Does oil color really not mean anything?

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Scenario: 2009 Silverado 2500 6.0, 95k miles. Previous owner had long used PYB 5w30 from a quick change place at regular 3k-5k intervals (have receipts). They used it to tow camper. When I bought it 5k miles ago, put in Amsoil SS (old formula with high calcium) and Fram Ultra. As of today, the SS is coal black. I was planning to run this first change-over to OCI 8-10k. Is it black from good cleaning or something else? Shall I change it out early, or continue running jet black oil?
 
It is doing some cleaning. I'd change it early, I couldn't run an engine with 'coal black' oil in it. Dark is one thing, black?
 
As long as there is slight tinge of goldenish/amberish hue, it's serviceable. Blotter spot test would help you making better assessment on oil condition.
 
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Diesel engines often turn new oil black in seconds. The oil is doing it's job - cleaning. TRUST your new Fram Ultra to get the "damaging sized" particles out - - soot and stuff so small that colors the oil can't be effectively cleaned out unless you have a sub-micronic (bypass) filter somewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: lukejo
Scenario: 2009 Silverado 2500 6.0, 95k miles. Previous owner had long used PYB 5w30 from a quick change place at regular 3k-5k intervals (have receipts).
I wonder where the difference in our trucks lies... I bought mine (2008 F150 4.6) with a little more mileage than yours (118,000) and all it had was PYB 5W-20 (Have records) every 3k-5k. It still had the 5th wheel rails in the truck bed when I got it. My engine was (still is) absolutely spotless inside looking through the oil fill hole. I can't imagine how yours got dirty.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
As long as there is slight tinge of goldenish/amberish hue, it's serviceable.
This means NOTHING. Zero, Nada, Zip....... 100% false information.
 
The black is likely a colloidal suspension of carbon. Microscopic particles. Not something abrasive. Soft carbon from minute sludge in corners and along cool areas. It will come off in a while. The change in chemistry just started washing it off smile
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
The black is likely a colloidal suspension of carbon. Microscopic particles. Not something abrasive. Soft carbon from minute sludge in corners and along cool areas. It will come off in a while. The change in chemistry just started washing it off smile
That's a very eloquent description, Broc! thumbsup cheers
 
lukejo When I switched from M1 5w-20 to Amsoil SS 5w-20 ( approx 73k miles ago), one of the 1st things I noticed was how quickly the oil got dark. The oil is rated for 25k miles, so if you dump it at 8-10k miles your only using roughly 40% of its potential. I'm running a dual bypass setup and do regular uoa's and can tell you that the color makes zero difference in the oils viability.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: zeng
As long as there is slight tinge of goldenish/amberish hue, it's serviceable.
This means NOTHING. Zero, Nada, Zip....... 100% false information.
I believe Zeng is saying that the oil is not saturated with a colloidal suspension of microscopic carbon particles. Zeng, I think you have a reference for the blotter test. What is it again ?
 
I wouldn't run the very first oil change that long, especially if it's obviously doing some cleaning. Should have flushed the engine with some El Cheapo Lube price to putting the Amsoil in but I guess with 3-5k intervals, who woulda thunk its dirty inside there??? If it's pitch black after 5k miles, dump it and see what the next batch looks like in 5k. I'm willing to be the oil will look better the second time around.
 
Coal black in a gas engine. The oil might be fine, it might not, no UOA data then the oil condition is just a guess. Me knowing it was run on dino oil prior would change it. Odds are the current fill is cleaning up a mess left behind by something else. My question would be do I really want to keep that in there? No, so I'd change it. I would consider a UOA for guidance going forward. Next oci if the oil looks better, consider extending that interval. Or use the UOA data to determine how far you can go.
 
Oil Colour is important. As is smell. If it looks like a chocolate milkshake, chances are you have a problem (and/or a Focus RS...burn mad) Oil approaching 1 year + in the sump having seen daily service also tend to have a distinct musky colour in my experience. especially in DI engines petrol engines with EGR fitted. If it smells burnt you have a problem If it smells like fuel (petrol or diesel) you have a problem (and/or a ford with a DPF mad.) If you're concerned that the better cleaning oil may dislodge particulate matter that may pose a risk to the oil strainer in the sump, doing an oil flush once or twice with some cheap oil can be valuable. (pulled all manor of suff out from my 2.3T Saab 95's sump early in my ownership... crazy) Regards Jordan
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
The black is likely a colloidal suspension of carbon. Microscopic particles. Not something abrasive. Soft carbon from minute sludge in corners and along cool areas. It will come off in a while. The change in chemistry just started washing it off smile
Or it isn't. This is yet another job for Universal Answer Man : Ready? Nobody Knows. (BUT its probably OK)
 
Originally Posted By: JFAllen
Oil approaching 1 year + in the sump having seen daily service also tend to have a distinct musky colour in my experience.
I don't think "musky colour" is a thing. I think "musky smell" would be a thing, though I don't know what kind of thing it would be in motor oil.
 
Oil can only suspend so much "black stuff." I would drain it early. Try the 10k after that and monitor how quickly it gets dark. That way you can gauge if it is the additives in the oil turning black or the oil actually cleaning up the surface layer conventional oil put down.
 
My Jeep has always turned oil coal black. Nothing to worry about IMO. Meanwhile, her sludged Volvo or my previously abused truck can keep the oil amber colored during their entire OCI's. Different engines are different. smile
 
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