Drain/refill vs diy flush?

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What's comical about the aggressive pushers here is how many have done something else that has been successful and just so you think you imagined the whole thing … here comes all these reasons you should have done it my way.

In other words make it sound like doing nothing is what to do if you can't do it my way.
 
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by grampi
When I bought my '04 Corolla it had 148K miles and I had no idea if the tranny fluid had ever been changed.


What color was the fluid when you bought it and which atf do you use in it? Thanks!


It was more of a brown than pink, and I use Super Tech ATF...
 
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I feel bad for you as you are unaware you can not provide anything but a quote no data nothing it must be hard to live life without a clue.


You realize that you are talking about yourself, right?
 
Originally Posted by DejaVue
Originally Posted by supton

Sonnax's story about new fluid getting just as dirty as old is interesting. Sounds like, on a really neglected transmission, multiple flushes might be needed to truly clean it up. [Of course, just how clean does it need to be? different question altogether.]

It kind of looks like DoubleWasp and some others are arguing with each other about different things.
Or perhaps just partially irrelevant things.
Or just imo a main point is being lost in the process.

DoubleWasp says D+F is no better (and probably worse?) than a full flush.
He quoted Greg from Sonnax as evidence.

Greg from Sonnax said on a 100,000 mile vehicle with the original trans fluid, replacing that fluid with 90% new fluid caused particulates to increase soon after.
Greg from Sonnax recommends on a neglected vehicle to change the trans fluid by any method multiple times.
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
D&F is only better in people's beliefs. Sonnax studied this extensively and found that even with a D&F, contaminant levels rise hilariously above even pre-change levels shortly after doing a D&F.

Doing a D&F over a flush is good for the spirit, but nothing else.

Cliff's Notes: D+F is not doing anything differently

If it exists, I missed seeing direct evidence showing whether a D+F or full flush increases more particulates than the other.
I would expect particulates to rise on a neglected transmission soon after doing a D+F.
Logic tells me replacing 30% of the fluid will free up fewer particulates and at a slower rate than replacing 100% of the fluid would.

But that's the partially irrelevant part.
Because if the person is trying to catch up on maintenance for their neglected transmission, then both D+F and a full flush should be repeated again fairly soon anyway, since both methods are increasing particulates.

In general, I'd say what Greg from Sonnax said actually favors the typical D+F method since people who do D+F on a neglected transmission tend to do it multiple times in a short timeframe. (Arguably too short if done again in less than 100 miles.) Most people who do a full flush apparently tend do it once and call it good since they replaced all of the old fluid with new fluid.

So, if done multiple times, D+F is probably better than a full flush done once. A full flush done multiple times is probably better than D+F done multiple times. The usual argument can be made that D+F causes less particulates shock to the transmission since 30% new fluid logically doesn't clean as fast as 100% new fluid. But, in either case, the main thing is that particulates freed up by a D+F or by a full flush need to be drained out again anyway in the not too distant future on a neglected transmission. I just thought that point was being lost.



Only point ever was that D+F is not in any way "safer".

I think some people took that to mean that I was lighting my Tiki torches and painting "Heck No D+F!!!!" protest signs in goat's blood.

I do D+F myself. Some of my stuff is just a pain to do anything more than that. I'm just not sitting here telling myself I've taken a "safer" route.

No doubt a neglected trans needs multiple flushes regardless. When possible, I'd rather dump all fluid and dump all contamination than take a soft approach. I'd even prefer a filter to keep the bulk of those contaminants from ever staying in circulation. But that's just me.
 
Originally Posted by grampi
When I bought my '04 Corolla it had 148K miles and I had no idea if the tranny fluid had ever been changed. Because of this, I decided to do drains and fills every oil change (the first time I dropped the pan and changed the filter). I did this every oil change for about 3 times, then I went to every other oil change for about another 3 times, and now I do a drain and fill every 24K miles. The reason I decided to do this was solely because I had no idea of the condition of the fluid that was in it when I bought it, and I had no idea if the fluid had ever been changed. I didn't want to do a flush and have sludge dislodged and then end up somewhere else in the tranny causing problems. The car now has 375K miles and is still on the original tranny, so I guess this method works...

thumbsup2.gif
I think that's a great way to deal with a transmission with an unknown service history.
 
I did not read the report … but if I buy a vehicle new (two will go on this plan) … and start the process to D/F on a regular basis (why I install drain plugs) … where did this Sahara desert in my ATF rise from ?
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
I did not read the report … but if I buy a vehicle new (two will go on this plan) … and start the process to D/F on a regular basis (why I install drain plugs) … where did this Sahara desert in my ATF rise from ?

How often would you plan on doing a D&F?
 
