Does it really even matter what oil?

[Kurtatron]

I'm a car enthusiast. That's why I'm here. I want to provide the best protection for my vehicle. I've read a bunch of "debates" about which oil is best. But no matter how much time one spends searching the internet, there really isn't a solid answer.

So I guess all the reading overwhelmed me. All the fanboyism and used oil analysis drove me to buy Redline. Being a car enthusiast, I just gotta ask. If I ran this oil for extended miles (10k+), would the wear number really be significant compared to dino runs at 4-5k? Was I a victim of marketing? The Redline bottles definately chalk up their products. "Designed to provide the greatest protection... Lowest Coefficient of friction available."

I'm hoping to push my car to 300k and beyond. Metal wear protection is what keeps that dream free of oil burning nightmares.

I'm leaning towards the belief that the difference between modern oils is too minor to really alter the condition of high mileage cars. If the cars have recieved equal care, their wear should be about the same (assuming equal driving habits), regardless of oil brand. Is there really a reason to use RL vs. my years-long committment to M1? I'm thinking not. I'm starting to regret buying the stuff. Doesn't mixing a high moly oil with an oil that does not contain much actually accelerate iron wear until the moly layer has settled?

 

[DieselTech]

I have learned wear metals in UOA mean very little without a few to back them up. Depending on vehicle wear metals may appear high compared to other engines. Redline is a great product. It will provide a very clean engine, but in most cases it's overkill for a daily driver. As you can see in my sig it is in 2 of my vehicles one of which really does need it and the other I just like the way it runs with it in the sump.

So the real question is do you need a 10.00 a qt oil. What are you driving? Is it turbo'ed? what are your driving habits?

I get the product at a decent cost so really that the reason i run redline and my diesel is far from stock and runs very high pressure and temputures so redline has given me the best shearing results.

 

[bondomondo]

I owned an F-150 6 cyl. for over 19 years. Oil changes were always at 3,000 mile intervals, but the oil was always the cheapest 10w30 I could find. Brands mostly included KMart/PeP Boys/private labels.
After 179,000 miles, the engine burned no measurable oil between changes, and compression was always on spec. The engine and transmission were actually among the few parts that I didn't need to repair or replace during the truck's life.

 

[dsmith41]

Does it even matter what oil???

In most cases, no. If you are a car guy though, you may like to have the "best" available. Practically speaking, I do not believe there is a difference unless you have a high-performance turbo'ed sports car, a heavy hauling truck, or regularly operate in sub zero temps. There are some great conventional oils out there.

 

[Kurtatron]

Yeah, I was expecting to recieve responses such as yours. But my question concerning the RL conversion remains. Is it ok to switch from a moly deficient oil like M1 to Redline. I don't want to cause a metal wear surge from using this Redline sitting here in my room.

It really does seem that oil brand does not matter much. I guess that kind of relaxs the "Which oil!" confusion.

 

[DragRace]

Does it matter? IMO,no.

I've ran Mobil 1 synthetic for years,no issues.I've ran Amsoil for a year,no issues.I'm now running Redline,is it overkill? Yup,but thats the fun of being in the hobby of building / owning vehicles,always tryin something new, it might be car parts or oil,it in my blood.

 

[dsmith41]

Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
Is it ok to switch from a moly deficient oil like M1 to Redline. I don't want to cause a metal wear surge from using this Redline sitting here in my room.


Nah, you'll be fine.

 

[calvinnnnnnnnn]

depending on the application, yes

A civic can pretty much use anything with SL,SM,SN certifications etc

chances are a buggati will not run well with SuperTech conventional...

too many variables.

 

[znode]

For 99% of the population, the oil matters as much as the car.

Most people can probably get to work and back fine on a Yugo.

It doesn't mean it's useless to discuss cars. Or oil.

 

[Virtuoso]

According to Blackstone..who looks are more oil than I can ever dream of..

It dosen't matter. Just change it when you are supposed to.

