As the title suggests I want to find a way to prevent oxidation of my aluminum rims. Would painting the brake hubs and/or contact point of the rims, slow down or prevent oxidation of the aluminum rims or would it just wear off from the contact between the two surfaces? I take off these tires in the winter so they don't get any road salt.
Does Painting Brake Hubs Prevent Oxidation
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You can wipe a fine film of high temp wheel bearing grease on the inside of the aluminum wheel where it touches the brake rotor with a rag, and put a small amount of it around the hub so it doesn't freeze on.
Don't put too much, it will last a long time. We do this in the rust belt to keep rims from rusting or freezing onto the hub. Some people prefer anti seize, but it is pricey. When I mean a small amount, I mean it should just leave a film behind like lubing a firearm. The hub you can have a faint smear of it as it comes more directly in contact with the weather.
Never put any anti seize or wheel bearing grease on your studs or lug nuts. You don't want them coming loose.
Also, it changes the torque spec if you lube your lugs. You can stretch your studs, making them weaker. Use a wire brush to clean rust off of your studs is all you can really do.
Don't put too much, it will last a long time. We do this in the rust belt to keep rims from rusting or freezing onto the hub. Some people prefer anti seize, but it is pricey. When I mean a small amount, I mean it should just leave a film behind like lubing a firearm. The hub you can have a faint smear of it as it comes more directly in contact with the weather.
Never put any anti seize or wheel bearing grease on your studs or lug nuts. You don't want them coming loose.
Also, it changes the torque spec if you lube your lugs. You can stretch your studs, making them weaker. Use a wire brush to clean rust off of your studs is all you can really do.
Originally Posted By: Falken
You can wipe a fine film of high temp wheel bearing grease on the inside of the aluminum wheel where it touches the brake rotor with a rag, and put a small amount of it around the hub so it doesn't freeze on.
+1
My Mazda had coated original rotors and the aluminum rims were frozen to the hubs after first winter. Since then I've been putting a small amount of grease on the hubs and the rims never get stuck or have corrosion on them.
You can wipe a fine film of high temp wheel bearing grease on the inside of the aluminum wheel where it touches the brake rotor with a rag, and put a small amount of it around the hub so it doesn't freeze on.
+1
My Mazda had coated original rotors and the aluminum rims were frozen to the hubs after first winter. Since then I've been putting a small amount of grease on the hubs and the rims never get stuck or have corrosion on them.
I've NEVER once had a lugnut come lose or a wheel bearing come lose that was held in with anti-seize.
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years .
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years .
JHZR2
Staff member
I coat the rotor face where the wheel contacts with anti seize, though none ever gets on the lugs. A thin coating is good for about a year and then is a mess.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I've NEVER once had a lugnut come lose or a wheel bearing come lose that was held in with anti-seize.
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years .
I always use antiseize and derate the torque by 15%. Never broken a stud. Closed end lug nuts as used on alloys help, too. Leaning on a rusted lug nut with the breaker bar is far from good practice in MY book. Sure, they won't come off, they're RUSTED on..snap goes the stud. Watching some moron grind a nut on a rusty stud with a rattlegun, so that it SMOKES, just causes me to wonder what happens when the tire goes flat on the freeway and you try to remove the ground on nut with the weenie tool in the car tool "kit". Yeah, I know, call AAA and wait. I check my lug nut torque once and a while, if you torque them properly to begin with, they stay where they are set.
I've NEVER once had a lugnut come lose or a wheel bearing come lose that was held in with anti-seize.
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years .
I always use antiseize and derate the torque by 15%. Never broken a stud. Closed end lug nuts as used on alloys help, too. Leaning on a rusted lug nut with the breaker bar is far from good practice in MY book. Sure, they won't come off, they're RUSTED on..snap goes the stud. Watching some moron grind a nut on a rusty stud with a rattlegun, so that it SMOKES, just causes me to wonder what happens when the tire goes flat on the freeway and you try to remove the ground on nut with the weenie tool in the car tool "kit". Yeah, I know, call AAA and wait. I check my lug nut torque once and a while, if you torque them properly to begin with, they stay where they are set.
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Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years
Very true. It sucks when the first tool you go for for any under carriage work is the smoke wrench.
I don't know anything else, in Germany its the same so its a way of life for me.
It would be nice to just use normal hand tools for a change instead of grinders, cutoff wheels, BF hammers, breaker bars, taps and dies, drills and torches though.
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years
Very true. It sucks when the first tool you go for for any under carriage work is the smoke wrench.
I don't know anything else, in Germany its the same so its a way of life for me.
It would be nice to just use normal hand tools for a change instead of grinders, cutoff wheels, BF hammers, breaker bars, taps and dies, drills and torches though.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years
Very true. It sucks when the first tool you go for for any under carriage work is the smoke wrench.
I don't know anything else, in Germany its the same so its a way of life for me.
It would be nice to just use normal hand tools for a change instead of grinders, cutoff wheels, BF hammers, breaker bars, taps and dies, drills and torches though.
It'll be cool when I move out of the rust belt and don't have to worry about dealing with rusted bolts all the time.
Quote:
Here in the northeast, you almost NEED to anti-seize everything otherwise it won't come apart in 5 years
Very true. It sucks when the first tool you go for for any under carriage work is the smoke wrench.
I don't know anything else, in Germany its the same so its a way of life for me.
It would be nice to just use normal hand tools for a change instead of grinders, cutoff wheels, BF hammers, breaker bars, taps and dies, drills and torches though.
It'll be cool when I move out of the rust belt and don't have to worry about dealing with rusted bolts all the time.
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