I normally do them in the spring … so around 15k I'm changing 30% of the system for $20 at little added time during an oil change … This is after doing the initial pan drop (25k-30k) to clean break in metal from magnets, install the drain plug, and change that filter …
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
I normally do them in the spring … so around 15k I'm changing 30% of the system for $20 at little added time during an oil change … This is after doing the initial pan drop (25k-30k) to clean break in metal from magnets, install the drain plug, and change that filter …


Thanks!
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
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I feel bad for you as you are unaware you can not provide anything but a quote no data nothing it must be hard to live life without a clue.


You realize that you are talking about yourself, right?


Nope I provided UOA you provided a quote from a transmission shop owner. You are unable to discern the difference. That is sad.
 
Originally Posted by Back40
Why would replacing 1/2 the ATF be preferable over a low pressure flush? .


Back to the original post.......
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The factory put a drain plug and a fill port on my engine … same with the transfer case and both differentials.
They put a pan on the transmission … And a fill tube under the hood …

What engineered provisions did the OEM give me to displace the transmission system of ATF … ?
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Quote



I feel bad for you as you are unaware you can not provide anything but a quote no data nothing it must be hard to live life without a clue.


You realize that you are talking about yourself, right?


Nope I provided UOA you provided a quote from a transmission shop owner. You are unable to discern the difference. That is sad.


You're still talking about yourself.

You provided a UOA with no particle count to measure any contamination level.

You provided a UOA that is not of a neglected transmission as referenced by either the OP or the article I posted.

You keep ignoring that the article was written by a high level person of one of the most recognized transmission parts engineering and manufacturing houses.

I recognize the difference. You continue to intentionally live in ignorance because you are wrong and don't want to admit you have an empty holster.

The ad-hominem is not bringing me any closer to refraining from providing solid technical reasons why you are 100% wrong and have no relevant data to provide.

Your complete and total failure to engage in any sort of technical discussion about the UOA you posted is proof positive that your argument is a lame dog with no teeth and fleas.

But please, make yet another post about your UOA, lacking any and all relevant technical data.
 
Unable to read UOA's? The containments are decreased upon each successive drain and fill the less insolubles and wear metals show this. You know what insolubles and wear metals are? Containments.
 
Dave, the UOA data you present is easy to interpret. As the last post in your linked thread shows, at 7 drain and fills you have replaced about 97% of the original fluid, 1/2 quantity per change, starting from new. After accounting for break-in contamination, of course the levels are going to drop a tiny bit with each successive change, assuming that the wear rate of the tranny is constant. At some point it should stabilize for numerous change intervals and then I would think it might start increasing as the the transmission wears out and starts producing more wear contaminants.

How does your data relate to the OP's question of which method is better on a neglected transmission with it's very first change at 90k - 100k miles?
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Dave, the UOA data you present is easy to interpret. As the last post in your linked thread shows, at 7 drain and fills you have replaced about 97% of the original fluid, 1/2 quantity per change, starting from new. After accounting for break-in contamination, of course the levels are going to drop a tiny bit with each successive change, assuming that the wear rate of the tranny is constant. At some point it should stabilize for numerous change intervals and then I would think it might start increasing as the the transmission wears out and starts producing more wear contaminants.

How does your data relate to the OP's question of which method is better on a neglected transmission with it's very first change at 90k - 100k miles?



Simple flush or drain and fill. It's better to do either rather then do nothing.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
The factory put a drain plug and a fill port on my engine … same with the transfer case and both differentials.
They put a pan on the transmission … And a fill tube under the hood …

What engineered provisions did the OEM give me to displace the transmission system of ATF … ?


They gave you the dealership, with a flush machine, at a very high price.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251



Simple flush or drain and fill. It's better to do either rather then do nothing.


I completely agree. Remember the old wives tale? People actually used to say, "if it's got that many miles, it's better to leave it alone". I never bought into that. Would they say that about any other automotive fluid? Try doing nothing with your engine.
 
Agreed. We flushed lots of high mileage transmissions at the dealerships I worked at and I can't recall any "coming back" shortly after with issues. I'm sure it's happened, but more likely when someone already had shifting or slipping issues and tried the fluid change to see if it would fix it.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Unable to read UOA's? The containments are decreased upon each successive drain and fill the less insolubles and wear metals show this. You know what insolubles and wear metals are? Containments.


Yes. Unable to read UOAs.

You and I both know that a sample with low insolubles can still have a ridiculously high particle count. I've had a few of them myself. Some that matched insolubles count on another UOA while having 5-10 times the particle count.

This is the very reason why particle count is a thing, and analysts don't just look at the insolubles and just throw away the particle count test entirely.

This is why you keep beating around the bush about particle count. It's not there, and makes your argument weaker.

But not nearly as weak as the fact that the sample is not of a neglected transmission and therefore irrelevant to anything I posted.
 
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