 

[chet2]

i would buy M1 instead of RL at twice the price or even supertech to save even more just as long as you dont overtax engine...i use synthetic too but it isnt totally necessary

 

[getnpsi]

Most will agree that 3,000 changes on dyno should make most engines outlive the rest of the car. However not everyone started with a new vehicle, so prior histories are in question. I enjoy facts AND theories on cleaning and undoing someone else's damage MORE than longevity testimonials. With those we can assume if said vehicle has been in service 340 days out of the year and made 200,000-250,000mi without a hitch something has been done right along the way.

I'm also willing to infer someone who does neglect their car with a quart+ low SM oil going 9,000 on it isn't doing the same harm as a crankcase fill from 25 years ago.

 

[crinkles]

changing it at an appropriate time is mor eimportant than the spec.

yes, it matters what oil, it needs to meet the requirements of your car and owner's manual.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
But my question concerning the RL conversion remains. Is it ok to switch from a moly deficient oil like M1 to Redline. I don't want to cause a metal wear surge from using this Redline sitting here in my room.


It's not something to fear. It may not occur at all. You're not going to advance wear just because you see some wear metals jump up a tick or two for an OCI or two. I haven't really seen this occur in a long time. It's almost turning into a "true myth" (I SWEAR it happened!!)


Pardon me, but I have visions of you sitting in a room and, at some distance, have a stack of RL bottles that you're observing ..pondering if they're dangerous

 

[BuickGN]

The only oddball thing I noticed when I switched to Redline was consumption in the first 1,000 miles. My Tl has never consumed a measurable amount of oil. I heard the first time consumption stories on here and dismissed them as improper checking of the oil. Then it happened to me. My car is always checked cold and in the exact same spot. It lost half a quart of oil sometime between the fill and the first time I checked it which was around 1,000 miles. I added half a quart and it hasn't consumed in the following 2 OCIs.

I just recieved a PM from another TL owner who converted with the same issue. Consumption in the first few miles. I truly have no explanation for it and I wouldn't have believed it if it didn't happen to me.

As for the wear metals, it's a non issue.

 

[mechanicx]

I think if you are looking for maximum engine life than you're best to change the oil and filter reguarly even as often as the often scoffed at 3K miles/3months OCI than worry about the best oil. The things that wear out an engine over the long hual, fuel dilution, coolant and dirt contamination etc, are almost independent of the oil brand.

 

[Unearthed]

Plenty of discussions on here about the best oil values as well as best oils. Maybe you should search those out?

 

[KrisZ]

I think if you are planning to stick to severe OCIs as per manufacturer's recommendations, then ANY oil that meets the minimum specs will do. But if you are trying to extend OCI's or are modifying the engine for more horse power then synthetic oils may provide benefits.

 

[DieselTech]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
The only oddball thing I noticed when I switched to Redline was consumption in the first 1,000 miles. My Tl has never consumed a measurable amount of oil. I heard the first time consumption stories on here and dismissed them as improper checking of the oil. Then it happened to me. My car is always checked cold and in the exact same spot. It lost half a quart of oil sometime between the fill and the first time I checked it which was around 1,000 miles. I added half a quart and it hasn't consumed in the following 2 OCIs.

I just recieved a PM from another TL owner who converted with the same issue. Consumption in the first few miles. I truly have no explanation for it and I wouldn't have believed it if it didn't happen to me.

As for the wear metals, it's a non issue.


This is standard MO for Redline when first using it.

I have expierence high wear metals for the 1st OCI but then after they drop back to where I want them to be. I have spoken with redline indepth about this and it seems that this is normal for the first OCI and maybe even 2 OCI depending on the condition of the engine. Redline is a very good cleaner and will "scrub" Parts. This where these wear metals come from for the first couple OCI. I believe anyone that uses redline on a normal basis will concure on this.

 

[ZZman]

I think the oil makes a difference in many areas:

1. Length of OCI you want to do. ( I don't like 3,000 mile changes)
2. Protection in performance type use
3. Engine Cleanliness
4. Engine potential to operate at its peak efficiency

To me the $ 5-15.00 difference in oil cost over the 4-6 month OCI period was no big deal.

** But for most people it will not matter. They don't care to know how the vehicle works as long as it does. They will mostly follow the 3,000 mile schedule on their window sticker and not stress their vehicles too much.