Bryan, that weather out there..Does it cut into your Golf?
Does oil make a difference
- Thread starter Lonnie
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We have indoor driving ranges at a couple of locations. It's cold "outside" I have a swimming pool and sauna at the camp I spend half my life in.
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Bryan you dont by chance work for Halliburton? I have a first couson who works for them in the Gulf.
Nope.
Man, that's cold. I was searching one day and found this little bit of info from U of A at Fairbanks about motor oil temperature and engine wear:
http://tinyurl.com/yy7e7q
http://tinyurl.com/yy7e7q
It is not about wear rate differences between the new SM/GF4 oils v.s. PAO or higher synthetic! It is about deposit control long term.This is where synthetic pays for itself. Ester based fluids if used exclusively in an engine would negate the need to ever clean ring pack area at all!PAO based fluids will go a long way toeards slowing down any ring pack issue's.
I should say that I am impressed with most of the improvements that have happened in dino oil in the last 4 years! The performance of current dino oil is the best it has ever been!If I was not such a deposit nazi I would seriously consider useing them. For me nothing less then GIII will ever go in my Camry.
It gets gets that cold in Michigan from time to time but not all the time!!! I will say this the worst cold start I ever heard was my Dad starting his Tacoma with M1 15W50 in it at -20°F. Not only did it turn over very slowly the valvetrain was the sounded awful. It is still going strong though! Oh I almost forgott I rember telling my dad that I had a case of 5W30 and we could change the oil in my parking lot. He is now an over the road trucker and had been gone for over a week. We had an artic blast come through and cool things off sooner then normal that winter. He had been wanting to change his oil but got tied up driveing. The oil looked,felt and moved with all of the charteristcs of Black Strap Molasses!!
I tend to cheat my Conventional oil with LC to aid in preventing any potential deposit formation. I don't know if it would be an issue or not but like you with the Grp III or higher, I need my security crutch.
Yep...cold start wear. I'll say no more.
The 100k life cycle is the financial life cycle of the vehicle for many owners, not the mechanical life cycle for the vehicle. There are many owners that would always trade before or at 100k miles. With plugs and timing belts coolant and other maintenance items now going 100k miles or so, in ideal situations there is little to do for the owner. Keep the car in tires and brakes, wash it now and change the oil once or twice a year there is not much to do. Then trade it in on the next new thing with better air bags and more gadgets. Synthetic or conventional oil, cheap or expensive it makes no difference in good weather. This begs the question. What mileage target makes synthetic oil worth the trouble?
Synthetic oil is really more about saving time than anything else. How much is an hour of your time worth?
I dont know but I certainly am not willing to pay someone $20 to allow me to work 10 hours.
100,000 mi in my vehicle that holds 7.0 Qt.
Conventional Oil + Filter every 5000 mi.
$240.00 Oil + $80.00 Filters
$320.00 Total
Synthetic + Filter every 10000 mi.
$260.00 Oil + $40.00 Filters
$300.00 Total
I dont know but I certainly am not willing to pay someone $20 to allow me to work 10 hours.
100,000 mi in my vehicle that holds 7.0 Qt.
Conventional Oil + Filter every 5000 mi.
$240.00 Oil + $80.00 Filters
$320.00 Total
Synthetic + Filter every 10000 mi.
$260.00 Oil + $40.00 Filters
$300.00 Total
Question - What motor are you running?
Often different motors are rebuilt / resealed at fairly predictable 'mileage' intervals.
Even a 20 year old vehicle, if well maintained, driven regularly over the years will still have good seals and unclogged oil passages.
You're back to the 'financial life cycle' you mentioned, but this time it's not the vehicle, but the cost of the oil...
Ken
Gene ,I have to tease you ,what about the add oil? it Shouldn't take over 15 minutes to do a oil change and lube . The oils now days with the hydrocracked base oils are super good and for 5,000 mile oil change intervals unless required syns aren't needed,unless it is real cold and then it depends. I have torn down and or repaired lots of engines both gas and diesel over the years.I was a mechanic er ah a tech.... for 23 years with lots of classes at the jr.college that does the auto union apprentice and other auto tech classes . With the hydro treated oils the engines looked real good . I came to the realization that syns don't have the advantage they used to have over petro oils.I first used syn 2 stroke oil in my 69 Yamaha it was called Steen C or something close it worked great And in my 74 chev p/u so I have been there and done that.In the drive line .syns are the way to go cept if Delo esi is used. That is my 02 about syn oils for what ever it is worth.
