Door vapor barrier won't stay stuck

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Feb 6, 2017
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Greetings! I have what I assume is a unique problem, as I can't find much in the way of solutions from searching various automotive forums. I know we have some very particular car owners on here, so I figured if anybody knows the answer, they're probably on here.

My family owns several Toyotas, and I've run into this issue on several of them. Eventually, you need to get inside the door to replace a window motor, and no matter how hard I try, I can't get the vapor barrier to stay stuck. This leads to water leaking inside the cabin. Rainwater runs down a wire harness, or hits the door check, making its way to the vapor barrier. As it doesn't have a good seal, it leaks inside the car as opposed to draining down to the bottom of the door.

Toyota uses a clear poly sheet for a vapor barrier, adhered to the door with butyl rubber. When it started leaking, I figured it came unstuck as the factory plastic sheet was dirty, so I replaced it with some new poly sheet and new 3M butyl. This worked great, for a time. A year or two later, we have another leak. I figured my generic poly sheeting wasn't the right stuff. I got a new vapor barrier from the dealer, and installed that with new 3M butyl. I made sure it was firmly pressed all around with a roller, with no bubbles or wrinkles. Again, it lasted a year or two before leaking again.

The butyl stays firmly adhered to the door metal. However, over time, the poly sheet looses its ability to stick to the butyl. Factory-installed vapor barriers continue to stick indefinitely if undisturbed. I find that any barrier I've replaced only stays stuck a year or two at most. Does anybody know the trick for getting the vapor barrier plastic sheeting to remain firmly stuck to the butyl, like it is from the factory?

IMG_5367.webp
 
I'm curious about the path this water takes from your window channel to the car's interior. Do you drive through hurricanes all the time? I have had some half-baked, half-patched vapor barriers in various beaters over my days and never gotten water intrusion. I patch them with duct tape and other non-water proof methods. I figure if the part were that important they wouldn't spend only twenty cents on plastic and goo, but then what do I know?
 
Greetings! I have what I assume is a unique problem, as I can't find much in the way of solutions from searching various automotive forums. I know we have some very particular car owners on here, so I figured if anybody knows the answer, they're probably on here.

My family owns several Toyotas, and I've run into this issue on several of them. Eventually, you need to get inside the door to replace a window motor, and no matter how hard I try, I can't get the vapor barrier to stay stuck. This leads to water leaking inside the cabin. Rainwater runs down a wire harness, or hits the door check, making its way to the vapor barrier. As it doesn't have a good seal, it leaks inside the car as opposed to draining down to the bottom of the door.

Toyota uses a clear poly sheet for a vapor barrier, adhered to the door with butyl rubber. When it started leaking, I figured it came unstuck as the factory plastic sheet was dirty, so I replaced it with some new poly sheet and new 3M butyl. This worked great, for a time. A year or two later, we have another leak. I figured my generic poly sheeting wasn't the right stuff. I got a new vapor barrier from the dealer, and installed that with new 3M butyl. I made sure it was firmly pressed all around with a roller, with no bubbles or wrinkles. Again, it lasted a year or two before leaking again.

The butyl stays firmly adhered to the door metal. However, over time, the poly sheet looses its ability to stick to the butyl. Factory-installed vapor barriers continue to stick indefinitely if undisturbed. I find that any barrier I've replaced only stays stuck a year or two at most. Does anybody know the trick for getting the vapor barrier plastic sheeting to remain firmly stuck to the butyl, like it is from the factory?

View attachment 236687
Buy fresh butyl tape?
 
I'm curious about the path this water takes from your window channel to the car's interior. Do you drive through hurricanes all the time? I have had some half-baked, half-patched vapor barriers in various beaters over my days and never gotten water intrusion. I patch them with duct tape and other non-water proof methods. I figure if the part were that important they wouldn't spend only twenty cents on plastic and goo, but then what do I know?
Agreed. The OEMs make this practically unserviceable-- at least to return to factory condition. I doubt any indy and maybe 1% of dealer techs try.

I slap it back up as best I can and am not opposed to using duct tape or whatever. I've always wondered if Mastik would work.

What more can you do, practically speaking? If every pw regulator or pdl solenoid quote included new OEM, pre-cut sheeting and adhesive, each job would increase by $200‐300 parts and labor (at least).

I always figured it was 99% for dust intrusion and perhaps a hint of NVH reduction.
 
Several years ago I bought some black windshield sealer at NAPA. It's in a fair size tube, and probably is enough to do about 2 or doors, maybe a little more. It's been a while since I bought it, and it might dry more than the original stuff, but I think it would work, if they still carry it.
 
Toyota uses a clear poly sheet for a vapor barrier, adhered to the door with butyl rubber. When it started leaking, I figured it came unstuck as the factory plastic sheet was dirty, so I replaced it with some new poly sheet and new 3M butyl. This worked great, for a time. A year or two later, we have another leak. I figured my generic poly sheeting wasn't the right stuff. I got a new vapor barrier from the dealer, and installed that with new 3M butyl. I made sure it was firmly pressed all around with a roller, with no bubbles or wrinkles. Again, it lasted a year or two before leaking again.

The butyl stays firmly adhered to the door metal. However, over time, the poly sheet looses its ability to stick to the butyl. Factory-installed vapor barriers continue to stick indefinitely if undisturbed.

Link to actual 3M product used please!
 
The butyl stays firmly adhered to the door metal. However, over time, the poly sheet looses its ability to stick to the butyl. Factory-installed vapor barriers continue to stick indefinitely if undisturbed. I find that any barrier I've replaced only stays stuck a year or two at most. Does anybody know the trick for getting the vapor barrier plastic sheeting to remain firmly stuck to the butyl, like it is from the factory?

I've had success heating up the butyl tape while reinstalling vapor barriers. It's far more tacky when hot
 
I found a TSB from Subaru, which mentions using 3M Windo-Weld ribbon sealer on the vapor shield.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10201021-0001.pdf

Which is exactly what I've been using. It works for a while, but I don't find it to be a long-lasting repair. Yet the stuff put on at the factory sticks forever, unless it's disturbed. So either they're using different material from the factory, or how they apply it is different.

I will have to try using some heat the next time around. It's almost like there needs to be some sort of adhesion promoter or primer between the plastic sheeting and the butyl, but I'm not seeing anything specific listed anywhere for this application.
 
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Two things I've had success with while making similar repairs.

1. Use gaffer tape to reinforce the stuck-down edges. Glue the membrane down as described then go around the edge w gaffer tape. Use the good stuff; it's expensive, waterproof, and durable.

2. Add a deflector flap in the inside of the membrane. Like a doubled shower curtain, this flap should hang *inside* the door cavity ensuring that any water runs down the membrane gets dumped inside the door to drain vs inside the cabin to mold your carpet. I've adhered the flap with mastic or gaff tape; both seem to work.
 
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