Kestas
Staff member
T, that's one of the best pieces of advice I've heard today.
dry starts after oil change
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Kestas
Staff member
I just changed the oil on my car last night. I tried cranking with the accelerator pedal all the way down..... the engine immediately revved to 4000 rpm!!!
I guess my engine doesn't have that feature.
Car kept for 150,000 miles with 3k mile OCI's = only 50 "dry starts" in it's lifetime. (5k OCI = 30) (7.5k = 20)
- oil change takes less than 1 hour so things aren't bone dry in there.
- just poured 5 qts of oil over (at least half) of the valve train when refilling.
- synthetics are supposed to be bonding to the metals anyway. (if any of what I've read in BITOG is sinking in correctly.)
- I dig out my new oil & filter & check/fill other fluids while I'm waiting for old oil to drain so I'm using my time. (trust me, no risk of being out of filters or oil)
In my above vertical application, I have enough oil dripping everywhere as I remove the old filter. Don't see myself adding to that by pre-soaking my filter overnight & dumping that too.
In my horizontal application... ok you got me. I am now a horizontal "prefiller". Darn BITOG. My sickness is getting worse.
- oil change takes less than 1 hour so things aren't bone dry in there.
- just poured 5 qts of oil over (at least half) of the valve train when refilling.
- synthetics are supposed to be bonding to the metals anyway. (if any of what I've read in BITOG is sinking in correctly.)
- I dig out my new oil & filter & check/fill other fluids while I'm waiting for old oil to drain so I'm using my time. (trust me, no risk of being out of filters or oil)
In my above vertical application, I have enough oil dripping everywhere as I remove the old filter. Don't see myself adding to that by pre-soaking my filter overnight & dumping that too.
In my horizontal application... ok you got me. I am now a horizontal "prefiller". Darn BITOG. My sickness is getting worse.
>>>> I just changed the oil on my car last night. I tried cranking with the accelerator pedal all the way down..... the engine immediately revved to 4000 rpm!!!
Now, THERE'S your perfect cold start. No pampering here. It's really impressive to go from a stopped engine to an explosive 4K rpm in a fraction of a second. That'll learn ya to trust people on this board.
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
Now, THERE'S your perfect cold start. No pampering here. It's really impressive to go from a stopped engine to an explosive 4K rpm in a fraction of a second. That'll learn ya to trust people on this board.
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
I always thought that even a momentary interruption of engine lubrication spelled instant disaster. Then I heard about teflon additives that would enable an engine to run for 30 minutes with a dry crankcase. Then I heard that the teflon test was misleading in that other similar engines were run for 30 minutes with dry crankcases without the teflon treatment. Then I visited an antique engine museum where I saw an old exposed piston engine receive its lubrication from a drip oiler that dropped 2 drops per minute onto the piston skirt while the engine was running (less than 250 rpm). Then I noticed that the drip oiler had run out of oil, and the guy who owned the antique engine didn't seem too worried about it. Harrumph!!!
Welp, I'm still obsessive about engine oil (as is everyone else on this board), but I've come to a couple (not so) new conclusions.
1. Lubrication needs/importance rise sharply with increased rpms.
2. Sufficient residual oil film remains on moving parts that a momentary interruption of oil flow at a no-load idle will have no affect on engine wear.
3. Priming a new filter can't hurt, but it's of little or no consequence as long as you don't rev your engine the second it starts (should never do this under any circumstances anyway).
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
Welp, I'm still obsessive about engine oil (as is everyone else on this board), but I've come to a couple (not so) new conclusions.
1. Lubrication needs/importance rise sharply with increased rpms.
2. Sufficient residual oil film remains on moving parts that a momentary interruption of oil flow at a no-load idle will have no affect on engine wear.
3. Priming a new filter can't hurt, but it's of little or no consequence as long as you don't rev your engine the second it starts (should never do this under any circumstances anyway).
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
Exactly,
No one said EVERY vehicle has this feature. Let's roll back to what I said...
I'm sorry your's doesn't work this way. Did you check this out in your owners manual before trying this out, or did you just experiment?
T
No one said EVERY vehicle has this feature. Let's roll back to what I said...
Nope, not any hint of an absolute.
I'm sorry your's doesn't work this way. Did you check this out in your owners manual before trying this out, or did you just experiment?
T
I know on my ol tempo that thing has this odd short or something where it won't start up just by turning the key. What I have to do sometimes is hold the key into the start and push the throttle pedal down ... this then fires up that ol car ... dun know if that some odd short or just some odd thing but the car got where when driving at 80mph (i ran the living crazed out of that car when i used it) it would just shut down ... then I would have to start it again and continue ... ODD car that ol thing was and I still have it now. I use it for a gocart in the fileds lmao.
--Idoxash--
--Idoxash--
I drain my oil a long time since it's usually pretty old and I'm known to switch brands once in a while. I also dry crank it. Yes, DRY CRANK IT! It shoots out a big beltch of dirty oil from the pump. The lifters drain too. I get a bit of chatter on restart, so what? Extra clean and clear oil is worth a sec of chatter. Pulling the center electrode from the dist makes dry crank totally painless. Upon refill, I crank it w/o spark and then I'm good to go.
Anyone know a technique to prefill the filter on a 6 cylinder BMW m50 engine. The paper filter sets in a "container" near the top of the engine that seems to drain all the oil out when the top is removed. The car is a 1995 BMW 525i with 117,000 miles. I do not especially notice any noise/clatter when I first start the engine after a oil/filter change. Pressure is there in about 3 seconds. Also, I think the new oil is pour directly over a plate that disperses it over the cam and valve mechanisms.
qoute:
On two of my vehicles, the filter goes on horizontally and pre-filling it is impossible, and the oil pressure comes up pretty fast.
Might sound stupid but try pre-filling it and sticking it in the freezer (slow the flow). Let it thaw before starting of course. And maybe use a blow dryer to speed up the process. NOW THAT'S BEING ANAL!
On two of my vehicles, the filter goes on horizontally and pre-filling it is impossible, and the oil pressure comes up pretty fast.
Might sound stupid but try pre-filling it and sticking it in the freezer (slow the flow). Let it thaw before starting of course. And maybe use a blow dryer to speed up the process. NOW THAT'S BEING ANAL!
Quote:
Pulling the center electrode to crank the engine without starting it, is a recipe for a toasted coil.
Why is that? Open circuit simply means 12V potential in, nothing out. In fact coils are open circuit most of the time (until time for a high voltage spark).
Pulling the center electrode to crank the engine without starting it, is a recipe for a toasted coil.
Why is that? Open circuit simply means 12V potential in, nothing out. In fact coils are open circuit most of the time (until time for a high voltage spark).
the only time that i've pre-filled the oil filter is on diesel's mostly or any other vehicle turbo-equipped, just to prevent damage to the turbocharger on startup
As in Russell's BMW, the filter on my '97 MB C230 is near the top of the engine, and sits in a canister. I've actually added a little oil to the canister during an oil change, and it drains almost immediately into the engine. Oh, well.
The dry crank method is also something I used on my previous MB. My regular mechanic advised me to disconnect the coil-to-distributor wire, crank until the oil pressure needle began to come up, then reconnect and fire up. I can't do this on the C230; it has no distributor!
I think the above posters are right: A certain amount of oil will still be in there when you crank.
-- Paul W.
The dry crank method is also something I used on my previous MB. My regular mechanic advised me to disconnect the coil-to-distributor wire, crank until the oil pressure needle began to come up, then reconnect and fire up. I can't do this on the C230; it has no distributor!
I think the above posters are right: A certain amount of oil will still be in there when you crank.
-- Paul W.
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