with 173cc Powermore(Chonda GXV clone) and an MTD Yardman D725C String Trimmer 31cc 2-cycle engine. The owners manuals indicate I can use E-10 but give no info beyond that. My Mercury 40 is a hole different issue, Mercury doesn't recommend using E-10 in it period, so I'm not sure what to do with it yet.
E-10 and OPE, how best to use it?
- Thread starter Maritime Storm
- Start date
- Status
If you just got E10 now, I am willing to bet your premium is still Ethanol free. Just use premium going forward.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/background/energy/ethanol.html
http://www.cbc.ca/news/background/energy/ethanol.html
Last edited:
Depends on the company, they currently aren't required to add it to Supreme, however it is the cheapest way of increasing the RON numbers, and none of the gas companies have come out saying they aren't using it in their supreme.
Originally Posted By: Maritime Storm
Depends on the company, they currently aren't required to add it to Supreme, however it is the cheapest way of increasing the RON numbers, and none of the gas companies have come out saying they aren't using it in their supreme.
You need to call and ask. When I called I got answers like: "not sure, no one has ever asked before" or " I think its in all grades" You may get better answers if you email them. In Ontario Esso, Shell, Petro-Can, and Canadian Tire still have Ethanol free Premium. Husky and some others are putting it in all grades. Keep in mind, there is not enough Ethanol to treat all the gas right now. Most companies are blending it with regular to start.
Depends on the company, they currently aren't required to add it to Supreme, however it is the cheapest way of increasing the RON numbers, and none of the gas companies have come out saying they aren't using it in their supreme.
You need to call and ask. When I called I got answers like: "not sure, no one has ever asked before" or " I think its in all grades" You may get better answers if you email them. In Ontario Esso, Shell, Petro-Can, and Canadian Tire still have Ethanol free Premium. Husky and some others are putting it in all grades. Keep in mind, there is not enough Ethanol to treat all the gas right now. Most companies are blending it with regular to start.
Last edited:
You can always test the fuel to see if it has ethanol in it, and if it does how much. It's a very easy test which is based on the fact that ethanol is miscible in water and the water/ethanol mix will fall out of solution of the gasoline. Look on YouTube for videos on how to do it. Someone sells a little kit, but I just use some glass test tubes I have laying around.
I have been using StaBil marine to store fuel, and have just started using RedLine SL-1 gas additive. You can use the two of them together. RedLine SL-1 looks to be good stuff to help keep the carb, and combustion chamber clean. I do not have enough time using it yet to give any real history. PebBoys sells it. You want to use 4.43 ml of RedLine SL-1 per US Gallon.
Some say you should increase the size of the hole in the main jet a couple of thousandths to get more gas to make up for the lower btu content of E-10.
There is a test you can do with a un-lit propane torch to determine if the engine is running lean. With that information you can determine if you should increase the fuel in the air to fuel ratio, by increasing the jet size. I will be testing my Coleman generator with Tecumseh 10 HP engine with an unlit propane torch the next time we run it. If it is lean I will try increasing the main jet size.
Some say you should increase the size of the hole in the main jet a couple of thousandths to get more gas to make up for the lower btu content of E-10.
There is a test you can do with a un-lit propane torch to determine if the engine is running lean. With that information you can determine if you should increase the fuel in the air to fuel ratio, by increasing the jet size. I will be testing my Coleman generator with Tecumseh 10 HP engine with an unlit propane torch the next time we run it. If it is lean I will try increasing the main jet size.
I saw something new in WallMart today. They now have Sta-Bil Fuel Ethanol Treatment. It says it is for E-10 to E-85 fuel.
I have been dealing with E 10 for several yrs. I use a cap full of MMO every time I fuel my OPE. I also run the carb dry after evry use on my 4 strokes with shut offs. Since I started using MMO, the engines start easier and carb teardowns have stopped being a spring time ritual. A week ago I started my old IH Cadet after being stored since October. I opened the shut off, set the choke and it lit on the gas in the tank.
E-10, Sta-bil & MMO got it.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
I saw something new in WallMart today. They now have Sta-Bil Fuel Ethanol Treatment. It says it is for E-10 to E-85 fuel.
Yes, saw it up here as well. Of course I had just bought a new bottle of the original formula.
I saw something new in WallMart today. They now have Sta-Bil Fuel Ethanol Treatment. It says it is for E-10 to E-85 fuel.
