Frog lube has been debunked as snake oil, it’s hot garbage and anyone who uses it has bought into the propaganda and marketing
S
Drying parts after cleaning with water?
- Thread starter Ed_Flecko
- Start date
Frog lube has been debunked as snake oil, it’s hot garbage and anyone who uses it has bought into the propaganda and marketing
S
You can buy a small ultrasonic cleaner for $100 or so.
There are several firearm-specific agents but some just use water and a couple drops of dish soap.
Numbers don't lie... If a barrel lubricant lowers temperature, its by definition not working under at least one of its main functions. Barrel temp. can be everything in terms of accuracy. But this is their original oil they first released.
I can Believe they watered down their line up moving forward, always loved the smell, everyone does under the guides of manufacturing costs, including M-PRO.
All I know is it was applied to 2 M16a2’s according to directions and then shot hard next to 2 M16a2’s dripping wet from Slip2000 EWl
Frog lube sucked, especially when you ran it full auto, gummed up with lots of carbon, did not shed it like oil & started having malfunction while the wet ones ran great
Seems like this was around 6 months after it came out, tons of hype and talk about how great it was. Seemed like it was hard to get & ended up being a special order
Skip the dishwasher for several reasons.
But this does not mean skip water, or rather boiling water. For small steel parts there in nothing wrong with boiling them clean. Remove after a decent 15 minute + boil and the hot parts will dry quickly in the air, then into 99% isopropyl alcohol, blow dry and then into the lubricant pronto.
But this does not mean skip water, or rather boiling water. For small steel parts there in nothing wrong with boiling them clean. Remove after a decent 15 minute + boil and the hot parts will dry quickly in the air, then into 99% isopropyl alcohol, blow dry and then into the lubricant pronto.
Under normal circumstances, I use gun solvent, with a portion poured in a beaker for the small parts, followed with oil. If you have it on the shelf, Berryman B12 will displace water.
Years ago, I purchased a surplus AC42 (Walther) P.38 that was a Russian capture. The smell of the Russian equivalent of Cosmoline wouldn't come off no matter what I tried.
Taking the nuclear option, I ended up taking it to my father's auto repair shop, detail stripping and cleaning it in the Safety-Kleen solvent tank. When I got it home, a soap and water scrub, a HOT water rinse (aids drying) and compressed air, followed quickly with gun light oil, brought it back to "normal".
Years ago, I purchased a surplus AC42 (Walther) P.38 that was a Russian capture. The smell of the Russian equivalent of Cosmoline wouldn't come off no matter what I tried.
Taking the nuclear option, I ended up taking it to my father's auto repair shop, detail stripping and cleaning it in the Safety-Kleen solvent tank. When I got it home, a soap and water scrub, a HOT water rinse (aids drying) and compressed air, followed quickly with gun light oil, brought it back to "normal".
There ya have it! We were told (back then anyway) that FL is not intended for class 3 weapons.
I wouldn't be using an oil on a class 3 anyway... It should be a grease (hence TETRA).
I will be the one to be mean, for goodness sake..............
dishwasher is a stupid idea. stupid idea......and then add a dash of good idea fairy dust.
Never put metal parts, that you dont want to rust in a dishwasher.
dishwasher is a stupid idea. stupid idea......and then add a dash of good idea fairy dust.
Never put metal parts, that you dont want to rust in a dishwasher.
Forgetting putting them in the dishwasher. Hoppes will clean them just fine
Thank you all for your advice and feedback, good or bad. I sincerely appreciate it all.
Ed
Ed
Grease = hell in the desert & slip2000 EWL worked much MUCH better and was incredible when carbon was built up
Look at Uncle Pat’s Filthy 14, yes it’s old but it’s a shining example of why oil is better than grease
And yes I’ve tried multiple different firearms grease over the years Wilson’s was recommended by the smith who built my custom Colt 1911
Ya know, I cant disagree there on Grease. And I probably should have clarified by stating exempt conditions or environments of which I have not experimented in.
Complete opposite situation, years back we had guys filming a hunt in ALASKA. Due to the condensation within the rifle bolt of an AR, which we suspect was pushed into a certain location by the grease either being in the wrong areas or wrong amounts, froze and would not allow the weapon to cycle. The next day the rifle did work as intended with a tear down the night before and close attention paid to where and how much TETRA was applied, no issues after that.
I cant comment on the slip2000, I've never used it. I will say that TETRA is a Mil-Spec grease (as is M-PRO) and can be used in desert applications, you have to remember this is white, lithium based, light viscosity, grease that requires ONLY a film that is almost invisible. If you can see grease, its WAY too much, same goes for oil which goes without saying.
You may be right, on Grease in that environment, but I suspect that how its used has a lot to do with the outcome. A lubricants ability to attract particles and allow them to build up in areas that cause malfunction, is indeed a real world problem.
Make your own poor man's version of Hoppe's #9. 50/50 alcohol and kerosene. You'll be missing the 5% ammonia and the 5% "banana oil," isoamyl acetate, for the smell. But it will work well for getting grease, oil, and carbon/powder fouling off the parts.
Simple Green is not safe for use with aluminum. Unless it's the aircraft safe version. It works great too, but not better than MPro-7.
I like Outers Nitro cleaner. It cleans very well, leaves no white or very oily residue, not strong smelling.
Put small parts in ziplock bag, spray them liberally inside bag, close bag and let it sit between 20 mins and an hour. You can see how much dirt gets at the bottom thru the clear bag. Blow exceed liquid with compressed air, wipe.
Put small parts in ziplock bag, spray them liberally inside bag, close bag and let it sit between 20 mins and an hour. You can see how much dirt gets at the bottom thru the clear bag. Blow exceed liquid with compressed air, wipe.
I've never used a dish washer but have used hot water in a tub and some sort of mild floor soap. This was for my Number 4 Enfield that was caked with ancient cosmo. While it worked great to remove crude, I was prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning and oiling it after.
I have used a 5 gallon bucket, hot water, and dish soap plenty of times. It works fantastic. I do this on well used guns that haven’t been cleaned in years. I air dry, use compressed air to blow the water off, then blast everything with Remoil aerosol spray which is a fine light machine oil (but terrible lubricant).
Then dry it all off with a wipe down, and lubricate with your oil or grease of choice.
Frog lube defenders- Sure it lubricates just fine. Sure it lowered the temp of your barrel, which means less friction. You missed something. It’s a BIO based, plant based lubricant, that is marketed as bio based and biodegradable. It literally biodegrades in your gun, over time, and glues it together.
If you clean and lubricate your gun with new frog lube every month or three, you’ll never see a problem. If you stick your gun in the safe and pull it out 3 years later, it will be glued shut.
Frog lube is garbage. Every police agency in my neck of the woods has banned its use. Most police guns are shot once per year at annual qualifications and too many guns were glued shut.
Then dry it all off with a wipe down, and lubricate with your oil or grease of choice.
Frog lube defenders- Sure it lubricates just fine. Sure it lowered the temp of your barrel, which means less friction. You missed something. It’s a BIO based, plant based lubricant, that is marketed as bio based and biodegradable. It literally biodegrades in your gun, over time, and glues it together.
If you clean and lubricate your gun with new frog lube every month or three, you’ll never see a problem. If you stick your gun in the safe and pull it out 3 years later, it will be glued shut.
Frog lube is garbage. Every police agency in my neck of the woods has banned its use. Most police guns are shot once per year at annual qualifications and too many guns were glued shut.
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