pros and cons please? copper/aluminum/crush type/nylon?
Drain Plug Gaskets
- Thread starter byez
- Start date
- Status
What make/model vehicle? It varies depending on the plug type.
just a dilitante with 40+ years of mostly DIY. I have seen
all work fine. I am a fan, without much justification, of
copper/aluminum crush washers.
all work fine. I am a fan, without much justification, of
copper/aluminum crush washers.
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,798
Nylon isn't molten until around 500F. It's not even soft @ 230F+ Nylon timing gears wear out due to contact wear ..not melting.
Max Cont Use Temp 150 - 185oC
http://www.bpf.co.uk/bpfindustry/plastics_materials_Nylons_PA.cfm
Max Cont Use Temp 150 - 185oC
http://www.bpf.co.uk/bpfindustry/plastics_materials_Nylons_PA.cfm
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
That probably wasn't nylon.....so what was the polymer?
I used the same a blackish unknown composite/polymer plug gasket for 17+ years on my old Toyota p.u. - admittedly sometimes I only changed the oil every 2 years, but that sucker worked fine. I bought it at Shuck's as I recall.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
That probably wasn't nylon.....so what was the polymer?
I used the same a blackish unknown composite/polymer plug gasket for 17+ years on my old Toyota p.u. - admittedly sometimes I only changed the oil every 2 years, but that sucker worked fine. I bought it at Shuck's as I recall.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
That probably wasn't nylon.....so what was the polymer?
I used the same a blackish unknown composite/polymer plug gasket for 17+ years on my old Toyota p.u. - admittedly sometimes I only changed the oil every 2 years, but that sucker worked fine. I bought it at Shuck's as I recall.
I'm not at home, but I think the roll said something along the lines of "high temperature gasket material." It definitely wasn't "high temperature" if it melted and stuck to the drain pan when I remove the drain plug.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Agreed, nylon can easily crack if overtightened.
Not only that, my experience with Nylon is that it will melt and "super glue" itself to the drain pan.
That probably wasn't nylon.....so what was the polymer?
I used the same a blackish unknown composite/polymer plug gasket for 17+ years on my old Toyota p.u. - admittedly sometimes I only changed the oil every 2 years, but that sucker worked fine. I bought it at Shuck's as I recall.
I'm not at home, but I think the roll said something along the lines of "high temperature gasket material." It definitely wasn't "high temperature" if it melted and stuck to the drain pan when I remove the drain plug.
I prefer crush washers if you can find the correct size.
Originally Posted By: byez
pros and cons please? copper/aluminum/crush type/nylon?
Generally to be on the safe side, use whatever was OEM:
http://www.cgenterprises.com/gaskets.htm
However, if there is such a thing as a generic, it's nylon.
In most applications it will provide a seal without excessive torque, maintain a seal, and in a pinch be reused.
pros and cons please? copper/aluminum/crush type/nylon?
Generally to be on the safe side, use whatever was OEM:
http://www.cgenterprises.com/gaskets.htm
However, if there is such a thing as a generic, it's nylon.
In most applications it will provide a seal without excessive torque, maintain a seal, and in a pinch be reused.
Is this a crush washer? It does not crush, only indents.
Originally Posted By: Jonny Z
Is this a crush washer? It does not crush, only indents.
It appears to be a fiber washer.
Crush washers are metallic and typically literally "crush" when they are tightened.
Is this a crush washer? It does not crush, only indents.
It appears to be a fiber washer.
Crush washers are metallic and typically literally "crush" when they are tightened.
Looks metallic, kind of like what I'm used to seeing in the aluminum style. The key in my opinion is to not over tighten. If you've got either the metal or nylon, you should be fine as long as you torque to spec. I'm a real believer in checking the book and using a torque wrench if you don't have the feel for a particular bolt or nut yet. Case in point is wheel lugs. The torque can vary by as much as 70 foot pounds from vehicle to vehicle.
Steve
Steve
FZ1
Thanks for the compliment. Mostly it's all about maintenance. Your engine has more than just oil that needs changing. Remember the rest, and do the oil changes on schedule. I like synthetic and have been using it for about the last 280k. FWIW I became a Amsoil dealer after studying oils. Mainly BITOG and to a lesser extent some other web sites convinced me that I needed to adopt synthetic and further, Amsoil has the best quality. Don't forget that the engine is also a 351 Windsor (5.8 liter), which I was told is the best design for the small block.
What's kind of got me surprised is the transmission. I really haven't done that much to it except change the fluid.
Steve
Thanks for the compliment. Mostly it's all about maintenance. Your engine has more than just oil that needs changing. Remember the rest, and do the oil changes on schedule. I like synthetic and have been using it for about the last 280k. FWIW I became a Amsoil dealer after studying oils. Mainly BITOG and to a lesser extent some other web sites convinced me that I needed to adopt synthetic and further, Amsoil has the best quality. Don't forget that the engine is also a 351 Windsor (5.8 liter), which I was told is the best design for the small block.
What's kind of got me surprised is the transmission. I really haven't done that much to it except change the fluid.
Steve
Just go to rockauto and buy 100 for like $12 and use it every oil change. It is a cheap insurance and should last you a lifetime. (3M miles if you have 3k OCI).
- Status