I think so. Air cooled lawnmower engines are hard on oil. Mobil 1 15-50 (the previous generation stuff) has been fantastic in my water pumps and generators. Longer life, for sure!
2 stroke engines also benefit from the reduced ring sticking using synthetics, as do some diesels. Even a few gasoline engines that have sludge and ring sticking problems last longer on synthetics.
Turbo's last longer, with less coking problems on synthetics. As do the turbocharged engines.
Race cars engines perform better, and/or last longer with synthetics.
Does a Camry/Taurus/Malibu last longer? Probably not.
Chris
2 stroke engines also benefit from the reduced ring sticking using synthetics, as do some diesels. Even a few gasoline engines that have sludge and ring sticking problems last longer on synthetics.
Turbo's last longer, with less coking problems on synthetics. As do the turbocharged engines.
Race cars engines perform better, and/or last longer with synthetics.
Does a Camry/Taurus/Malibu last longer? Probably not.
Chris
In the past, yes it made a difference. My TR3 had to be rebuilt at 100,000 miles with 3000 mile changes on Castrol GTX. Rings where shot, Bearings where quite worn. This was in the 60-80 years. Toyota Cressida with 3000 mile changes on Castrol GTX. Rings where worn at 150,000. Engine still went to 260,000 before dying with a blown head gasket. It burned oil like crazy even after 2 auto-rx treatments. Had very little power. This was in the 88 -2000 years. Coult give you another example ie Mercedez Benz Diesel from same period with same oil. Rings where shot too early.
Currently I have two cars running on Mobil 1. One is approaching 170,000 miles. Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder that burns zero oil. Recently towed a uhaul trailer through the mountains and seem to have the same power as new. Mazda Miata at 90,000 with zero oil consumption and runs as new.
My take is the synthetic oil has made a big difference. Some will say Dino oil has improved since the mid 90's. Yes it has but it is still dino and I personally think it will not make a car last anywhere near what synthetic oil does. Also I am done with 3000 mile changes forever.
Does it make a difference now. You deceide.
Currently I have two cars running on Mobil 1. One is approaching 170,000 miles. Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder that burns zero oil. Recently towed a uhaul trailer through the mountains and seem to have the same power as new. Mazda Miata at 90,000 with zero oil consumption and runs as new.
My take is the synthetic oil has made a big difference. Some will say Dino oil has improved since the mid 90's. Yes it has but it is still dino and I personally think it will not make a car last anywhere near what synthetic oil does. Also I am done with 3000 mile changes forever.
Does it make a difference now. You deceide.
I used PP for $18 (5 gal - Walmart) + $8 for 2 Qt (Target).
I have also seen M1 for sale around the same price this week at WalMart .
Sam's has 6-Pack of Castrol Syntec for $24
Costco had a decent Synthetic on sale to but I am suffering from CRS Disease.
For Dino I used $8 for 5-Qt Jug from WalMart + $4 for 2 Qt's from dollar store.
Filters are $3.99 Motorcraft.
This vehicle is easy on oil so it might very well go 10000 mi on Scaeffers Synthetic Blend but I dont think you would get it any cheaper.
I have also seen M1 for sale around the same price this week at WalMart .
Sam's has 6-Pack of Castrol Syntec for $24
Costco had a decent Synthetic on sale to but I am suffering from CRS Disease.
For Dino I used $8 for 5-Qt Jug from WalMart + $4 for 2 Qt's from dollar store.
Filters are $3.99 Motorcraft.
This vehicle is easy on oil so it might very well go 10000 mi on Scaeffers Synthetic Blend but I dont think you would get it any cheaper.
Unless the gasoline engine has special oil requirements (i.e. synthetic oil), I think any 5W20 or 5W30 conventional oil with the orange can (or lowly equivalent) @ 7500 mi intervals will get any engine to 200k or more, provided the oil stays topped up between changes.
Heck, my 96 SL2 w/96k miles got 5w30 dino and cheapest filters every 7-10k miles with oil top-ups in between (1qt/2k miles) and there was only a light coating of varnish when I pulled off the valve cover earlier this month.
Heck, my 96 SL2 w/96k miles got 5w30 dino and cheapest filters every 7-10k miles with oil top-ups in between (1qt/2k miles) and there was only a light coating of varnish when I pulled off the valve cover earlier this month.
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