Yes, saw it up here as well. Of course I had just bought a new bottle of the original formula.
I just dump it in the tank and run it. No additives. Been doing it for years, never had any problems.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
I just dump it in the tank and run it. No additives. Been doing it for years, never had any problems.
Same here. Buy the fuel, put it in whatever you're using and carry on. No snake oil or magic elixir required.
So much hysteria about E10! I don't get it???
I just dump it in the tank and run it. No additives. Been doing it for years, never had any problems.
Same here. Buy the fuel, put it in whatever you're using and carry on. No snake oil or magic elixir required.
So much hysteria about E10! I don't get it???
I buy 2, every so often 3 10L cans of gas a year for my OPE, MTD and Irving both have recommended using a fuel stabilizer with E-10 to be used OPE. Apparently E-10 likes to seperate if stored for any length of time. And like I said already, we've just been introduced to it and their seems to be mixed opinions and how avoid problems using it.
Originally Posted By: Maritime Storm
I buy 2, every so often 3 10L cans of gas a year for my OPE, MTD and Irving both have recommended using a fuel stabilizer with E-10 to be used OPE. Apparently E-10 likes to seperate if stored for any length of time. And like I said already, we've just been introduced to it and their seems to be mixed opinions and how avoid problems using it.
Year after year, I leave 15 to 25 gallons of E10 fuel with no additives out at my camp all winter (November to April).
That's usually in two 5 gallon fuel tanks on my ATVs, a full 5 gallon tank of mixed outboard fuel and two five gallon plastic containers.
In the spring, I go to camp and use the equipment and fuel as it was left. Some of that fuel will still be around well into June and can be as much as eight months old before it gets used. I've never had a problem with it.
The only issues I've ever had with fuel is gasoline from the pump being contaminated with dirt/water on occasion.
Maybe the cold weather preserves the fuel. I don't know. I do know however that it has never caused me grief.
I buy 2, every so often 3 10L cans of gas a year for my OPE, MTD and Irving both have recommended using a fuel stabilizer with E-10 to be used OPE. Apparently E-10 likes to seperate if stored for any length of time. And like I said already, we've just been introduced to it and their seems to be mixed opinions and how avoid problems using it.
Year after year, I leave 15 to 25 gallons of E10 fuel with no additives out at my camp all winter (November to April).
That's usually in two 5 gallon fuel tanks on my ATVs, a full 5 gallon tank of mixed outboard fuel and two five gallon plastic containers.
In the spring, I go to camp and use the equipment and fuel as it was left. Some of that fuel will still be around well into June and can be as much as eight months old before it gets used. I've never had a problem with it.
The only issues I've ever had with fuel is gasoline from the pump being contaminated with dirt/water on occasion.
Maybe the cold weather preserves the fuel. I don't know. I do know however that it has never caused me grief.
Kestas
Staff member
I left fuel in my snowblower all summer. When I couldn't start it this winter, I found the carb bowl with gel deposits and corroded. I drained everything out and found the fuel had separated. I can't afford to be that lazy anymore. All fuel gets drained after the season.
With all of this discussion concerning E10 fuel, I've noticed that NASCAR is now running E15 fuel in the race engines. From what the commentators have been saying, E15 produces more horse power than regular race fuel and only slightly effects mileage.
That makes me wonder how some people claim that their mileage has suffered immensely since the introduction of E10 fuel, yet NASCAR claim that the engines are actually producing more power and only burning a bit more fuel.
They do mention that E15 will attract moisture but proper containers will reduce the effects of that.
Here's a link for those interested in what NASCAR has to say:
http://www.scenedaily.com/news/articles/...w_problems.html
That makes me wonder how some people claim that their mileage has suffered immensely since the introduction of E10 fuel, yet NASCAR claim that the engines are actually producing more power and only burning a bit more fuel.
They do mention that E15 will attract moisture but proper containers will reduce the effects of that.
Here's a link for those interested in what NASCAR has to say:
http://www.scenedaily.com/news/articles/...w_problems.html
The local fuels contain some ethanol, generally about 5%.
The fuel does not run as well in my lawn equipment. I adjust the fuel screws on the chainsaw and trimmers for best results. Full power is no problem, but the idle is another story.
Using 100LL Avgas results in a stronger running engine at low RPM's and low throttle settings.
My old Kawasaki Snapper mower won't idle well at all on gas with ethanol in it and eventually stalls. 100LL runs perfectly.
