Not bad, but would suggest using wool for compound and da with polishing foam pad for polish. After all that, would suggest an economical ceramic coating, which would be far more durable than the three in one wax product. You could certainly top with that.
Durable & noob-friendly wax/sealant recommendations?
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Most of the panel preps are good at removing light polishing oils and other contaminants to clean the surface before your LSP. Prep is a good one, but you could use others. Panel preps won't remove existing protection though. Give it a shot and see how it goes.
You could use this too before applying:
Buster is right. A really good prep product that you can use with a wet wash is Fireball Wax Off. I have had a lot of success with it and it really removes old sealants and coatings nearly as well as a polishing.
Adam is a super cool guy. I met him when he started his company in a shack in Boulder Colorado. It was he his wife his friend and two little kids. Their detailing supplies and shop now are huge. From employees they moved to Idaho and pop in from time to time. I love their waffle weave towels.
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No matter what you use it's important to use it often. Even a cheap wax will keep a car looking new. Just stay far behind the big trucks hauling gravel, nothing will protect against a million little rocks hitting the frontend and hood. I know this from experience unfortunately.
Perhaps some topic drift, or feature bloat is occurring here…
OP wants something that is easy to use, presumably easy to get, relatively cheap, with durable protection the primary goal, not looks. For a biannual routine that isn't a hobby.
No doubt, prep is key to getting the best results with any coating job, whether paint or some sort of other protective coating, and the manufacturers wouldn't include such recommendations in their instructions, even for easy-to-use products, if that wasn't the case.
Being in the same boat, and having switched to GG 3/1 as my primary product, for the initial process, I've used Adam's Strip Wash (both can be had from Amazon) for prep, clayed the surface, and then the initial coat, +1 a day later as specified, and have no complaints about the results, or the durability, which is even better for a garaged vehicle.
Once that initial hump is cleared, these products are so easy to use, refreshing them is a trivial task, which can result in additional effectiveness.
OP wants something that is easy to use, presumably easy to get, relatively cheap, with durable protection the primary goal, not looks. For a biannual routine that isn't a hobby.
No doubt, prep is key to getting the best results with any coating job, whether paint or some sort of other protective coating, and the manufacturers wouldn't include such recommendations in their instructions, even for easy-to-use products, if that wasn't the case.
Being in the same boat, and having switched to GG 3/1 as my primary product, for the initial process, I've used Adam's Strip Wash (both can be had from Amazon) for prep, clayed the surface, and then the initial coat, +1 a day later as specified, and have no complaints about the results, or the durability, which is even better for a garaged vehicle.
Once that initial hump is cleared, these products are so easy to use, refreshing them is a trivial task, which can result in additional effectiveness.
Yep – you pretty much nailed what I'm after.Perhaps some topic drift, or feature bloat is occurring here…
OP wants something that is easy to use, presumably easy to get, relatively cheap, with durable protection the primary goal, not looks. For a biannual routine that isn't a hobby.
No doubt, prep is key to getting the best results with any coating job, whether paint or some sort of other protective coating, and the manufacturers wouldn't include such recommendations in their instructions, even for easy-to-use products, if that wasn't the case.
Being in the same boat, and having switched to GG 3/1 as my primary product, for the initial process, I've used Adam's Strip Wash (both can be had from Amazon) for prep, clayed the surface, and then the initial coat, +1 a day later as specified, and have no complaints about the results, or the durability, which is even better for a garaged vehicle.
Once that initial hump is cleared, these products are so easy to use, refreshing them is a trivial task, which can result in additional effectiveness.
One of the reasons I'm concerned with ease of use is that, the easier it is to do, the more likely it is that I'll do it. Basic human behavioral psychology.
I've found that the process with my previous wax – apply it, let it sit, buff it, quarantine it for a day, etc. – was involved enough that I found myself washing and waxing as few times as I thought I could get away with. That's largely why the routine is biannual. Prior to this thread, ceramic products seemed even worse in that respect.
With something like CanCoat or 3-in-1, it seems like there's still that one initial wash and application that's much more involved – but if that means successive washes and coatings are easier, that seems like a net win.
Thanks!
Yep – you pretty much nailed what I'm after.
One of the reasons I'm concerned with ease of use is that, the easier it is to do, the more likely it is that I'll do it. Basic human behavioral psychology.
I've found that the process with my previous wax – apply it, let it sit, buff it, quarantine it for a day, etc. – was involved enough that I found myself washing and waxing as few times as I thought I could get away with. That's largely why the routine is biannual. Prior to this thread, ceramic products seemed even worse in that respect.
