Does synthetic protect better than dino

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Because everyone re-labeled their Group II oils as Synthetic Blend. There are no rules, adding even 1% of Group III (that's not a true synthetic IMO) lets them put that label on.
No way...

Anyone that posts that Group III base stocks are "slightly processed oils" does not know what they are talking about.
I bet the formulators, chemical engineers, and other scientists who regularly visit this forum have plenty of entertainment or at least roll their eyes every so often. FWIW, even groups I and II are not really unprocessed mineral oil. I would call EHC45, EHC65 (etc...), and VISOM highly processed and clean base oils. So is GTL, for that matter. "Synthetic Elitism" is terrible, and it must be pure torture for those who obsess about what's "synthetic" and what's "dino" motor oil, lol.
 
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Apparently Super Tech dino is no longer available. At least I couldn't find any yesterday when I bought oil. All they have now is full syn and the blend. The good news is the blend is only like 30 cents more a qt than the dino was...
 
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Apparently Super Tech dino is no longer available. At least I couldn't find any yesterday when I bought oil. All they have now is full syn and the blend. The good news is the blend is only like 30 cents more a qt than the dino was...
The dino is now "all millage
 
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Ive been searching and searching, i can't find PROOF that in a normal combustion engine, that synthetic oils like amsoil protects any better than dino.
i'm a normal usage. not exteded run times or extream temps.
Time is the primary component of "protection". So all else being equal a "synthetic" will not suffer from the same level of degradation in performance over time vs conventional dino of the same weight and HTHS.

I could run probably dino in my BMW on a 2k-3k mile OCI but no way it could go 10k miles. I'd just be changing the oil out a 3x the frequency with no benefit to engine life.
 
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I'm sure those who say they can't find anything that states syn protects better than dinos have heard that 90% or more of engine wear occurs during start-up when all of the oil is in the sump. Synthetics flow better/faster to the upper parts of the engine, therefore the engine wears less...it's not really rocket science...
 
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There was no such thing. You maybe are thinking of something else? Don't know, but please keep it factual.
Late 1980's into early 1990's Amsoil promoted a Lifetime Oil Change program with a specific non-detergent Amsoil oil and matching $25 oil filter. One was to change the filter every year and add a new quart of oil "to replenish the additives."

Customers were delighted with their beautiful honey-colored oil right up to the moment the engine seized.

Fact. I sat through a sales pitch. Didn't buy, but friends did. Why would I use a $25 filter every year when 5 quarts of Mobil-1 was only $17.88 at Walmart?
 
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Late 1980's into early 1990's Amsoil promoted a Lifetime Oil Change program with a specific non-detergent Amsoil oil and matching $25 oil filter. One was to change the filter every year and add a new quart of oil "to replenish the additives."

Customers were delighted with their beautiful honey-colored oil right up to the moment the engine seized.

Fact. I sat through a sales pitch. Didn't buy, but friends did. Why would I use a $25 filter every year when 5 quarts of Mobil-1 was only $17.88 at Walmart?
I'm calling BS/false memory. Do you even have proof?

Amsoil regular oil filters were never $25.

Maybe you went to a dealer's presentation, and he was selling by-pass systems(?) and his made up program. But this was just not something Amsoil did. Non-detergent? No.

And in the 1970's-80's Mobil1 was not inexpensive.
 
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I like the idea that there is not really a long term testing, saves a lot of debates on if they apply to majority of us or more probably not, to definitively conclude the top tier non synthetic motor oil for most applications and even extreme use like performance racing are that much better overall? Having sold motor oils since the 70's and professionally raced and built performance engine both Drag Racing as well Road track , motorcycle (off road and road track) and boat for decades I can confidently say not one engine , carbureted , supercharged , Turbocharged ,using exotic fuels, i.e. Nitromethane, Alcohol 100+ octane Racing gas, Aviation fuels , Propane and engines Nitrous injected, ever failed because of using none synthetic motor oils. I am very familiar with failure of engine bearings (flash death) and have it happen a few times in Drag Racing because of oil pump failure and even the best synthetic motor oil would not have saved the engine shifting a Chevy 8 banger at 9000RPMs.
To save arguments on my response let me say because synthetic motor oil is now so readily available and at good pricing I seldom if ever use none synthetic motor oil anymore in anything except maybe a compressor pump that has no filter system and requiring none detergent motor oils?
 
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4WD

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There is no disclosure from the manufacturers where they're using GrpII+ EHC but one odds-on favorite may be Havoline High Mileage "Synthetic Technology" motor oil. Just my opinion based on their curious wording.
Havoline ? Probably using the CVX version …
XOM sells EHC to Warren and I always figured 20% of the store brand “synthetic “ is Grp2+
To the point the next Dexos specs will regulate this …
 
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I don't know that it really matters; a normal car, driven normally will last for a LONG time and a LOT of miles. If you're going to see any difference between synthetic and conventional, you're going to see it on the margins- really high RPMs, extreme miles on engine or OCI, extreme conditions of hot or cold (like busted radiator or N. Dakota winter), and so on.

Under normal use and conditions, I doubt you'll see any real difference in a normally driven car. Whether or not that cushion that you get from running synthetic is worth it to you is a question I can't answer. For my old beater pickup, I can confidently say that I'm not interested in spending considerably more for synthetic anymore.
 
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Remember when it was recommended by some people not to use synthetic oil in a new engine for so-many thousands of miles?

It was thought by some people that synthetic oil was “too slick” to allow for proper wearing-in and mating of parts 🙄

I don’t remember if any OEMs actually made that recommendation, but it was an oft-perpetuated myth, even on this forum.

I remember thinking about it when I hit the 3000 mile mark on my then-new 2007 Tacoma, and deciding it was nonsense, and pouring Mobil 1 5W-30 into the crankcase. And that’s all it’s ever had, since. And, even at 239,000+ miles, I guess it’s worked, since it uses no oil, even now, over 10K OCIs.

Some people probably still think you shouldn’t use synthetic for a while in a new engine.
 
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I've heard many stories about people replacing all their fluids with synthetic (engine oil, differential, gearbox, Xfer case, etc) and seeing a notable increase in fuel economy. I know that doesn't directly mean reduced wear, but it does mean reduced friction/drag... does this equal reduced wear? The reduced fluid friction / fluid resistance of synthetics may be messing with the point I am trying to make here. Hopefully someone understands LOL.
 
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I'm sure those who say they can't find anything that states syn protects better than dinos have heard that 90% or more of engine wear occurs during start-up when all of the oil is in the sump. Synthetics flow better/faster to the upper parts of the engine, therefore the engine wears less...it's not really rocket science...
Most wear occurs at warm-up and a 5w30 Syn vs a 5w30 Blend (they're all "blends" now) are equally viscous unless we're talking extreme cold temps.
 
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