The fuel does not run as well in my lawn equipment. I adjust the fuel screws on the chainsaw and trimmers for best results. Full power is no problem, but the idle is another story.
Using 100LL Avgas results in a stronger running engine at low RPM's and low throttle settings.
My old Kawasaki Snapper mower won't idle well at all on gas with ethanol in it and eventually stalls. 100LL runs perfectly.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
With all of this discussion concerning E10 fuel, I've noticed that NASCAR is now running E15 fuel in the race engines. From what the commentators have been saying, E15 produces more horse power than regular race fuel and only slightly effects mileage.
That makes me wonder how some people claim that their mileage has suffered immensely since the introduction of E10 fuel, yet NASCAR claim that the engines are actually producing more power and only burning a bit more fuel.
They do mention that E15 will attract moisture but proper containers will reduce the effects of that.
Here's a link for those interested in what NASCAR has to say:
http://www.scenedaily.com/news/articles/...w_problems.html
Ethanol does have some positive effects as an additive to gasoline. The main positive effect being an increase in octane rating. This would be beneficial in a high performance engine as it will allow compression ratios to be increased. This would be less beneficial in an engine that was not designed to take advantage of the higher compression ratio possibilities.
It is not debatable however that it decreases mileage. Ethanol produces about 76,000 BTU per gallon when burned. Gasoline produces about 119,000 BTU per gallon. Ethanol/Gasoline blends will produce energy per gallon relative to their respective ethanol/gasoline ratios.
Also keep in mind that a NASCAR engine is completely stripped down after each race. The chief complaint against ethanol/gasoline blends is their tendency to absorb moisture from the environment, separate, promote metal corrosion in the fuel system, and to form gums and varnishes. Most of these negative attributes only become problematic when the fuel is stored for extended periods of time. None of these negative characteristics would be a problem in a racing application.
The biggest problem with ethanol is that from an overall energy point of view, it makes no sense as a route to decrease dependence on fossil fuels. The physics are straight forward. It takes about as many BTUs from fossil fuel to produce a gallon of ethanol as you get when you burn that gallon. Therefore, ethanol does not reduce our reliance on fossil fuels nor does it reduce CO2 emissions. This is true of ethanol produced through fermentation of corn and subsequent distillation. In the future, perhaps we will be able to produce ethanol from something besides a food crop, and to do so much more efficiently, but today E10 is just another government boondoggle.
With all of this discussion concerning E10 fuel, I've noticed that NASCAR is now running E15 fuel in the race engines. From what the commentators have been saying, E15 produces more horse power than regular race fuel and only slightly effects mileage.
That makes me wonder how some people claim that their mileage has suffered immensely since the introduction of E10 fuel, yet NASCAR claim that the engines are actually producing more power and only burning a bit more fuel.
They do mention that E15 will attract moisture but proper containers will reduce the effects of that.
Here's a link for those interested in what NASCAR has to say:
http://www.scenedaily.com/news/articles/...w_problems.html
Ethanol does have some positive effects as an additive to gasoline. The main positive effect being an increase in octane rating. This would be beneficial in a high performance engine as it will allow compression ratios to be increased. This would be less beneficial in an engine that was not designed to take advantage of the higher compression ratio possibilities.
It is not debatable however that it decreases mileage. Ethanol produces about 76,000 BTU per gallon when burned. Gasoline produces about 119,000 BTU per gallon. Ethanol/Gasoline blends will produce energy per gallon relative to their respective ethanol/gasoline ratios.
Also keep in mind that a NASCAR engine is completely stripped down after each race. The chief complaint against ethanol/gasoline blends is their tendency to absorb moisture from the environment, separate, promote metal corrosion in the fuel system, and to form gums and varnishes. Most of these negative attributes only become problematic when the fuel is stored for extended periods of time. None of these negative characteristics would be a problem in a racing application.
The biggest problem with ethanol is that from an overall energy point of view, it makes no sense as a route to decrease dependence on fossil fuels. The physics are straight forward. It takes about as many BTUs from fossil fuel to produce a gallon of ethanol as you get when you burn that gallon. Therefore, ethanol does not reduce our reliance on fossil fuels nor does it reduce CO2 emissions. This is true of ethanol produced through fermentation of corn and subsequent distillation. In the future, perhaps we will be able to produce ethanol from something besides a food crop, and to do so much more efficiently, but today E10 is just another government boondoggle.
- Status