With something like CanCoat or 3-in-1, it seems like there's still that one initial wash and application that's much more involved – but if that means successive washes and coatings are easier, that seems like a net win.
Thanks!
That's how it played out for me.
I was a Collinite 845 user, because it was durable, and had some decent pop, but the routine of warming the bottle so that it liquefied, application, waiting for it to craze, then buffing it off got tiresome.
More than once, I've found that with a spray, the intent to do some touch ups/reinforcements, like on the horizontal surfaces or wheel spray areas, ended up with a full coat on the entire car, simply because it was so quick and easy. It's like using a quick detailer, but with the durability of a full sealant.
Another benefit of these modern coatings is that they can be applied to trim, or even glass, though they're not necessarily intended for the latter. No need to take care to avoid certain areas of the car, or worry about excess remnants accumulating, and drying into a white chalky residue like an old school paste wax.
The sprays will streak if applied in excessive doses, and should not used on a hot surface like many a detailing product, but are still less potentially troublesome to apply.
Regardless of which product is chosen, I think the OP will be happy with the comparative ease of use, and durability of a modern spray sealant compared to the old school waxes.
I've tried others, like that Meguiars product the came in an aerosol can, and failed to live up to its claims, but GG 3/1 actually fulfills the promise of an easy-to-use product with good durability.
Are there better products? Certainly, but for those who aren't, or no longer have the same level of desire for detailing, it's hard to argue against, given its performance, availability, and modest cost.
CC, GG, and TW have all earned good reputations among the current breed, but others may come along as well. I'm curious about Collinite's entry into the segment.
This is what I use. It won't last 6 months though. No matter, because you can apply in less than 10 minutes. I do it about every other month, even though that's extreme. It's so easy, plus it smells good, so why not?
I have a gifted bottle of Griot's Best of Show Wax that I had intended to finish before switching to my next coating. Y'all have me feeling like that'd be adding pointless work and I'd be better off just switching to the spray ASAP! 
Best of Show is creamy – not hard to apply, but nowhere near as easy as these ceramic sprays seem to be, and I can't imagine it'll last as long.
Best of Show is creamy – not hard to apply, but nowhere near as easy as these ceramic sprays seem to be, and I can't imagine it'll last as long.
I have a gifted bottle of Griot's Best of Show Wax that I had intended to finish before switching to my next coating. Y'all have me feeling like that'd be adding pointless work and I'd be better off just switching to the spray ASAP!
No worries. I have a litany of old products on my detailing shelf, as well as a jar of Zymöl in the fridge.
Circling back to this:
Either way, what's the logic behind the alkaline -> clay -> acidic progression? (not doubting; want to learn more)
Adam's Strip Wash seems to be acidic, no? https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-strip-wash
Either way, what's the logic behind the alkaline -> clay -> acidic progression? (not doubting; want to learn more)
Acidic is more for unclogging a coating and remove minerals. Alkaline is more for road film and other organic contaminants. It seems both ends of the scale overlap on some things though. I thought Descale was good. I would just use either one and just put Griot's 3 in 1 on. Most of it is subjective. Just clean the paint as much as you can without polishing.
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Twice a year I try to detail the daily driver. I've been using old school Duragloss #105 and am happy. Easy to apply, easy to wipe off, no waiting around afterwards, and looks good with what seems to be good protection. I picked up a bottle of the #601 bonding agent to mix with it and see how that adds to the durability.
Adam's is on the North side of Denver so isn't too far out of my way so I use their wash and picked up a bottle of Graphene spray for the in-between washes last year and it seems to help as well. Plus I like to support local businesses when I can.
Adam's is on the North side of Denver so isn't too far out of my way so I use their wash and picked up a bottle of Graphene spray for the in-between washes last year and it seems to help as well. Plus I like to support local businesses when I can.
The Strip Wash was reformulated to be acidic. It's a great product, highly recommended. It's especially useful to revive "clogged" ceramic coatings, but can be used as it's named as a prep wash. I don't really think you need an alkaline wash personally, a neutral or acidic contact wash will remove anything the alkaline wash would remove, but the acids are the only things that will dissolve minerals.
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I never think about that until after the fact.
Well, the CanCoat is on! Grateful to you all for pointing me to it. I want to share what I did in case anyone has feedback, and ask a couple of follow-up questions (bottom of this post).
I used a post-HPDE cleanup as an excuse to do the more-thorough-than-normal decon I wanted to do before applying the CanCoat. Here's what I did:
Really liking Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus for the wheels, by the way. I used Sonax's Iron Remover first, but it seems Wheel Cleaner Plus has a little iron remover in it as well, so it was double the red-tinted fun! I used a little CanCoat on the wheels as well.
Aside from the Gyeon stuff, Sonax stuff, and Griot's glass coating, all the products I listed were just what I had kicking around. I think I'm going to move to mostly Gyeon and Sonax stuff when the other products run out (roughly in that order of preference).
By the time I was done with the Q2M Foam, the old wax must have been dead because water was sheeting like crazy. But when I used the Griot's Speed Shine for the clay step, I worried that I had made a mistake because water beaded up on the paint afterward. I didn't see that that product had any carnauba in it or anything but you all might know better. Either way, hoping the CARPRO Eraser killed whatever was on there.
She sure did clean up nicely for 17 years and 170k miles, IMO. Won't be winning any awards, but this pic is pretty representative of how it looks at the distance I care about, and I'm happy.
Haven't had her out in the rain yet. Will update this thread whenever that happens.
Questions:
What should I do to maintain this coating while keeping the car clean? I'm curious about spot cleaning (bird poop etc.) and future washes.
For spot cleaning, Gyeon has a Ceramic Detailer and Quick Detailer, but their videos say those products are supposed to be used on a clean surface. What should I use if I get some schmutz on the car and want to clean it off without doing a full wash?
For the next full wash, if I were to stick with the products I already have, I'd use Q2M Foam followed by CanCoat again. Is Q2M Bathe a better product to use? It's supposedly specifically for ceramic coatings; not sure if that includes CanCoat. Or, if I use Bathe+ (has SiO2), can I expect that to extend the time between CanCoat applications?
Thanks again, everyone. I'm not normally one to care much about how my cars look on the outside, but this has been fun so far!
I used a post-HPDE cleanup as an excuse to do the more-thorough-than-normal decon I wanted to do before applying the CanCoat. Here's what I did:
- Bug & tar remover (Poorboy's World)
- Iron remover (Sonax)
- Rinse
- Pre-wash w/ Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
- Rinse
- Window cleaning (Wolfgang Perfekt Vision, then clay, then Perfekt Vision again)
- Griot's Ceramic Glass Coating
- [overnight break]
- Pre-wash w/ Gyeon Q2M Foam
- Rinse
- Wash mitt w/ Gyeon Q2M Foam
- Rinse
- Towel dry [unnecessary in retrospect, yeah?]
- Clay w/ Griot's Speed Shine
- Rinse
- Towel dry
- CARPRO Eraser
- Gyeon CanCoat
- Gyeon CanCoat again
Really liking Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus for the wheels, by the way. I used Sonax's Iron Remover first, but it seems Wheel Cleaner Plus has a little iron remover in it as well, so it was double the red-tinted fun! I used a little CanCoat on the wheels as well.
Aside from the Gyeon stuff, Sonax stuff, and Griot's glass coating, all the products I listed were just what I had kicking around. I think I'm going to move to mostly Gyeon and Sonax stuff when the other products run out (roughly in that order of preference).
By the time I was done with the Q2M Foam, the old wax must have been dead because water was sheeting like crazy. But when I used the Griot's Speed Shine for the clay step, I worried that I had made a mistake because water beaded up on the paint afterward. I didn't see that that product had any carnauba in it or anything but you all might know better. Either way, hoping the CARPRO Eraser killed whatever was on there.
She sure did clean up nicely for 17 years and 170k miles, IMO. Won't be winning any awards, but this pic is pretty representative of how it looks at the distance I care about, and I'm happy.
Haven't had her out in the rain yet. Will update this thread whenever that happens.
Questions:
What should I do to maintain this coating while keeping the car clean? I'm curious about spot cleaning (bird poop etc.) and future washes.
For spot cleaning, Gyeon has a Ceramic Detailer and Quick Detailer, but their videos say those products are supposed to be used on a clean surface. What should I use if I get some schmutz on the car and want to clean it off without doing a full wash?
For the next full wash, if I were to stick with the products I already have, I'd use Q2M Foam followed by CanCoat again. Is Q2M Bathe a better product to use? It's supposedly specifically for ceramic coatings; not sure if that includes CanCoat. Or, if I use Bathe+ (has SiO2), can I expect that to extend the time between CanCoat applications?
Thanks again, everyone. I'm not normally one to care much about how my cars look on the outside, but this has been fun so far!
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